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rubberman

I Donated
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  • Location
    Greenville, SC
  • Car
    BSM 05 LGT Wagon 5EAT Stage 2.5
  • Interests
    Kayaking, having a fast Subie, guitars, sportbikes.
  • Occupation
    Mechanical Engineer - Tire Designer

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  • Homepage
    http://www.southeastgradient.com
  • MSN
    gwyow@yahoo.com

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  1. We would still need the actual Subaru data files that are located on the CD, that link is just a flashing interface / program if I'm not mistaken. Edit - finally got it to download (169mb file), you were right & good find! I can't seem to open the flashwrite / PAK File List of N.America for SSM-3.mdb file or I would try to dump some of the info to an excel file (still not sure if TCU data is included or not).
  2. I found the following link which mentions the software for reflashing the ECU & TCU (SAE J2534 program), seems there's a Subaru cd which can be purchased for $75 with the files on cdrom (includes ECU & TCU info). Straight from the link below: "It seems like it should be possible to trace that program's calls to the J2534 API and capture the data being sent to the ECU. This data should include the kernel." http://forums.openecu.org/viewtopic.php?t=2486 Could this potentially help in sniffing out the TCU interface / parameters? If we had a contact at a Subie dealer maybe we could get someone to burn a copy of one of the CD's even? I found another site showing how someone hacked the SVX TCU & all of the applicable data they were able to find (pretty interesting reading if you are curious about the TCU software). http://www.alcyone.org.uk/ssm/tcureverse.html
  3. Any updates on this project? I saw the nasioc thread update on the successful front LSD install, so does this mean that you went ahead with the drum/piston mods to change the number of clutch pack frictions / steels?
  4. Excellent progress ClimberD! I know that you are busy, but any chance of getting some pictures of the various assemblies, clutch plate burn patterns, and front brake component area? Maybe with some addtl eyes reviewing that front brake setup we can come up with some ideas for improvements... I don't know much about the clutch plate wear or burn patterns, but maybe we can figure out the nature/mechanism of the excessive heat (ie too high torque load & lots of slip or is it a lack of fluid coverage / temp control, or maybe even if the burn patterns are irregular in shape could it actually begin to chatter due to deflection / torquing of the assy?) Also, have you come across any info on various friction plate materials? Just wondered since if stage 3 torque has overloaded the stock frictions then maybe there's a way to optimize with a slightly more aggressive friction material? If it comes down to manpower for research, then myself and others I'm sure would be glad to help. With some details on those steel & friction plates, I can make some calls to try and dig up some info directly from the mfg (or any component for that matter).
  5. ClimberD - I agree about the economics making this a long shot... the number of folks both interested in this & willing to donate $ is a big question. So how do we identify the demand, are we talking 20, 30, or more people willing to donate (perhaps a poll thread to get a rough idea)? Assuming it isn't interesting for Cobb business-wise, then who else might be a candidate that funding would motivate? I saw over on nasioc that Grimmspeed was asking about potential interest in the Forester 4EAT tuning, maybe this is an opportunity? I'm not trying to be a pita with all the questions, I'm just genuinely interested in seeing a solution. My future power upgrade plans are on hold pending this final TCU piece of the 5EAT upgrade puzzle. Since the IPT build fulfills the mech upgrade part...a combination of the TCU tuning and that could really open new doors for the 5EAT. I'm a mechanical, so I don't play with electricity (isht that is invisible & bites is off limits) & I have zero programming expertise so this is just a hunch regarding TCU complexity (# of diff units to hack). There would be TCU unit differences, but logically there's probably majority similarities with subtle changes in the latter year models? I'm already asking questions to various colleagues to see if anyone has contacts at an OEM level, i.e. Nissan, etc. since my company doesn't actively develop products for Subaru at the moment.
  6. What's the odds of asking Cobb Tuning about working on this if we are able to take up donations and provide some kickstart funding? Like others, it would be worth pitching in $200 to me to get TCU tuning capability (if it was on an AP or similar interface that would be even better). Does anyone have any contacts at Cobb, ie not just for a generic email request but someone that would at least listen to the proposal? In the end, I'm open to any effective tuning setup.
  7. Good thread ClimberD! This could give us the opportunity to collectively pool all of the tech/repair info that's out there on the JATCO RE5R05A trans. I've found a few links that provide a little more tech info (parts, function, etc): Trans Spring Compressor tool (seems to be something like this...): http://store.boxwrench.net/KD-Tool-2398-Automatic-Transmission-Universal-Clutch-Spring-Compressor-Transmission-Rebuilding-DVD_p_84.html Titan forums (several pdf's with some useful part info & a few recommendations from a trans shop for what to look/watchout for, adjust, etc: http://www.clubtitan.org/forums/showthread.php?t=30192 Solenoid Info: http://www.sonnax.com/system/pdfs/145/original/TASC-TIP-12-09.pdf?1289926276 Replacement solenoids, Repair manual (claims full teardown/rebuild instructions): http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/RE5R05A.html Parts: http://www.automaticchoice.com/Catalogue/re5r05a.pdf
  8. Any FMIC on Subies would be partially blocked by the bumper: Perrin, AVO, XO2, etc and they all work fine (of course if there was no blockage at all they could perform even better). Unless I'm misunderstanding what you are referring to by being blocked, it should work fine.
  9. Great pictures. Your wagon looks awesome with those wheels and Brembo's! This is exactly what I'd like to add to mine.
  10. I just did a quick google search and found the following site: http://www.customlightz.com/?p=p_26&sName=projectors They offer the projectors & lenses, are these the parts that you needed? This mod looks pretty interesting.
  11. SeeeeYa just directed me to this thread, I just posted earlier today with these same issues. Here's the link to my thread in the Trans forum in case someone uses different search terms (I searched and never found anything). http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2171404#post2171404 I definitely want to resolve this issue if at all possible - subscribe for a solution!
  12. I need to see some pics of a road trip somebody went on in an 05 5EAT. I hear there are some great valve body pictures at some fancy hotel. Update - nevermind, found the trip summary.
  13. I removed the radiator just to give me more room. I have heard of people placing a piece of cardboard against the radiator if left in place to protect the fins while you work. To break the crank bolt loose, I put a couple large screwdrivers in the access hole for the flywheel / trans case on the top of the motor. Those screwdrivers held the motor/trans in place nicely so that I could break loose the crank bolt. Before I pulled the tensioner pin, I actually also loosened the spark plugs and put the crank bolt back in place so that I could slowly rotate the crank and double check that nothing was binding up, ie if the cams were not aligned correctly a valve could come into contact with the piston. It's an easy check and you can also see the timing marks on the cams aligning correctly while doing this. Just some alternative methods, whatever works for you. Just be careful and take your time when double-checking your work.
  14. I haven't done this job on an 05 motor before, but I have done it on a SOHC '00 Outback and it was exactly like what you listed. You might want to go ahead and get a new tensioner, but it can be reused by using a press to recompress it for reinstallation. I have heard that the cams will want to move slightly once the timing belt tension is relieved (because of valve spring pressure). It's just re-aligning them properly when putting the belt back on and being sure they didn't slip a tooth when getting the tensioner back in. I think that there are some tools for locking the cams in place to prevent this, but not absolutely needed. Again, just some basic familiarity with Subie motors on my part. I replaced the head gaskets and did all the other work at the same time. Also remember that you have a fine opportunity to replace some problematic seals on Subie motors at the same time: valve cover seals, oil pump gasket/o-ring, new water pump, thermostat, belts/hoses if needed. You can also check the cam seals as well to see if they are seeping any oil. I used a Haynes manual and it detailed every step, Subaru service manual was ok as a reference. I did not need a lift or jack to do that job, once I drained/pulled the radiator I had plenty of room to get to everything. Not a bad job with some reading beforehand. I took a lot of pictures of the motor before and during disassembly so that I could get everything back together easy. It helped having those pics for the intake/hoses reinstall and belts.
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