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brokentv

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About brokentv

  • Birthday 03/03/1985

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  • Location
    South West
  • Car
    2013 legacy 2.5i

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  1. Yeah the mechanic that cecked my car said he replaced a number of used cvts and some of them only lasted like 6 months. But if you can find an independent mechanic some can swap it for much lower than dealer cost.
  2. Interesting I'll call subaru and see if my cvt is covered since my cars mileage is similar. That would be nice if your cars still covered. It does sound too good to be true but no harm in getting to the bottom of it
  3. I took it to a mechanic and they thought it was a wheel bearing at first but put it on a lift and said the transmission is what is making the bad noises. I guess I've learned that getting it on a lift and running it is recommended, if you're having similar issues this will help pinpoint the issue being that remanufactured tranny is $6k. Also I think changing the tranny fluid at good intervals like every 25,000 at least will keep it healthy for anyone who's car is still lower miles. I'm suspicious that these cvts weak point is hot climite and mix that with old fluid they degrade and I think that's where i messed up.
  4. I've always had matching tires and rotated them consistantly and they wear evenly. Yeah I'll have to have a professional check it out before I make any big decisions the transmission does still work well, soiit could be a wheel bearing still.
  5. The sound is reminiscent of a really bad wheel bearing drone mixed with a modulating whine that goes from low to high pitch depending on rpm and speed. At slow speeds there will be a sort of flapping sound kind of like if driving on a flat tire. There's also a bit of a diesel engine machine or tractor sound there too. It will sound bad enough where it seems like the cars going to just give out. I thought maybe wheel bearings but there is absolutely no play in those also my tires are good. I've though about the differential but I don't think it would make that strange modulating sound
  6. That makes sense. There really not much info out there on the process but the one video I found. The replacement cvt the guy used turned out to be a dud with the same issue so he was back to square one and I'm not about to go through that. Its too bad they're making cars like this now and they don't offer at least an auto, let alone manual. These newer legacy's would be amazing with a manual trans option since the FB engine has been dependable for me it still runs as smooth as the day I got it aside from the cvt
  7. Yeah that's what I'm thinking is just getting a different car. The problem is aside from the trans I like this car. I've swapped a legacy engine before so I was thinking technically it can't be a ton harder but I have a feeling there's some extra bs required replacing a cvt. My cars at 160,000
  8. I believe my cvt is going out. It works still but is making some pretty ugly noises. I was wondering if replacing a cvt is similar to replacing an auto trans? Or if there is more involved that could be more trouble than it's worth. I understand refilling the cvt fluid is more involved than a regular auto, but I think I heard something about having to get it reprogrammed or something also. Also would it be easier to pull the engine and trans thought the engine bay, or just pull the trans through bottom of car.
  9. I have the same model with some minor leaking and after researching it looks like the cam carriers are known to leak, bit Its wierd they say the head gasket leaks. Supposedly they worked out the head gasket on this engine so it doesn't go bad as easily as the ej engines. I'd definitely recommend locating a good independent shop. My car is currently at a dealer for an unrelated issue and they did give me a loaner which is cool but it's kind of been a nightmare experience. They tend to be more worried about their profits. Also do call soa they might help especially since your car is lower milage
  10. I was curious if anyone else has experienced the issue where the key gets stuck in the ignition where it won't rotate past the last click to remove the key. Car starts and drive fine otherwise it just keeps the key sometimes. I've been dealing with this for a couple months and took it to the dealer where they replaced the shift assembly but issue remains. I've taken it back 3 time where they replaced the shift assembly again but same issue. Then took it back again lol and they didn't experience the issue since It's one of those intermittent issues and they won't bother when they can't experience the issue It's weird because when it lets you remove the key it works great and doesn't indicate a failing ignition assembly but just sometimes keeps the key. I've tried all kinds of techniques to make sure I'm removing the key correctly but something else is going on. I was curious if anyone has gone through this or has any tips to try? Im wondering if maybe a ground is causing this but just can't tell
  11. I ended up getting the brake fluid flushed and it seemed to fix this issue .
  12. It's actually a 2013 legacy 2.5 sedan with cvt. I forgot to update my profile
  13. That's aawesome. I ended up getting a 2013 legacy and for road trips it is fantastic. Very comfortable seats and it cruises at free way speeds very nicely. At 150000 not head gasket issues either. Supposedly the fb engine doesn't have them. Although I like the cvt the noises it makes is questionable lol I'm afraid it may end up being this cars demise but we'll see
  14. I've noticed this issue/flaw that I think is related to the abs module and was curious if anyone has experienced it or knows the fix to this. Basically when youre braking at higher speed, not stomping the brake but getting on it, while getting off the freeway for example and hit a decent bump while braking. In my car the pedal goes soft like if abs briefly kicked in. The issue is that the pedal stays soft. At first it would stay soft then return to normal after stopping the car and turning it off then on again. But it's at the point where the pedal is now always soft. The brakes work fine and abs works still but the pedal remains soft. Since this issue happened I had the Subaru dealer flush the brake fluid so there should be no air in the system or contaminated fluid but the issue remains. I read on some other car forums people experiencing this and they said intentionally activating abs on a dirt road a few time can fix this but that didn't work either. From what I've researched it sounds like a stick opened valve or something in the abs module. I was curious if anyone experienced this? and also how hard it is to replace a abs module like if there is any vin mismatch issues
  15. I have 106000 on my 2013 and it's been great. I've only owened the car for about 10,000 miles, but havent noticed anything questionable about it the transmission. I've been impressed . And im one of those people who's all about standard transmissions. Hopefully it lasts and lives up to the idea of not really needing service
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