Impatient

Whiteline has a similar offering, though SuperPro “sale price” is better than Whiteline’s “sale price.” Whiteline wa456L (and wa456R). which of the three (seven) would you choose? 1 Mevotech CMS8028x 2) Whiteline WA456x 3) SuperPro trc1058 (pair) 4) loaded OEM (Subaru) with the noodle bushings 5) OEM or Moog, but press out the rear noodles, and replace with 20204AG011 6) Moog RK622030 and -31 7) Beck Arnley (a Moog company???) alum 18775-05550579 picture looks like Mevotech, but rear bushing more like OEM (w/voids) ??? that’s enough options, not sure if any are perfect

It’s probably time for new FCA rear bushings, and who knows what else. One (trusted Subaru-specific) shop suggests steel Moog, another (trusted, but non-specific to Subaru) the steel but with SuperPro bushings….currently on sale. I DO NOT WANT MORE NVH!!! That said, maybe I already have the NVH, as I have 20204AG011 WRX bushings instead of 20204ag01b Outback bushings in stock OBXT FCA’s. this is on an Outback XT sitting at about stock spec-B height or maybe a smidge higher, with the Bilstein B6 spec-B upgrade struts, and the BTS5056 JDM springs. I don’t want to go back to noodle bushings either. So wondering if a preloaded LGT FCA or the Mevotech would be the happy medium. So, similar to original question, are all FCA’s the same geometry ( Mevotech, stock LGT, and stock Outback)?

My 07 has a dome light over the rear seats….which doesn’t work except when I take it apart…I get it to work, then when putting things back together, it quits again. Apparently we both have wagons. My rear hatch also has a rear dome light. The manual switch works, but not the “auto” setting where opening the hatch would trigger it. and yes, it would be great if some light in front would also come on when doors are opened. I believed that was addressed later on (08 or 09?), but would require some sort of hack to get to work on 07 or prior. I used to have an 09, with several “improvements.” It was a vanilla OB, but I was surprised at what I lost trading it in on an 07 XT.

Don’t know how I missed this thread initially, but finally found it. My car was at the dealer to get the airbag recall taken care of. I dithered for months not wanting them touching it, but finally did. Of course they had a $4000 laundry list of things I should take care of, besides the airbag(free). So in a way, they did me a favor, pointing me to a couple issues, though I won’t get into my gripes with the dash (airbag) service itself. Anyway, they said I needed a new PS pump ($1250). Indeed, it was pretty gunked up, and I wasn’t paying attention since it’s hidden under the turbo’s engine cover. So cleaned it up, and sure enough, there was a slight leak around the hose elbow on the top. It was so slight that driving it around a little produced no new wetness. But sitting overnight did. Coldness??? This is the low pressure side. So put my shade tree mechanic’s pants on and splurged on a new o-ring from the dealer. New=red (orange), old= black. New might be slightly thicker, but old did not look decayed. It’s possible the old is only 40k miles old, since that’s when timing belt, water pump, pulleys were replaced. 136k on car now. Made a slight mess, but had stuffed some plastic bags over the belts and pulleys. I had twisted the hose to where it drained into a pasta sauce jar (cleaned of course) that could nestle between the radiator and the passenger fender, down low. Eventually, the reservoir was drained. But I did not attempt Deer Killer’s flush. The fluid looked brand new, clean as a whistle, but frankly, I can’t remember having it flushed by a shop...maybe awhile back, or when the timing belt was serviced...or maybe 70k miles ago??? In the last 2-3 yrs I’ve had to top off the reservoir to counteract the leak, though I didn’t know where it was coming from. All in all, I had used maybe 1/4-1/3 qt of. valvoline MaxLife synthetic ATF. Today, I tried putting the o-ring into the pump recess first, but ended up putting it on the elbow (slightly, not snugged), then inserting the elbow into the pump body, then clinching down. Filled up the reservoir to the Max cold line, then went for a couple figure eights at steering lock in a nearby parking lot. Felt fabulous, but then it only felt bad before when it would get low (3-4 times over last 2-3 years, as mentioned above). I will try to keep an eye out for further issues, but at the moment, I feel like I saved $1248. Thanks to you LegacyGT guys (or girls)!!!!!!

Castrol Euro 0w30 and 0w40 are waay different from a domestic RC 0w30. I’m not sure they are “perfect” but they have v. good HTHS and higher viscosities at 40c and 100c than any “normal” 5w30, let alone any “normal 0w30 RC oils. Allegedly they are still P4, or more P4 than most others. M1 0w40 is well-regarded for our engines and I assume the Pennzoil Euro platinum 5w30 and Euro 0w40 are good as well. P4 may be a thing of the past though as mfgr’s have figured out how to get P3’s to do quite well. I’ve bought some Pennzoil GTL Platinum Ultra for my Ford Ecoboost turbo van, and could consider it for the Subaru, when I run out of Euro Castrol. I don’t race or cross.

I read much of this and totally freaked out. Here was someone posting "real data" but unfortunately for me, it practically condemned Castrol 0w30, 0w40, several highly-thought-of Rotella's, and several other Castrol's. I currently use the Castrol 0w30 euro. What seemed to bubble to the top were M1 0w40, M1 5w30 believe it or not, and most QuakerState Ultimate Durabilities (of various weights). Pennzoil Ultra Plats also fared well. Also Amsoil Signature 5w30, and several versions of MaxLife hi-mileage If you choose to be a 540RAT disciple, consider a couple things in his rankings: QSUD 5w30 has "incredible" (his word) anti wear numbers at his normal testing temp (230F), equally impressive at 275F (which he tests a chosen few oils at), but begins thermal breakdown at an in between temp of 260F (hmmm???). M1 5w30 has "incredible" anti wear at 230, but drops off considerably at 275. It's thermal breakdown is at only 255. M1 0w40 is "incredible" at 230, and still so at 275, and has high thermal breakdown temp 285, but he goes on to say it's too thick for most modern engines. Rotella's in general are rated poorly at the 230F, and begin breakdown at 250F-260F. He doesn't say much reassuring about them. PUP is "incredible" at 230, very good at 275, and thermal breakdown at 290, among the best in that regard. (So if I become one of his disciples, that's my chosen one. In fact, I may choose it for my Ecoboost 3.5 van). The Castrol 0w Euro's stink at 230, but have high thermal breakdown temps, 290, same as the PUP. They're NOT the latest versions with TI, nor are they the early green stuff, I presume, so maybe there's hope I haven't ruined my engine using them. There, I just boiled down his 2 gazillion word rant for you, as it might relate to a Subaru 2.5 turbo. Oh wait, he claims over and over that zinc doesn't matter, unless there is too much, then it really hurts. He cast doubt on my pre-conceptions, and opinions. So maybe that's good, but I don't feel I've got much solid ground to base my Castrol 0w30 choice on any more. So now I'm looking at "anti540RAT" blogs/posts. There are some. Also discovered how "thick" these Castrol 0w Euros are at the "cold" temp of 40F. Hmmm

No worries, it's confusing as hel*.

IF you're asking about BTS kit: It uses a different type of upper rear mount, not like the ones in your link, and not like USDM. I can't remember where this was discussed, but I actually have a post (not sure if here on LGT or if on Subaruoutback.org with a picture and maybe part number. its definitely for JDM and for mor tapered spring. Part # is in post 46 above. But there is nothing that can go wrong unless they didn't install the small rubber buffer ( not thick like the USDM) or they didn't tighten the mounting bolts under your rear cargo floor. Now, if they mounted them with USDM mounts, that may be your problem. Edit: see: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/bilstein-bts-outback-xt-kit-pictures-111880p12.html?highlight=JDM+rear+Bilstein+mount Starting at around post 169, pics & discussion

Well, I can't read Japanese, but appears current bid is 50,000 Y. I think that is ~ $520. Of course the wild card is shipping to USA. FWIW, I looked into the BTS 5088 kits today which are down to under $1400 US...plus shipping (and/or whatever other charges need to be applied). 5088 offers somewhat stiffer springs and lower ride height. Of course my Bilstein setup is so bastardized, I have no idea whether stiffer springs & lower ride height would be a good things or not.

Admittedly, the springs I saw we're used, and might not have been as advertised, but the front spec B springs were much longer than LGT (at least as long as OB XT) and thinner gauge. I never mounted them, but had the impression they would result in higher ride height than LGT mounted on the same strut. But maybe they would sag more given the thinner gauge. This was always baffling to me given spec B allegedly being higher perf. Maybe softer spring mates better with Bilstein, IDK.

I had a BMW with this issue once. The diagnosis that shop offered was that the pressure plate fingers had warped / collapsed / worn out. The pressure plate itself was fine, still clamping the clutch disc adequately, but clutch eventually wasn't disengaging adequately. When I replaced the pressure plate (along with everything else) all was well. Car was much more enjoyable to drive less aggressively. So the lack of disengagement was my cue to replace. It's like being on a teeter totter with the fulcrum closer to you than the other seat. Except its not like that, because the effort is higher AND (maybe) the movement on the other side is less as well..which doesn't quite match the teeter totter concept...unless the teeter totter "beam" had sagged to where you were barely getting the other guy off the ground. Now you know as little as I do. BTW, my current 07 XT clutch is stiff, and the reason I responded to this thread is I might be in the same boat OP is in. But until clutch doesn't disengage, slips, or throwout bearing gives out, I'll just keep building up my left leg muscles by driving it to and from my cube each day. As long as I drive aggressively, it seems to be "in character" and works fine. Bottom line is I can't rationalize replacing it until it gets worse. I had the dealer Service Tech inspect it & drive it, and he claims it is a 70K clutch, as appropriate, stiffer than some, but not out of line with others, has considerable life left, and not causing any other damage except perhaps to my knee and lower back). Besides, who needs a clutch except at initial launch from rest.

moved to: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/another-bilstein-outback-story-200481.html Thanks ssbtech (below)

An acquaintance (and a more respected member of LGT forum than I will ever be) has used M1 5-30 since day one in his 05 LGT, and no regrets. So that is what I am leaning toward, though I've been mixing in 1+ quart of M1 0-40 for the heckuvit. So maybe I'm running 3.75W32.5, of a semi-affordable P4 lubricant. Anyway, I'm nuts, and I think this is all overkill for any daily driver who changes oil every 4K miles or so. Maybe you racerheads or arctic cats need more. For now, blue Subaru filters, though I'm pissed I missed the end of an ebay auction for 3 Tokyo Roki filters that went for under $18 total. Glad WIX has stepped up with their 57712. May have to try one soon.

Diggs, Pm me after labor day, I may have what you want...from 07 wagon virtually new

Easton, can you tell me why it would be bouncy? Is it "wrong springs" or "wrong something else." What would be wrong with stock springs cut to provide 1" less travel? (which might match travel these struts were designed for). What is your hub to fender flange distance? Here's why I am optimistic: 1) higher perches take place of spacers, EXCEPT my Bilsteins also have longer travel than the Bilstein HD's. But I plan on sending these to Bilstein for "tuning" or at least rebuilding. 2) I'm still thinking there can be a spring that will give me 16"-17" hub to fender flange spacing (more than OB2.5XT's with all his spacers, and not more than stock. I would actually like 16"...which I gather is basically stock non-USDM...such as Bilstein BTS). But I admit, I don't know what springs would provide that...or what springs "match" the Bilsteins. It might be better to have 00-04 springs. I don't think there is enough weight difference between Gen 2 & 3 to really matter, but the "progressivity" might be different.