I did the version 9; basically like the version 7. If you can get away with running a 16-bit ECU, then you can keep the original cam, but will need a regular cable throttle. If you want to use your stock 32-bit ECU/DBW, then yes, you need to swap at least the intake cams and use the original LGT cam sensors. The 16-bit cams use "teeth" trigger and a VR sensor, while the 32-bit cams use slots and a hall-sensor. The cam timing teeth are also different(I know this because I tried using a signal converter, which didn't work).
There's several work-arounds regarding the driver's side cam sensor. I've seen slotting out the original bore(do this while when changing out the cam) and also tilting the sensor to read the marks. I used a smaller-diameter "pencil" hall sensor and just mounted it off-set in the bore, and use some spacers and rubber washers to help seal the bore. On the passenger side, you can just slot-out the hole on the sensor itself.