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pinesol

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About pinesol

  • Birthday 12/19/1985

Personal Information

  • Location
    Richmond, VA
  • Car
    2010 LGT and 2002 s2000
  • Occupation
    IT

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  1. Fwiw your Nameless downpipe and GFB BOV live on in my car.
  2. I may be in for a set with v-band flange. Ideally there would be a v-band -> vf54 adapter, but that may make a stock-location j-pipe not fit.
  3. On my continual quest of self-enablement, I got Prova rear subframe collars from Black Hawk Japan. They are a common S2000 mod and I figured why not since I'll have the rear subframe off soon. I thought it was funny to see the writing on the grease in all Japanese with a "Made in USA" on it.
  4. 42072AJ070 Is the correct part number for my 10 LGT. I didn't dremel the car to get the retaining ring out, but rather just used a screwdriver and gave the car a mild pry against the retaining bracket. The metal just above the bracket bent pretty easily then it was easy to get out.
  5. I suppose I misspoke. I meant they do not have a customer support phone number. Their own wording here "RockAuto is a completely online company. We do not have a customer service phone number to provide assistance over the phone." In this case it means that they offer no pre-purchase fitment support on any products they offer for sale. If you buy something and it doesn't fit then they take things back no questions asked, though. All of this aside, I'm a big fan of RockAuto.
  6. You actually can't call Rockauto. There is no one to call - they don't even publish a number.
  7. That's a complicated question, haha. I started with the timing belt in Feb 2020 then it snowballed to ARP head studs, head work including cleaning, new guides and seals, pressure test and several new valves, downpipe (GTeaser's prerun Nameless), Verticooler, Koyo rad, upgraded swaybar, DW fuel pump, cyl 4 cooling mod, cdv delete, HDSS clutch, Optima battery with ALT-S booster, TSK3, Hardrace front engine mount, upgraded fork and pivot, and upgraded rear diff mount. I also replaced a huge amount of OE stuff: rusty hardware, new coils, a brand new VF54 turbo, the alternator, the starter, fuel filter, o2 sensors and a bunch of other suspect stuff. Ultimately I am glad that I went overboard and decided to do the head studs because it uncovered something wrong in cylinder 3, which was the impetus for some of that other work. Pictures included of what I found when I opened it up. https://imgur.com/TAWNuJP https://imgur.com/7x80Hu5 All of that obviously wouldn't have taken 2 years, but just prior to starting I minorly wrecked the car so motivation was low. On top of that, my S2000 and my wife's 14 Outback 3.6R continue to work basically flawlessly so I didn't have much sense of urgency. I recently found replacement driver's side doors and fender, so when it is all back together it should be looking pretty good again.
  8. I finally got my car running again after just shy of 2 years downtime. So many upgrades and maintenance things done during that time, but sheesh it has been a long time. Bit more work before I can drive it, though. https://imgur.com/a/SKUwJPE
  9. Sorry for asking in here, but I'm having trouble finding a definitive answer. I have read in multiple places that the spring included on the TSK3 TOB should be removed prior to install if using an upgraded clutch fork. Thoughts? Thanks!
  10. I had somewhat similar problems that I wasn't sure were problems prior to tearing my engine apart recently. My compression numbers were good, but DAM would drop occasionally; I didn't think too much of it. My plan was to pull the heads off to do head studs when I did my timing belt, but once I got the heads off it was clear that I had some actual issues. Burned valves, likely due to bad valve seals and just a ton of gross carbon/sand-like stuff on the piston. That said, the cylinder walls were in really good shape and it all cleaned off pretty easily, as you can see by the after picture.
  11. Finally, success! I basically felt like I was being too hard on it Friday. Then I caught a video on NASIOC of a guy using a meat cleaver and one insanely hard wack to separate it. You can get berated for basically no reason on NASIOC and the replies were mostly positive, so I decided to just really go to town on it using a set of screwdrivers as chisels and it eventually let loose, then it was just a matter of prying it and wiggling it the rest of the way. I may do a build thread. It'll take a long time probably, but I have GTeaser's pre-production Nameless DP, ARP head studs and gaskets, new timing set and water pump, STi t-stat, cyl 4 cooling mod, new cam and crank seals, front sway bar, TSK3 and Torque Solution clutch fork/pivot as well as a number of other things already stockpiled. I believe I'm also going to pick up an ACT HDSS, IAG AOS, and aluminum rad while it is down.... depending on how long the work takes (and thus how much money I have time to accrue). Thanks!
  12. I do have a load leveler, but haven't been able to get it to the point where it is helping since it is so stuck to the transmission. It's weird. I've separated engines from transmissions before, but have never had this much trouble. I gave up for the day but will get back to it tomorrow hopefully.
  13. Hi Everyone, I am in the midst of removing the engine for timing belt replacement, head studs, new downpipe, new seals, and a bunch of other things. I'm to the point where everything is disconnected, the turbo/manifold and exhaust are off, and all bellhousing bolts are removed, with the exception of the 2 nuts which are loose but still there so it doesn't fall when it inevitably lets loose. All of that said, I straight up can not get it to separate. I've tried cranking on it with a pry bar against the subframe near the oil pan, hitting the bellhousing, shaking the engine vigorously back and forward and side to side, lifting up and down to varying degrees, and hammering some tools between the engine and trans at the top. All to no avail. Anyone have any other suggestions? How high should I be lifting this thing to give myself the best chances? I think I'll probably pick up a set of varying thickness chisels left to my own devices and see if they'll hammer in easier than the previous tools I was trying to use. Thanks!
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