Scrambles

Just did this on my 2005 LGT since I got my first CEL last week when the weather dipped into the low 50s. Took about 4 hours, really not bad at all, could probably do it in 2.5 or so next time. The only pain in the ass access point was the rear inside bolt on the passenger side manifold; to get it you need to unbolt the wiring harness plastic cover behind the manifold and wedge something in there to hold it away, then nudge aside a little hose that sits directly over the bolt. Dental pick isn't expressly required but it really is the perfect tool for the job - get one with a single oblique angle, not with a 90° bend. The gasket access point is the little tab that sticks out, all of which I managed to shear off during removal but jamming a fine square-headed screwdriver into the slot let me get it started and then sliding the pick around got the rest out. New gaskets were about twice as thick as the old ones. I used my cheap hand vacuum pump to remove the coolant from the reservoir before disconnecting but still got coolant everywhere. We'll see if it solves the winter CELs or makes it idle smoother. It was a good thing to do regardless as it didn't look like the old gaskets were forming much of a seal anymore.

An external dock would have the exact same issue, seeing as it's just a different form factor for the same signal path. I don't know if my ipod is having a weird hardware problem (possible given its age), but given that I've never had any issues with anything else I've used with it, I'm guessing it has to do with the aux board. However, it's kind of a moot issue at this point, since the deficiency has prompted me to get an SD -> microSD ribbon cable and 256GB SDXC card so that I can use my phone for music and finally ditch the ipod. I just got an HTC One M8 which puts out surprisingly good audio from the headphone jack, so problem solved. For the record, there is a significant difference in sound quality between the ipod headphone jack and line-out. The headphone pre-amp (at least every ipod up to the classic, haven't bothered with newer ones) is awful. Letting the head unit's amp deal with it results in a very noticeably fuller and clearer sound. Letting my little portable FiiO amp deal with it has been noticeably better again.

Alright, I've narrowed it down to the line output on my ipod classic (dock connector - > 3.5mm cable). Nothing else in the chain causes the audio to cut out, and it only happens with the ipod once per morning. I'm guessing that it has something to do with that port also able to transfer power and maybe shorting something? Is there any way to ground a 3.5mm cable? It's pretty annoying since the line out audio quality is so much better than the headphone jack's. Any ideas Sebastien?

It'll actually cut out the radio audio even when I have the switch set to bypass, and won't transmit any audio regardless of switch position until I restart the engine. I'll try it with the DAC out of the system for a few days and see what happens.

No worries about the email! I'm going from ipod to battery-powered DAC to head unit. It cuts out without having anything plugged into 12V. It's also not consistent - it didn't do it this morning. It's been doing this since day 1, although again inconsistently and only on cold starts in cold temps (seemingly). If you think the source could be an issue, I will do some more trial and error - I'm trying to move away from the ipod anyway because the interface and DAC is trash. I really appreciate the help, I started school as an electrical engineer and let's just say it wasn't for me

I sent an email to Sebastian about this a couple weeks ago but haven't heard back yet, so I'll try here. The unit works great. However, I'm having one really annoying issue and I'm wondering if anyone else ran into it: I get into the car in the morning, turn on the engine and test the switch positions - all work correctly, FM audio comes through when the switch is off or auto, cuts out when switch is on. However, as soon as I plug the audio cable into my ipod, the audio goes silent - I can't hear anything from any mode or switch position. I have to shut off the engine and restart it, after which everything works fine. This only seems to happen in the morning, ie after the car has been sitting for a long time and it's cold outside. What the heck is going on? Is this some sort of a grounding issue?

I've got a set of Megan Racing coilovers (got em used for a song). I was running them with a 1/4" of preload and it was pretty uncomfortable, so this weekend I adjusted them back to zero and it's great. I'd recommend something without pillowball front mounts, as these roads make me wish the Megans used some sort of energy-absorbing top hats. I would seriously avoid going for any sort of hardcore autox coilovers if you ever drive on 440 or 40 (... or downtown, or by the airport, or anywhere really). edit: my lower back is fucked from rowing crew for 7 years so YMMV, but my advice stands.

Thanks for the offer, but I did it on saturday with a buddy. Took about 6 hours to get the things on, as neither of us had much relevant experience and we had to go out and get a shorter socket for the rear lower bolts because goddamn those things are on there tight. They really wakes up the car though, no more squatting or dipping or rolling or any drama whatsoever. This weekend I get to try my hand at corner balancing, hooray!

No idea how I missed this thread. That's got all the torque specs and everything, I think I'm doing the install tomorrow with a buddy. My tires and front pads are at about 5%, and I'm doing those too. It will be a whole new car, and I am excited as hell. It's just hilarious how well it still handles, even in the rain, with no tread on the tires.

The torque specs would help a lot, thanks dude. There is another black wagon that consistently drives 15 over on the highway, I see it all the time on my way to work in Cary; it's got a green specialty license plate. It passed me this morning, I was all ready to flash some sort of brotherly hand signal but I don't think the favor would have been returned. I was however down at crossroads that time on friday though.

I figure I can get them on the car easily enough, but I just don't know specifics, ie torque specifications for the suspension bolts, good default settings for my particular coilovers on the wagon, or even how to adjust them - I literally have zero documentation on any of it. I have searched a shitload on the forums and the MR's seem to be popular, but I feel like I need a manual or something. sgeorge: I live in a damn townhouse right now, and I bet the HA covenant has some language about not working on cars in the lot. I've got a buddy with a "garage" (driveway and a lot of tools/equipment) but no knowledge of coilovers or my car.

Hell, that may have been me. The P.O. threw away all badges except the 'GT', so that would be a dead giveaway. I did indeed purchase the car from these forums, and it is glorious (still stage 1 though, sorry guys). Speaking of which, I've got some Megan coilovers sitting in a box, ready for install. I want to do it myself because I am a mechanical engineer and I need to know how it all goes together. The problem is that I only theoretically know how it goes together, and I especially don't know how the hell to adjust them properly. I'm in Raleigh, near Umstead park - anyone in the triangle area down for helping a brutha out? I have no relevant tools (except the adjustment wrenches) , but will pay in cash and/or beer and/or whatever else. edit: 05LGTLtd - you are my car- AND dog-buddy, hooray