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r.lee89

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  • Location
    Toronto Ontario Canada
  • Car
    2008 Legacy 2.5i SE
  • Occupation
    Licensed Automotive Service Technician

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  1. Test the other terminal again to B+ and you should read above 13V if the system gets grounded. If it still reads nothing then there's either a break or the something is telling it to not to turn on. The next step would be to check the wiring coming out of the ECM
  2. You try to put the horn relay into a/c clutch relay temporary to see if that fixes the problem. It seems from the wiring from relay to the clutch is ok. The problem seems to be from the a/c button to the relay is the issue. You can also put the a/c relay out and test for power when its not working it should have power at 2 terminals of the relay with the a/c on.
  3. Sway bar bushings or ball joints maybe upper strut mount. I would start off with sway bar bushings first if they haven't been changed.
  4. It could be a bad coil pack. Or EGR Valve stuck. Worst case the timing belt jumped. I had a couple of customers cars do that. With no CEL.
  5. The brake cleaner is pretty harmless. I have used it to clean MAF sensors and have no issues. As for the throttle body from a 2011 WRX im not sure.
  6. I installed the Moog Asia Spec 5 years ago and no issues yet. The reg moogs were crap.
  7. Reading 12v at the wire does not prove its good. Because the wire can be on a couple strands of wire or slight corrosion and still read 12v. You will need to a voltage drop test on all 3 wires to see if the wiring is good. These codes will not prevent the car from cranking but it will prevent it from not running or running correctly. Codes that have to do with immobilizer will prevent it from cranking. I think your problem is in the main positive wiring and ground cable. Maybe you should get the battery load tested too. I've had batteries read 12v and will not crank.
  8. Is it a manual or auto? The manual is hiding behind the downpipe on the passenger side near the firewall. The auto usually has a yellow handle near the heater hoses on the driver side near the firewall.
  9. I think you need to take the starter out and bench test it correctly. The starter has to crank when you bypass the cars solenoid wire. It could be your main power cable is bad. Have you tried to use a jumper cable and hooked it up to the main starter power wire and to the positive battery terminal?
  10. Have you tired putting power directly to the starter? With the jumper cable hook one end to back of the starter where the thick wire is bolted to. And the other to the positive battery terminal. Then disconnect the small wire off from the starter solenoid completely and get a small wire jump it to power at the battery terminal or the jumper cable. If it cranks then the problem could be a bad relay or power cable other electrical issues . As for codes i wouldn't worry about it right now.
  11. There is usually a thick ground bolted to near the starter bolt to the body i think. If its a bad ground you can try to use a set of jumper cables one end to the negative battery terminal and the other end to the engine block.
  12. If you plan on replacing all the sensors in the new set you can see if the tire shop has the option of cloning the ones that are on your current car. That way when you swap tires every season there no need to reprogram.
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