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wac

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    Hanover, NH
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    2005 OB XT LTD 5EAT

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  1. Your question is clear. I don't have direct experience with Spec B struts, but I'll try to help decipher your part numbers vs. the 1stsubaruparts website: 1. 20320AG00A = "Legacy/outback , Without Gt Limited Spec B Location: Left". I would easily rule out this one. 2. 20320AG01A = "Legacy/outback, Sedan, With Spec B Model , Without Gt Limited Spec B Location: Left". I would lean towards this one as the first choice. 3. 20320AG000 = "Strut Mount F C0u4 , With Gt Limited Spec B Location: Left". This part number would probably work too. Here's another post that tries to explain the difference between the last two part numbers.
  2. It sounds like you have the right belt, because it is a very tight fit especially on the DOHC engines. I always have to apply a torque to each of the cams in opposite directions to give me that last little slack by compressing the valve springs. Once I get the cams set up properly, it just goes in perfectly. I've used bungees for doing this, but a helper would be much easier. Good luck!
  3. For really stubborn items such as wheel axle nuts and crank bolts, I use this: http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/370x370/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_15098.jpg http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-1-2-half-inch-emergency-impact-wrench-92349.html It's completely unsuitable for its original marketing purpose of removing/installing wheel nuts due to complete lack of torque control, but I find that the centrifugal flywheel/hammer action works well on rusted and stuck bolts/nuts. I've had mine (the older version, which has a black housing) for 5 years, and although fit and finish is low grade, it really does work as an impact wrench if you are patient with waiting for it to spin up over and over again for each "hit". I've had to "hit" one wheel axle on my old Impreza over 50 times to break it free. This was after a 3' iron pipe on top of a 18" breaker bar merely bent the pipe into a bow, and the end where my hands were holding already moved at least 18". I stopped because I didn't want the breaker bar pin to snap and send shrapnel flying towards my house and/or car and/or me. I used this tool again on the crank bolt on my OBXT last fall, and only had to hit it a few times to break it free. I use regular sockets with this tool and have yet to break any sockets. -Wayne
  4. There are no adjustments available. Sorry.
  5. I finally found time to install mine this weekend. I combined this kit with an iSimple IS335 3.5mm jack. I drilled a hole for the 3.5mm jack in the center console next to the power socket. The only trick was I had to snake the IS335 cable through the hole I drilled, plug the IS335 3.5mm plug into the socket on the adaptor, before finally finishing assembling the back plate of the CD stack while inside the car. Everything works well when used with an iPod to audio cable I bought from Ebay. The only thing I noticed is that the Audible audiobooks from my iPod sound a bit distorted even at a relatively low volume level of 4. On the other hand, music tracks sound perfectly fine. It could have something to do with the high gain setting of the adaptor board, the iPod cable, or a combination of the two. Regardless, I'm very happy with this kit, and it's much, much better than the old FM modulator.
  6. Thank you. I just sent an order via PayPal.
  7. +1 for me too. Great work with the continuing evolution of the aux input solution. I could try and make it myself, but I'm glad you've already done all the work and saved me unknown hours of time. The only things I would do differently are to use all SMT components to reduce size and cost, and perhaps replace the electromechanical relay with an analog switch for clickless switching. Here are some analog switch chips: http://www.analog.com/en/switchesmultiplexers/analog-switches/products/index.html http://www.onsemi.com/PowerSolutions/parametrics.do?id=968 http://www.fairchildsemi.com/products/switches/audioswitch.html
  8. I had a similar problem, but it wasn't as well-developed as yours. Since I work in the electronics industry, my failure analysis would say that the heating wire got broken from repeated flexing via contact from the metal bar and stitched leather (see second photo). Over time, individual strands broke one at a time, until it developed a hot spot because all the current was being carried by fewer and fewer wire strands, until there were no strands left. The burn marks are from the last moments (but could be as much as hours) before it failed completely. I was able to cut out the burnt/broken section, and solder in a short piece of 22AWG fine stranded wire. I don't have a picture of the solder rework, since all I did was cut out the burnt part, stripped off the plastic insulation from the existing wires (I used the 26AWG slots on my T-Stripper), and used plenty of liquid flux to help with soldering. Instead of hog rings, I used a trick I came up with a few years ago for fixing broken buttons on furniture and mattresses - zip ties. This is before I cinched down on the zip tie: I still had to take half the seat apart to find the broken heater wire, and this picture was on the way to buttoning everything back up: Total repair time was under 3 hours. And I saved myself at least $90 in a replacement heater pad.
  9. Three blown turbos in a row sounds like a serious oil starvation issue. Do you know if the previous owner had the oil feed banjo fittings and oil pickup checked? A BNR turbo with an FP oil feed line will solve any banjo fitting problem you may have, but it won't help if your oil pickup is still cracked.
  10. The water pump & t-stat gaskets are accounted for. The small o-ring is too thin for the dipstick tube. I've had the dipstick tube in and out no less than 10 times while I also upgraded to the Killer B oil pickup. I'm guessing it was an extra piece that fell in while they were picking parts at the factory for this kit. I'm very satisfied with the Gates TCKWP328 timing belt kit with water pump. There was, however, a small confusion with a piece of paper in the kit saying that it was for use on VIN numbers with a "7" in the 6th - my VIN has a "6". The Gates website, however, says VIN numbers with a "B" 4th digit, which matches.
  11. You guys are awesome. I'm 90% done with my timing belt replacement. Working in a dimly lit garage at night with a work light and a flashlight is not ideal, but I can only work on the car after the kids are in bed. The vise grip suggestion worked beautifully - I wish I had known this trick when I replaced timing belts in GC8 Impreza's a few years ago. I bought the Gates kit including water pump on Ebay for $290. It has quality parts inside with ball bearings in the pulleys that are identical to the originals. I noticed that Subaru used narrower ball bearings for the lower left pulley with an orange seal, whereas the Gates kit supplies two pulleys with wide ball bearings identical to the original upper left pulley with the black seal. I used the paper water pump gasket, and applied a thin coat of RTV to both sides per the kit instructions. The small hoses on the water pump were in good condition. The large radiator supply hose at the thermostat housing was in bad shape, and had already started seeping coolant. Instead of replacing it, I'm just going to replace the spring clamp with a band hose clamp. My belt and pulleys looked like their age of 100K - clean but worn, so it was due for replacement. The kit also came with a thermostat gasket and a mystery small o-ring about 1/2" diameter. Does anyone know what this is o-ring might be for? Perhaps it's a shipping or packaging device of some sort?
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