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Stevo F

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  • Location
    Virginia
  • Car
    2000 Outback Limited
  • Interests
    family stuff, cars, computers
  • Occupation
    Accountant

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  1. I think you’re right. I put the ‘97 unit and everything seems to work well
  2. I'm chasing the normal HVAC control gremlins in the '98 GT (directional controls stick on dash only) and would like to install the control unit from out old '97, but I notice most places list units for '95- '97 and then for '98- '99 with no interchangeability between those years. Everything looks identical between the earlier and later control unit so I wonder what the change was.
  3. I then returned with one of my spare radiators which he installed. He reported the fans are now cycling properly, but the air bubbles still remain. The car has never overheated and no oily gunk in overflow tank or anything like that. He is thinking early signs of headgasket failure. I know it's rare on phase 1 EJ22's, but not unheard of. Are there any other ways to better identify if it's headgaskets? (I plan to drive it some to see if the air bubbles are still coming up to make sure it's not just trapped air- really hoping this is ti). It's getting close to needing the timing belt done anyway, so I'm thinking it may make sense to do headgaskets too. If so, what are recommendations for good MLS headgaskets? Did Subaru ever produce them, or are OEM EJ22 gaskets all single layer?
  4. My mechanic went over the electricals and found the ECU is not switching the fans on and off. Also the fans seems to cycle normally if the car is idling, but once it's driven even a short distance the fan stays on. He did a coolant flush and fill and was certain her got all the air out but was still seeing bubbles. He is concerned about headgasket leak (as that's one of the signs) but he also thinks the radiator is fairly clogged up so i'm thinking there is trapped air in the system even his suction device couldn't get out. I'm going to taker it back over with both of my spare radiators and see if that solves both the bubbling issue and the cooling fan issue.
  5. I've noticed that when I shut off my wagon ('98 Legacy L with 2.2 liter & automatic) I can hear the cooling fan shutting off as well. Sure enough the fan on the passenger's side is running any time the engine has warmed up, even on a cold day. It's been doing this for a few months now. I'm thinking the coolant temperature sensor is causing the fan to kick in at too low a coolant temperature. Otherwise the cooling system is in good shape- the engine temperature is right where it should be and doesn't fluctuate, no coolant leaks, etc... My problem is that I can't find the sensor. I've read up on it and seen some pictures online, but none of the pics look like what's on my car. I know it's on or beneath the intake manifold, near the IACV and the sensor for the temp gauge is next to it. Does anyone have a better way to locate it on an EJ22, or have some pictures showing it's location?
  6. I'm thinking the lack of working ABS is causing your brakes to lock up too quickly at which point your pretty much lose control of the car when braking on ice or snow.
  7. Update- I ended up ordering 2nd gen Forester calipers and rotors. Everything bolted up just fine and I replaced the flexible lines while i had it apart. The brake response and feel is much better. Not as touchy as my 2003 Forester. Went ahead and flushed the brake fluid front and back for good measure as it has been several years.
  8. I definitely want a more sensitive pedal (my Forester is quite touchy vs. the Legacy where you comparatively have to stand on the pedal). I'm not sure if the Forester calipers are larger/ larger capacity than the GT calipers or not- I know the rotor size is slightly larger. I drove the Forester to work today and was glad to have the responsive brake pedal, given the actions of some of the drivers I encountered this morning. Also, one of there question- are the brake line to caliper fittings all the same for these? I want new flexible lines and was wondering if I order the lines for the Legacy, are the fittings compatible with the Forester calipers.
  9. I'm still debating on whether to go with the 2nd gen Legacy GT 10.9" rotors and calipers or the 11.5" as found on my 2003 Forester. My main question is whether there will be any significance in stopping power between the two? I can get the GT calipers cheaper and have a couple of old calipers I pulled of my GT to trade in as cores if I get these. However if the Forester setup will be more effective, then it would be worth the extra $.
  10. My mechanic's fancy SRS scanner couldn't read it so he told me to try the diagnostic per the link above. After some looking around under the dash I finally located a black plug that matched one of the pictures. I grounded pin 1, per the instructions, and I was able to extract error code # 12, The descriptions I found were: "This Relates to Driver's airbag or control module circuit faults", which seems pretty vague. I Googled the code number and came up with this: "Airbag Main Wiring Harness, Module Wiring Harness Or Roll Connector Open" So are these descriptions saying code # 12 means I should replace he control unit? Used ones seem fairly plentiful on Ebay for not a lot of money.
  11. Yes, the horn does work and cruise control never did. My mechanic will come by and scan the code for no charge- just waiting for him to get back in town again.
  12. getting my son’s Legacy cleaned and ready to return to him today, after getting a new set of tires, and noticed the airbag light now stays on. Never any issues with it before and no accidents or issues with the light before (definitely none in the 2+ years we’ve owned it). Could a simple tire replacement have triggered it in any way? (no connection between the two that I can think of). Any electrical connections I can see look tight and no work has been done in or around the dash area recently.  What else can we check on our own or should we bring it to someone who can scan the code? My scanner only does ECU codes. I hate to return the car to him with this issue (he is at college an hour away). Ironically he has been driving my other son’s Honda for which I have an appointment to have it’s 3rd airbag inflator recall done), so I need to get car back from him when he comes over later today.
  13. I'm looking for better stopping power on '98 Legacy L wagon tan the stock single piston calipers provide. Everybody talks about upgrading the WRX calipers/ brackets & rotors but researching this at different forums brings up more questions than answers. I'm guessing people like the WRX brakes because the rotors are larger than, say the dual piston caliper setup on the 2nd gen Outbacks/ and Legacy GT's. What year WRX calipers/ brackets, rotors will directly swap onto my Legacy L? I see references to 2002 or 2003 often, but checking for part #'s at Rock Auto, those two years had different calipers and brackets. Interestingly, the part # for 2003 calipers is the same as on my 2003 Forester and many other models, 2003 and later. Also, the rotors look like the same part #'s as well, so what is unique about the WRX brake components vs. other 2000 and later models? Presuming the WRX parts do bolt on, do the front brake backing plates/ dust shields also need to be replaced? Luckily the car now has 16" snowflake wheels, so at least clearance will not be a problem. Has anyone done this mod on the front brakes (not concerned about upgrading the rear brakes at this point), and exactly what parts were used?
  14. I would LOVE Outback struts and springs on my car, but am concerned with extra wear and stress on the CV joints and other suspensions components. Also your experience sounds like you had a pretty tough time with the conversion!
  15. Thank you all. I went ahead and wired them in yesterday, but didn't have to go through the dome light itself. I pulled out one of the door switches and saw only one wire leading to it from the dome light so I figured out the switch opens the ground side of the circuit when the door closes. I tested it by tapping in to that wire and hooking the other side to the battery and the light lit up when the door opened and went off when it closed, just like it should. I found some stereo speaker wire and removed the door sill molding, running the negative wire to the switch, then splitting the wires and running the other one into the dash to the 12V constant power lead to the radio. I swapped the GT door panels in with my existing door cards and wired up the lights. I used some vacuum hose as a conduit for the wire where it comes out of the inside molding and goes back in behind the door panel (although it's a bit of a tight fit when closing the door). The lights now are working great and it was nice to be able to utilize other parts I was able to pull from the old GT.
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