chessyB

I have mine removed. If I have the radio off and windows closed fan down low I can hear the turbo spool then when I left off the gas I can here the recirculating valve open and push air back out the intake. Kina just like a soft PSHHHH So I guess I can hear the sucking and the blowing.

Thanks guys, I was looking at the Rallitek stock heights with KYBs. Its just once you factor in the price of replacing the fronts its not that far off from basic coil overs. I guess I will just have to think on it for now. Again thank you for your input

I hate how soft the rear is on my 08 OBXT. I know they make stiffer springs for them. I am wondering if anyone has them and how they like them also what type of weight they carry around. Ive had well over 600 lbs in the back of my car "bump stop was being abused" I priced everything out for new. struts top mounts and billows front and rear with stiffer rear springs. I found tein Basic coil overs for just a little bit more then KYB replacement stuff The Tein coil overs are 336lbs springs Does anyone know what the factory spring rate is?

I did my breaks back in may. Using the mid grade napa stuff, pads and rotors. It fixed the same shake problem. Then it came back, It got so bad that I pulled the wheels off and put a dial indicator to check for warpage. It had more then a rotor with 2500 miles on it should. I had napa do a Deflective coverage on my pads and rotors "Pads were glazed over". I upgraded to the top of the line pads and rotors from them "they have slotted rotors" . That was last night so no idea if it will come back. It went away for me again, I did notice my front rear control arm bushings are cracked and tearing so that's the next thing "well all bushings" My thought not that I'm the sharpest tool in the shed. with warn out bushings any type of rotor warp instead of being felt in the peddle it makes a death wobble at speed. The bushings are allowing more movement that then gets exaggerated in the steering wheel.

So I was just doing an oil change on the 08 XT, I'm using T6 Rotella 5w-40 in case anyone is wondering. I noticed some oil that shot out of the fill tube when I stated it "cap still off" With Cummins motors, away you can tell if it has excessive blow by, if the cap kind of just sits there and bounces or if it fly's away. IE bouncing = good, flying away = Bad. I know that a EJ25 is not a Cummins 5.9, but after flipping the cap I noticed it bounced. Not knowing all that much specifically about the EJ I have no way to tell if this is normal not. Without doing a compression check or a leak down, is there a easy trick to tell if you have a problem. "I'm also thinking the PCV valve could be stuck open" Here is a link to the video I made so it will be easier to understand Thank you

So I was just doing an oil change on the 08 XT, I'm using T6 Rotella 5w-40 in case anyone is wondering. I noticed some oil that shot out of the fill tube when I stated it "cap still off" With Cummins motors, away you can tell if it has excessive blow by, if the cap kind of just sits there and bounces or if it fly's away. IE bouncing = good, flying away = Bad. I know that a EJ25 is not a Cummins 5.9, but after flipping the cap I noticed it bounced. Not knowing all that much specifically about the EJ I have no way to tell if this is normal not. Without doing a compression check or a leak down, is there a easy trick to tell if you have a problem. "I'm also thinking the PCV valve could be stuck open" Here is a link to the video I made so it will be easier to understand Thank you

Thank you for the input. It just sucks when hair gets stuck in it "I have a long haired dog" I will see my my dealer says, or SOA. If it bugs e enought changing a dash out is no that hard done it before.

I have noticed now that the sun is back out, My dash right above my gauge cluster is very sticky. Anyone else have this problem? I 08 Outback XT Limited "IDK of they all have the same dash or not"

*** update *** I did the air box Silencer Removal, I am now happy with the sound of the turbo spool. I just wanted it to sound like it had a turbo. I am still thinking if I want to go with a COBB access port or not I guess time will tell.

Thanks for the advise guys. I am waiting for my friends shop to open up so I can do the timing belt. Have not done one in about 7 years and would like to have a someone who does at least one a week there to double check my timing. I already got the aisin kit. I was thinking about going with the gates Racing Blue belt. They are the same Quality as HKS or Greedy but half the price. I was trying to avoid the buying a down pipe, I know they will give the best performance. I know the internal costs for companies to make stuff like that, I hate paying that mark up. I wonder if I can get the flanges and build my own. Does anyone have any info on getting "off road parts" sent into CA? I worked for a Diesel company and we would not even send stuff here "even being located in the sate" I am wondering if I do pay the price would they even send it to me? I my memory serves me right my friend got a Catted down pipe on a STI a long time ago and the Cat did not meet CA Specs. If I am going to have to change it every two years, well you can probably guess the path I would go lol.

Hey there everyone, I found myself in need of a more piratical car, I had a big truck and driving 2k a month and 12 MPG was not working for me lol. I had a 98 outback a long time ago and loved it. Dam car did everything I ever asked of it, other then go up hills above 70. I look it camping took it to the snow, Really other then towing nothing I used it liked a truck. With that in mind I started shopping. Remembering how much I hated the power of my 98 I found myself looking at 05-09 Outback XTs. I ended up finding a 08 with 67k on "it little old lady car". I wanted the 08 simply for the AUX cord, didn't want to have to do the hole JDM Climate control to fit a double din. So now I a have a very good running EJ25 turbo with the 5EAT auto. Having been someone who has always been around cars and worked in the aftermarket before. I know how easy it is to make power with these. I am having to fight the feeling of just going all out and starting from just the block casings. I want to keep it auto, I drive probably 40k a year in town sometimes stop and go. Knowing I don't want to make it fast "by today's standers" I want to make it sound fast. I have already done a few things, A Resonator delete, and a K&N Drop in. Along with tinted windows cleaning the headlights and LED bulbs, those are really just live with mods. I am thinking about getting a intake tube "I am not worried about installing it" Do they make the Turbo spool louder? I know odd question. If I do fall down the rabbit hole of mods " I have been known to do that" how much power have you seen the 5EATs hold. I have not been able to find answers on these 2 things. Also being in CA I want to keep stock air box I am willing to remove that thing that goes up to the front of the hood.

I'm about to hit 255k It has done everything I have asked it too from pulling a stuck tundra out of the mud to racing a s-13 on the moutin.