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RabidWombat

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  • Location
    Bay Area, CA
  • Car
    09 DGM LGT Stage 0, 08 DGM Impreza
  • Occupation
    Scientist

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  1. I was having the same issue. Dealer diagnosed as the board in the roof, followed the steps here and it seemed to work. Thanks for the detailed pictures. It looked like most of the solder joints on my board were cracked.
  2. A friend just had his 08 Corvette smogged. OBDII only with minimal visual, no sniffer at all. Said the guy didn't even bend down to look under the car. Popped the hood and minimal inspection there. This was Contra Costra county which should be a high smog county, so there's definitely no sniffer requirement for newer cars.
  3. I definitely should have read this post more carefully. I went and tested a Britax B-Safe, since they get good reviews and liked the stroller. The B-Safe was a straight no go though. It only fit with the seat 100% forward. Tried a Keyfit 30, and it looks like we'll probably go that route. If I can find a Perego I may check it out also.
  4. So, baby #1 is due in 4 months... We've got two cars, a 2009 LGT and 2008 Impreza 2.5i (both sedans). Anyone have any recommendations on a rear-facing seat that works well in a Legacy or alternatively, seats to avoid? I can check CR, etc, but was hoping to narrow things down to start.
  5. I'd look around to see if you can't find the same ones. What matters to the differential is the ROLLING circumference of tires, when fully weighted on the car. Between different makes of tires, you have no guarantee that the tires will flex the same. You might be ok, if you can find the newer variant of the same tire, but even that is potentially pushing your luck. Unfortunately, there's no good indicator of how much is too much variation? Also, what year/model Subaru? Newer Subaru's (2010+) will be a little more tolerant since they have open differentials in the front and rear.
  6. That's about typical for SF Bay Area Subaru prices. 1-2yr CPO Subaru's are typically listed at basically the same price as a new one. I agree its crazy, but definitely seems pretty normal around here. Needless to say, I bought new.
  7. Best case you'll be able to get it for around $20k, basically the $22.9k - $3k needed repairs. You could offer less, but they're unlikely to take it. Keep in mind they can potentially sell to a less through buyer, so its mainly a question of how badly they want to get it off the lot. If you're dead set on the car, I'd bet you could negotiate a deal at $21k. If you don't like those prices, your best option is likely to walk away and find a private party sale where there's more option for negotiating, and the seller is less experienced.
  8. I'm guessing it has more to due with reliability and gas mileage. While fuel pumps may be rated for 100% duty cycle, cars are not operated that way. Heat is bad for most electronics, so reducing the pump heat is probably going to a have positive effect on the lifespan. Especially, if the vast majority of the time will be spent at the 1/3rd DC. Its could be the difference between having a fuel pump die at 100k miles and 150k miles. In both cases, the fuel pump has lived well into its designed life-span, but the second is better for overall reliability, which is what is tracked by Consumer Reports and other popular reliability sites. Since you're already talking about modding the fuel system to perform well beyond its original design, I'd say it doesn't really matter either way. To put the heat issue in comparison: 240W ~ 1/3 HP, assuming 30% efficent electrical system ~ 1 HP required to run the fuel pump. At idle, you're probably making somewhere between 15-30 HP, so about 5% of the engine power is keeping the fuel pump running at full speed. And probably a 0.5% change in EPA fuel economy. Its small, but if you do 10 small things you get a noticeable bump in mileage.
  9. 2.2 kOhm resistor works in place of the sensor. The computer just thinks the sensor is operating nominally.
  10. You probably don't even need to add solder, simply reflowing the existing solder is good enough. The existing solder will be a lead-free compound. Fine gauge solder is ideal, and a fine tip soldering iron. Touch the iron to the pad, and quickly touch the solder to the pad next to the iron and you should get a quick reflow. The hardest part about SMT rework is usually holding the circuit board firmly so you can use two hands.
  11. Theoritically, it would be possible to get around this with a man-in-middle hack. Hooking a surrogate computer to the ECM which would detect these checks and return the stock ROM values would allow an arbitrarily modified car to pass.
  12. A lot of the change actually makes sense. CA needed to move away from the sniffer test because it didn't work on newer cars. The old sniffer test required putting the car on a dyno, but this doesn't work for AWD or most vehicles with traction control. Since any clerk at an auto parts store can clear a code, we all know code checks don't work. If this is actually implemented as described, it makes it easier on people who are Stage 1/2, who can simply swap to stock tune and pass. Anyone running significantly larger turbos/injectors will have problems.
  13. For the record, 511 is the resistor value. Its a 510 Ohm resistor. The other two are shorts that could be jumpered with wire if needed.
  14. Its not in the 5EAT either. The FWD fuse is only found in the 4EAT, which is the 2.5i. For 4th gen Legacies its best to put the donut on a front tire, as the open differential will help reduce the rate difference seen by the center diff.
  15. Ah, right. I stand corrected. In fact it would be worse than a FWD car, you could get stuck by having either the front or back tires on ice.
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