Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

jholder

Members
  • Posts

    121
  • Joined

Personal Information

  • Location
    Huntsville, AL
  • Car
    2005 LGT LTD 5MT RBP
  • Occupation
    Web Developer

Converted

  • Aim
    DiscountPimpDadE

jholder's Achievements

Collaborator

Collaborator (7/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. I would like whoever designed these motors, to die a horrible death. I very nearly pulled an Elvis on my car last weekend.
  2. Just got done disassembling my passenger rear hub. I was 87.4% sure that was the faulty one... ass soon as I got it off of the axle and turned it by hand, I knew I had found the culprit. It feels like they lubricated it with sand impregnated oil I just wanted to chime in and answer my own question. Removal of the rear wheel bearing is identical in process to the front. I only came across two minor differences. One is that the rear caliper bracket is held on by two 14mm bolts, rather than 17mm the fronts use. (makes sense when the front brakes handle the majority of the braking load). Two, (I believe) the backing plate mentioned is integrated into the parking/emergency braking mechanism. It comes off easily as soon as the wheel bearing assembly is removed. (by easily i mean falls right the **&@#$ off) to the OP great post. It took about 40 minutes for dissassembly with hand tools and a floor jack. Most of the time was spend trying to see/find the bolts behind everything. A list would have have halved this. I'm guessing about 1:15 per wheel bearing with normal hand tools.
  3. Is there any major difference for the process of replacing the rear wheel bearings vs. the front? I haven't seen any walkthroughs for the rears, but I assume it will be pretty similar.
  4. Is there a reason you picked up the entire assembly rather than just the wheel bearing itself? (I thought it was a lubrication issue in the bearing that caused the hum, and if it is something else I'd like to know that.) Thanks!
  5. Yah, I had them both there with me. I gave them both to the rep when I told them they needed to replace the ECM.
  6. I waited for a while after lunch, and went back out to try it again. With the A/C off, the temp needle was halfway between cold and the first tick, the fan on the driverside of the radiator comes on full blast with the key moved to 'On'. I called SOA this morning, they called the dealer, who then called me and sounded all pissy. So I told him I'd wait a little while and try it again. Did that called him back and explained what was happening, and they placed an order for a replacement ECM. I really wouldn't even be bothered by this except for the fact that I told them flat out, the fan was always running, and from my research, that indicated that the ECM needed to be replaced. I just hate having to take another 2 hours off of work. --james
  7. I took my car in for the recall this morning. Took about 45 minutes total. My fan had been stuck on all the time (cold engine, hot engine whatever), so I was pretty sure the ECM was fried. Talked to the service rep afterwards, and he said the service guy had only changed the relay, and that he tested the ECM and it was fine so they didn't replace it. I got in my car and moved the key to 'On' without cranking it. There was a fan on, and the temp was near the center (the normal 'warm' area), but it didn't sound as loud as I remembered it, so I thought it was just my imagination. Anyway, it seemed odd to me, but hey its their job right? Anyway, checked the recall info, and searched on here a little. And I started wondering, if I got into the car that only drove from the service bay to the pickup area (about 60 feet), would it be warmed up if they had let it cool down to below the first mark? I've got a case number with SOA, and they're are going to look into for me. My question to you guys is this, with the A/C off, and the key in the on position, should I hear any fans at all? I can't remember it's been so long. Also, with the relay replaced, and if my ECM is actually damamged, what symptoms should I see? The fan still always on? Like I said, I heard *a* fan, but it didnt seem as loud as I remember. Should one be running normally? Thanks, --james
  8. I must have completely missed the point of your post. First you say there's no such thing as a staged Legacy, then you say its only in the context of a package or group of parts.Almost everyone on here agrees that a stage N car has had certain parts upgraded. It's as you say, a "group of parts". So I'm gonna have to call shenanigans on your post. So what exactly are you complaining about? That John Doe does not have a "Subaru Legacy Limited Stage 2" since its not from the factory? Or that "stage 2" is not the same as "Stage 2"? As far as it being fast and furious, its just shorthand. I for one would rather someone say they've got a stage 2, than rattle of a list of mods I could guess they had from them just saying stage 2. Efficiency FTW --james
  9. I had a lot of trouble with one of my rear bolts. I ended up going down to NTB and getting them to get hte car up on a lift and go after it with an impact wrench. One of the mechanics mentioned, while we watched the guy under the car slide sideways under the car while using the impact wrench, that the wrench was putting out 350 lbs of torque. The guy under the car was literally sliding around. He finally got it to break loose though. The wierd thing is, after reading all these, I thought the fronts were a breeze compared to the rears. --james
  10. Working on the rears today. Got one off with very little trouble. The driver side however.... I hate these goddamn bolts. That is all. --james
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use