Fastball

Agreed, RP is garbage! Bad in the bike world, too. They actually got sued a few years back for making false claims about their oil and judge made them take all the claims off any/all literature. They got called out by BP and couldn't back up ANY of their claims.

I wouldn't. That's meant for racing only and does not have the same formula that would give you the big mileage protection on a daily driver. I changed my Amsoil 5w30 and and EAO filter for the second time in 9 months not 1 hour ago with 13,440 miles on that last oil change. A little dark, but it smelled and felt fine. NO doubt I could've just changed the filter, topped it off and have been good for another 10K. It cost me $40.15 today and my time of 25 minutes including clean up. Now with that said...... Dude!!! What are you smokin'?? If anything a daily driver is where it would save you money to run the Amsoil!! I drive over 70 miles a day to and from work, sometimes 6 days a week. With regular oil I would be changing my oil every 6 weeks!! Let's see every 6 weeks for a year, (52 weeks), that's over 8 and a half oil changes a year. What's 5 qts of Rotella run now days? And a decent filter?? Can you do it all for under $20 and oil change? Now just for giggles, round down and times all that by the 8 times a year of oil changes. I would be paying WELL over twice as much as what I'm paying for my Amsoil and you just admitted it's a better oil. Put down the crack pipe! I offered my opinion for a previous poster, not you sunshine. As stated, I have done a lot of research on the subject of oil and I've been changing my own oil for over 30yrs. Go ahead spend that hard earned coin on whatever you wish to run in that crank case. Treat 'em how you feel about 'em is what I say.

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2752.pdf When it comes to the sheared, (permanent), viscosity of an oil, I don't think a turbo really matters. Granted in the case of the graph in the above literature, the fuel dilution does not mean squat for the application of a Subie either, but look at the drop in initial viscosity and the sheared. I collect vintage Honda motorcycles and some of the early V4's had some serious oiling problems. I have done ALOT of research on oil and filters for my bikes. It just carries over into anything I put oil in and my Subie doesn't get cheated out of the best I can find, anymore than my bikes will.

I'm not a big fan of Rotella once I saw how quickly that stuff can break down. I used it for a couple of seasons in my V65 Magna. It ran cooler and shifted great, but then saw some in depth testing on the Rotella. Never touched that stuff again!

Well I'm still in the clear for 25K. Mine's not a turbo. Thanks for the clarification by the way! Just as well. I wouldn't dare run a turbo on that long of an oil change. My first Subie was an '87 XT Turbo and I was religious about 3K dino oil changes. My OEM turbo lasted to around 160K. Dealer said it was one of the longest they had ever seen last that long.

It gets rid of a lot of crap in the engine that can be caused by many miles of garbage dino oil. I used the engine/trans flush on my aunt's Forrester when I switched it over to Amsoil, after 65K of dino oil. She went home and called me the next day wanting to know what I did to her car. Thinking something was wrong, she quickly added the thing took off like 10 pissed off gorillas when she got on the interstate. She said it had never ran that well since she had owned it. Now I don't know what it could've been, but I personally noticed my Taurus SHO ran a heck of a lot cooler after I did the same flush on it and it had already been on Amsoil for 2 seasons before the flush. I always recommend doing the flush when switching to your first change of Amsoil. Yeah, I wouldn't like the idea of letting the dealer do it myself. However if you do try and do it yourself, it can be a bit messy when you do the flush. It comes out like hot water, not oil and it gushes out! BTW, I double checked my mileage today and I have over 13K on this oil change, not the almost 12K I mentioned above. The EAO filter is recommended for up to 15K, but the oil is covered to 25K. Most I have ever put on one change was over 17K on my wife's Outback sedan, (170K and still purrs like a kitten). As I said, I"m going to change it again in my Legacy in the next couple of weeks, just for piece of mind. Besides I just ordered a Fumoto drain valve and gotta get that installed.

I run Amsoil in everything I own and couldn't wait to run out the dino oil that was in my Legacy after I brought her home. As soon as I could I used the Amsoil engine flush and then proceded to fill with 5w30 Signature Series. Man,... that makes a motor quiet! I drive 73 miles a day round trip from work and she now has about 12K on this oil change. Just for piece of mind I'll change it again before winter really hits, although the oil still looks and smells fine.