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Hi, This is really old - July- but FWIW - that's going to be super rare. Most people replace w/the USDM WRX '02+ version. I don't know how much is different, but should work w/some creative hose mods. There were metal and composite versions. Likely find them on Ebait or NASIOC.com. For the original, I'd look on Ebay UK or Ebay Australia sites.

Since your scanner works and cruise, this likely doesn't apply, and I don't know if your Canadian/ European (?) model is the same (I see KM/h speedo), but the USDM/USA models had a speed sensor (VS1?) on the passenger-side of transmission tunnel. These failed where the tip goes into the 'gear' in the trans. There are pics online. Also, if there any other undiagnosed electric gremlins, I'd clean your battery terminals.

'93-'01 Impreza rear stuts/springs (full take offs) will work, too. Unless your struts are new, I'd go w/those. But double-check online that you won't get the 'saggy butt' - where the rear sits lower than front. LegacyCentral BBs should have that info, too. https://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewforum.php?f=6 To answer your question: I believe there were some differences in the rear springs in the '90s with some being tapered and won't fit your stut's perch and/or top hat. And '95+ Legacys had different rear top hat bolt patterns, so they won't just bolt on. Probably covered on some other Subie sites, such as the USBMB.

Front seats will fit '90-'04 Legacy/Outback, '93-'07 Impreza/wrx, '98-'08 Forester. BUT in the Legacy the WRX seats sit HIGH - and you can't lower the passenger seat. So if you're vertically challenged that may be a good thing...maybe not. RE: Airbags - If your Legacy has airbags in the seats, the WRX should plug in. Rear seats won't fit, AFAIK.

Don't think so. It doesn't have the a speedometer sensor. I googled it and don't see one on Ebay listing.

And you've looked under the hood itself (as in UP) and around the engine bay for Tbelt sticker? Ensure you do a FULL Tbelt service, not just the belt. The belt breaks, yes, but the pulleys and idlers fail just as often, the Water Pump less so. If you get motivated to replace the WP, might want to replace the Tstat as well - Subaru OEM only on that. I believe the wagon and sedan suspension is the same height - only difference may be stiffer rear springs. But I'm sure someone out there has lowered one or the other, so google. Tune up time? NGK plugs and wires (only). Pretty easy on the SOHC. ATF - Do the drain, fill, drive repeat 3 times. That'll replace 95% of the old ATF. Also, the trans' external spin-on filter. It's meant for the 'life of the trans', but I'd replace it. Also, the front and rear diffs gear oil. Coolant check? Going into the winter don't want that to be an issue. But if you're doing the WP above you can do it then. Remember to 'burp' the system. Note that the front diff, oil, and transmission drain plugs and filler holes/tubes can get confused...they're not that close, but just a 'heads up'. Upull It yards, CL and FB for part-outs for the other stuff.

Hi, Late to reply.... I had a '90 that I did a bunch of mods to. It was an Automatic (originally). FWIW, the '90-'91 5-speed models had a different MAF (metal like the '91-'94 Turbos vs. plastic for practially every other '90-'98/'99 Subaru), injectors and IAC (idle air control) valve. And presumably a specific ECU/ECM. If the VIN starts with 'J' it's Japan made, a '4' means USA...which likely doesn't matter much. Did you try to access the stored codes using the Black connectors under the dash? http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm (Assuming the CEL light comes on with the Key On>Engine Off.) This site's forum is a wealth of knowledge and moderator/owner of the site is one of the most knowledgeable guys on the planet, Josh Columbo: https://bbs.legacycentral.org/ He still monitors the site, so ask your question there and give him a day or 2 to respond. I personally am not sure what the fuel tank has to do w/the loss of spark, but there could be a fuel pump relay or other wiring sensor that turns OFF the spark if there's no signal to the ECU.

Related??: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1893471 Grab a flashlight, Open the hood, start the car and see if it's leaking around/near the fuel rails/injectors/filter (not sure if your '01's filter is still in the engine bay?).

5-speed should work and be the same FD ratio = 3.9. Check this chart: http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru%20Transmission%20Chart As noted above you can usually get away w/using just the one bell-housing bolt. I was originally thinking Automatic and that wouldn't work.

Exactly what happened...G00gle FTL. Thanks

i think I fixed by toggling Spanish><English under the 'User CP' >Options>Bottom of page.

Logged in today and now most Forum stuff is in Spanish. Yes, I'm learning it and No I'm no way in heck ready for it on here. Ayuda! Gracias!

You're 100% sure of the year on that Trans? Sounds like a Phase 2 trans to me. What's the TZxxxxxxxx code on the trans = to verify year/application?

Hi, Those red wires aren't factory/OEM wires, IMHO. Looks like someone made a 2-wire 'harness' for something. Find where they go up under the dash. RE: the starting issue - Based on the codes, ensure your IAC on the TB is plugged in and all wiring is good. And the CTS/Coolant Temp sensor is a common failure point, which your symptoms would confirm. It's a PITA sensor to replace but cheap to buy. Note there are TWO sensors; One is the 1-wire for the gauge; the other is 2-wire for the ECU, which is the one to replace.

Our our '96 Brighton we had to remove the harness from the old and reistall in the 'newer' gate. There was no harness connector....that we could find.