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Dispatch20

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  • Location
    Syracuse, NY
  • Car
    '08 Legacy 3.0R, '09 Outback 3.0R

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    Junkfood Junkie

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  1. Hicksta actually deleted a lot of his posts before he posted his for sale ad. I guess he didn't want potential buyers to see some of the shenanigans. He was def a good guy, though. Was quite a legend around here. Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk
  2. Not a recent hicksta story but related: I had bought Hicksta's car from him back in 2014 or so. I sold it a year later to a teenage girl. Well, I saw it pop back up on Facebook marketplace 5 years and 40k miles later with a blown engine. Bought it for $1500. Kind of sad really.
  3. I recently replaced the starters on my two 4th gen 3.0Rs. The 3.0R starters have a different part #s than the LGT, so I attached the starter part list. I also was lucky enough to find qty 2 of the correct starter for like $20 ea shipped on Ebay. Pics attached.http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5c169e10c014f/starters.pdf
  4. I believe it applies to all Legacies with Nav back to 06. The 06 Spec B had it. Here's the nav hacking stuff from way back then: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/another-oem-navi-features-hack-thread-progress-and-documents-36342.html?t=36342 I'm surprised an 06 Outback factory Nav didn't.
  5. If you choose to do it that way, then yes. You would need to buy the harness that would have ran to your mirror and you'll cut it up and connect your 5v regulator to it. This is an alternate way that isn't shown in the pics from then 1st few posts. I think Vern posted some pics of it later on. I'm sure you could buy just the connector and contacts somewhere out there for cheap but the search would take some time. You could also probably splice or vampire tap into the harness that is in every vehicle near the dome light.
  6. Subaru of America and Subaru Of Canada often take different stances on what they decide to cover on vehicles that are out of warranty. SoA is generally more generous (or more afraid of liability).
  7. A local technician attending a Subaru training on the Ascent today posted some pics of the Ascent turbo.
  8. I was cutting off my front swaybar endlinks with an angle grinder...and I accidentally cut half-way through the inner tie rod.
  9. Good question. I recall the picture for the Ultrapowers having aluminum arms last time. I ordered a set back then and I still have them in a box. In the new pics the bushing has voids like the stock bushings, too. If I wasn't lazy, I'd call up RockAuto and ask for clarification. I think most people just give away the old steel arms to scrap collectors. Shipping them is a little expensive considering how cheap replacements are. I wouldn't be too upset about using a steel arm vs aluminum. I've seen an ultrapower aluminum arm get bent due to a pothole. It's entirely likely they are lower quality and structurally weaker than the Spec B aluminum arms they attempt to copy.
  10. The pics now for the Ultrapower show a steel arm now. The part number is the same as the aluminum one i bought months ago. Hmm. Either way it seems like a good deal.
  11. I am not associated with this seller, but I think his product is good. Here is part of my email correspondence from when I bought his 12 pin Gentex mirror cable. $50 seems like a lot but it saved me a bunch of time. "Our harnesses for the GHSHL4 mirrors include the mirror-to-vehicle jumper harness (12 pin to 3 pin), plus an RCA cable and camera power and ground wires.* The RCA cable & power/ground wires are all part of the harness and are long enough to reach the bottom of the dash (approx. 9 feet long).* That way, once you install your camera you'll just bring the camera video cable & power/ground wires to the under-dash area of your vehicle and then plug the camera's video cable into the RCA female cable on the mirror harness & splice the camera power & ground wires to the power & ground wires on the mirror harness.* That way you are not tapping into any of the vehicle's wiring at all, and all of your connections are inside of your vehicle away from dirt & moisture. Picture of the kit is attached. Cost of the adapter harness & installation hardware is $59. If you do not need the wire cover shown in the picture, take $10 off the total (if you do happen to need the wire cover, check your mirror's mounting bracket as the GHSHL4 mirrors came with two styles, one which is a regular wedge mount and the other with an extended mount that is still a wedge mount, but there's provisions to mount a connector on the mount.* If yours is the regular one, the wire cover will work; if yours has the extended mount, then the cover will not work - sample pix of mirrors with the standard mount and extended mount are attached).* Prices include shipping & insurance. Thank you & have a blessed day! Best Regards, Bob Prim Bob's Automotive Mirrors & More LLC 7697 Forest Lawn Road Three Oaks, MI 49128-9558 219-575-9220 Philippians 4:13 http://www.bobsmirrors.com http://stores.ebay.com/bobsautomotiverearviewmirrors http://www.facebook.com/bobsmirrors twitter.com/Bobs_Mirrors" I also was able to find the connector part # for the 12 pin connector, in case you wanted to make your own. TE part #: 1318774-2 (and then file down a couple plastic fins and it will plug right in). Of course, you'll also need crimp contacts, crimper, wire, etc. The gentex 12 pin pinout is out there on the web somewhere.
  12. It's just as safe. You'll be relying on the fuse for whatever circuit powers the mirror (dome light circuit, perhaps). It may larger than ideal for the camera, but close enough.
  13. I never found that particular wire. It was easy enough to route the reverse signal from the tail light since I had to route the video feed anyways. It just wasn't worth the effort to dig around in there.
  14. Fortunately, 95% of the cases for the Legacy SRS dash light can be diagnosed very easily. If the overhead/map light "airbag on/off" lights don't illuminate normally (i.e. half-dim or only half of the lights on), then it's 100% certain the issue is the solder joints in the map light, which requires 15 minutes and $0 to repair. Nearly every Legacy made from 05-09 will see this failure at some point after 7+ years and 100k+ miles. But if those lights always act correctly and display at the right brightness, then I agree that they will need to read the code to properly diagnose it. But for those 95% of cases where it's easy to diagnose, I think it would be a waste of time and money to bother investing in or tracking down an SRS code scanner. However, some recent examples of the SRS throwing a fault that required a code scanner are gimpydingo's example above, and another person who had messed up something with the steering wheel clock spring when they were swapping the steering wheel.
  15. I'd buy the one that's less expensive. I bought the 5058 for my 3.0R, and I paid more to get it over the 5056. If I did it again, I'm just go with the 5056. But truthfully, if I did it again I'd just get KYBs. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
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