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bigstrusk

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  • Location
    CT
  • Car
    '11 2.5i Premium SPW
  • Occupation
    '%_Engineer'

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  1. Theorizing here: HG internal leak means compression should be low somewhere right (on my list to verify). That would be misfires, correct, but anything else? Would that also mean a richer AFR? And then by extension, I would *not* expect more knocking, measured by FLKC, low IAM, LV,.. because those are lean indicators? I'm absolutely not an expert on how these ECUs behave... this is where I need help.
  2. I believe I do (MY11) and unfortunately I am not, verified by combustion leak test and bouts of overheating. Dealer quotes are 3500+, not including any extras or machining. Indy/specialists around me are ~3000 including extras and machining. $USD I am mechanically and technically competent enough to do the job myself. However, family, work, and the other 2 car projects I've got mean I've gotta outsource this one because of time.
  3. Thanks for the reply! I'm not looking to tune the engine really, just what ECU params would show a worsening HG. Ex) would I see cyl roughness increase? Misfire codes? Will knock or IAM get increasingly worse? Wasn't sure if anyone out there had any experience on what typically goes wrong first. All routine maintenance and troubleshooting has been done. Changed TB, water pump, and coolant 20k ago, which was ahead of schedule. I'd more recently pressure tested the system as well; maybe I'll static test it again for hahas, but pretty sure that since it's an internal leak, a running test would spike up.
  4. I've recently diagnosed a bad head gasket on my 2011 2.5i via CO2 test of the cooling system, likely an internal failure. I know the HG will need to eventually be replaced. I'm getting quotes now, but I need to wait a while to cover the $. At the moment, the system can still regulate itself provided the coolant is full, with coolant temps averaging 190 and max at 215 (hot day idling after a drive). I believe the "warning" point is ~230 and "uh oh" point is ~240. I know to keep my eyes out for the physical signs like white exhaust smoke, mixed fluids, and external leaks (which I have none of atm). I have my Tactrix hooked up to BtSsm so can monitor most things ECU-related. I've tuned my throttle but haven't yet learned the guts of engine tuning. What are the important parameters and thresholds to pay attention to that would indicate the problem is getting worse?
  5. Enablers be enablin. Just ordered. Thx again for the tip!
  6. Did you need any of the accessories? I've been getting sick of constantly changing blown low beams... Half off price is tempting.
  7. Checking back in. Still hasn't overheated since. Finally got around to testing stuff with the Mityvac. Cap holds up to and releases at 15psi. Static pressure is consistent at 18psi. Dynamic test showed no immediate jumps or pressure bouncing, stays consistent at 18psi. Factory specs are 14-18, with 12 being service limit. No signs of coolant in fluids. No seeps or leaks I've ever noticed. Fans both kick on with AC. Only thing I can think of is that it wasn't filled or burped properly when the water pump/TB was changed. The parts kit on the service invoice shows a thermostat as well. Is another flush and refill even worth it at this point? I have some SOA conditioner to throw in regardless. Should I just top off and monitor? So frustrating...
  8. I was thinking about that too re: the coolant. A local shop did the job so I doubt they used OEM fluid and/or additive. If I don't find anything odd elsewhere I'll likely change that, maybe with some Water-Wetter -type enhancer. TY for the AC tip. I was also considering flashing the ECU w/ a lowered fan engagement threshold, but that'll be a last resort.
  9. Thx for the reply, DrD123. I'll start with the pressure/cap. Below tester looks well-received and price is right. I'd like to check the fans as next step. Will have to think about how to jump em and test relays. I've been around Subarus long enough to be leery of HG, but I'd still be quite disappointed if that was it. 115k of strong maintenance and light usage ('til now). Mityvac MV4560 Automotive Radiator/Cooling System Pressure Test Kit, Contains Adapters to Test Most U.S. and Asian Cars, Light Trucks and European Vehicles https://a.co/d/ibHxvGA
  10. My brother was driving my car at an LRP HPDE event the other day. At the end of the 1st 20-min session pulling into the paddock, the temp light went on and coolant had blown out of I believe the top of the overflow. Coolant in there was boiling. Didn't overflow again (nor light) for the other sessions but could hear it reaching high pressure with whistling. After each session, the overflow was at or near the top. Certainly was pressure in the rad. No engine mods on the car. Water pump replaced 15k ago (with TB). Unsure if thermo and coolant were reused or not then. Coolant color is slightly dirty green. Admittedly, it WAS 90°+ that day and it was HPDE, so harsh conditions for sure. That being said, my bro was not pushing the car as hard as I would have been (thankfully I suppose). I'm wondering what to do about this, if anything. I DO plan to do more HPDE. Never had a cooling problem prior, though never ran the car that hard. What are your thoughts?
  11. I had a mystery shake sporadically at highway speeds, off and on (more severe when on) braking. Turns out a pad's guide tabs & shim had built up so much rust and brake dust, that the pad would stick partially engaged in the bracket. Took em out, filed things down and touched up paint, shake-be-gone.
  12. Uhg, enabler. Now I have +1 component added for a future clutch job.
  13. I installed this on my 2011 2.5i 24222-CLU-CL https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/clutch-lines/goo-24222-clu-cl-goodridge-stainless-steel-coated-clutch-line Between the delete, above, and fresh fluid.. really made the pedal feel more direct.
  14. I 2nd that. Same designs. May be different bushings durometer, but the ones on got felt very solid
  15. The rear LCAs were a simple install. I'd recommend them. I just went with the RockAuto brand (ultra power) as they look exactly like Moog pieces and almost had the same part number. Oem design -style. $26 each vs. $89 each, but even the latter isn't a bad price. Both include an offset bushing you can put in there for additional toe adjustment, but those are the ones that require a press if I am not mistaken. I skipped those.
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