BAD-WOLF

I don’t believe so, I know this to be the case on other vehicles such as the Volvo turbo bricks but on ours we seem to have on the fly adjustment.

Awesome thanks!

Anyone know off hand what bulb the 05 JDM headlight uses for the turn signal.

Took everything apart all was aligned and tightened properly. Replaced strut mounts, and it quieted down. Funny thing is they didn't look that bad just weather cracked. But I've learned my lesson, always do the mounts.

I wonder if that is my problem, when I put the new shocks in I put the shaft through the top hat enough to thread the nut on the shaft then released some tension on the spring so it would sit in the lower perch to keep it from spinning while I torqued the nut . The spring appears to be sitting properly in the lower perch. It's more of a clunk, Initially I thought rear sway bark links, I shook those down and they're tight, any other trouble spots I should check?

Well the way I did it was in a wall mount spring compressor. 3 arms hold down the top of the strut mount 3 arms hold the lower portion of the spring. Undo the shaft nut and the strut falls out of the spring. I do it all day at work with no problems. Everything else was done as shown in the walk through. I'll probably be taking it apart and revisiting it all again.

Good ideas, however I have triple checked the shaft nuts for tightness, and the strut mount was never removed from the top of the spring but that is something I will have to double check! The only thing I did out of the ordinary was use the stock flat washer then put on the koni lock washer, then put on the koni shaft nut. Thanks for the input by the way, these things perform amazingly and quite comfortably with the stock springs, that rattle just gets on your nerves rather quickly.

Just installed my rear Koni's waiting until the weekend to install fronts. I'm using stock springs and my stock strut mounts. Strut mounts were never removed from the spring, I did them in a wall mount spring compressor, everything seems tight but I'm getting clunking coming from the rear that was never present before. Was worse on left side, made sure it was tightened down, now is worse on the right side. Any ideas?

That's great info, tell me more! How's the engine doing, how was the tune, what do you suggest? I'd like to ditch this stock tune ASAP, to me that thing is poison.

Since I replaced my shortblock and valve train it's been doing pretty well, just some minor stutter here and there. Thing has just over 500 miles, and I replaced the downstream o2 sensor last night to see if I could smooth out the inconsistent idle. Since then it's seem a little beet more stumbly when I roll into the throttle. But I haven't driven it a whole lot since I installed it, maybe 10 miles or so. Possibly needs to learn new trims? What do you guys think. I'm waiting until the 3k mark when the engine is completely broken in to tune, so I'm running stock tune with a GS Uppipe, but pushing it little by little here and there, breaking it in the way I want to drive it but never revving over 4500-5000.

So there is that much of a size difference or is it a locking tab location issue?

Looking at the turn signal, thinking is it possible (seeing how you notched the housing) that you could notch it so as to use the USDM dual contact signal socket that way you could use a switchback led.

Yes that was my initial assumption, good to see I'm not the only one who thinks so. I told that to one of the senior mechanics at my shop and he just laughed at me, I didn't think it seemed too far fetched but he's one of those Subaruphobes so I don't expect him to know much about my car.

TYPE OF STUTTER/STUMBLE Steady throttle/Increasing throttle/Both: MODS Intake:Stock W BLITZ filter Exhaust:Stock Fuel:Stock Turbo:stock less than 30K Engine Management: stock Tuner and revision of tune(if you don't mind): MAINTENANCE Sensors changed: Plugs changed: changed spark plugs and VGC's about 1k ago OTHER SYMPTOMS: Only had this car for a few months so I'm still getting a feel for it. The best fuel I can get here is 91. I recieved the car with what I think was a few gallons of 87 and the surge in acceleration was terrible. After getting it filled with only 91 the surge greatly smoothed out but at times I still feel a very light surge/stutter around 75%-WOT. It seems to increase progressively in colder temperatures (30-20° here recently) and occasionally occurs in normal driving at these temps. Assumed ECU pulling timing in response to knock. (normal driving for me has been described by passengers as rather aggressive though so…). Thoughts? These symptoms have been consistent with one acception, I work on cars for a living and this situation quite confused me, here we go: Stopped at a gas station abou a mile away from my shop for some snacks on lunch. Turn of car go in come back try to start car, car starts to turn over and quits... Ok try again, starts to turn over stops... Ok make sure my lights (HID's) are off and any other electrical draws are off. Turn key, car fires up as if nothing even happened just like normal, but something felt different, so what does any responsible rational car owner do? Light it up. The weird part was that the little stutter it has on its way to redline was completely gone, and it pulled harder than I'd ever felt it before. Wired right or am I just missing something obvious. Al startups since have been normal.