turboconcepts

Robert, this sounds like the BOV , has failed ! or the vacuum line source maybe damaged .. causing the flutter noise [ AKA turbocharger surging ] Radial play or up & down seems to be ok , However in & out play [ axial play] is main issues with failed bov system .. resulting in thrust failure , there should be no play in & out . Also when turbo starting to fail smoking or oil burning will arise . The oil residue in compressor side is due to crankcase or pcv .. Subaru has problems with crankcase ventilation overtime . A restricted exhaust can cause low boost , along with improper ventilation by restricting the oil return draining . Suggest 1. Clean inlet 2. Check BOV & VACUUM LINE .. Use a vacuum pump to test BOV is working ,, must hold vacuum 3. Check turbo in & out play [ if none present ] Then proceed ! 4. Check back pressure in exhaust [ aka cat ] not clogged 5. If all above good , then test drive see boost level 6. Any above may cause premature failure of turbo 7. Replace turbo ! with above checked or replaced ! Nick Turbo Concepts

Yes, the TD04 is definitely more reliable than the VF series, but with that high mileage (... or kilometerage?) the first thing I'd do is change the oil and check everywhere you can for oil solidification, and if it's clean then leave it alone, should be fine. Gunk can end the turbos life fast, so as long as it's clean and running well then it's good, if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Negative on a piece of turbo

Not to say you can't do it, but there's a good chance you'll make a mistake and end up at square 1 again. The cartridge needs to be clocked and torqued right, and the actuator needs to be adjusted right -- assuming that the parts you dont' replace are good! Then need to properly prime the cartridge prior to fire-up. More shops than you think can't even install the turbo correctly, let alone replace the cartridge! Best to have your turbo properly rebuilt or exchange for a complete rebuild, AND replace your oiling system for sure! That banjo screen might not have been "removed" if you know what I mean That oily intake is typical for the high mileage, from recirculation. Here's link to our rebuild for this unit, or rebuild service is $425 with 3-day turnaround with all new internals (not incl shipping time). http://turboconcepts.net/cars/subaru-legacy-2-5l-sku-34083/ best of luck

Could be rod bearings, but if your turbo has a radial play (side to side wobble) that means that it's on its out. When it's starved of oil and you lose the oil pressure bubble in the turbo then metal makes contact with metal, could be shaft against journal bearings, journal bearings against bore, thrust collar against thrust bearing, etc, either way it will gall and you'll lose material, metal particles then start clogging the oil passages and causing abrasion from the particulate (think sand paper), thus further decreasing the lubricity and causing more wobble, until the wobble is so bad it galls the piston rings then you lose the seal, leak oil, smoke out, then total catastropic turbo failure, as in it's spinning at 130k rpm one minute then CRUNCH it stops spinning, wheels break and lodge into the housings and the whole thing goes to hell. So if you're getting shaft wobble that usually indicates turbo is going, most likely due to oil starvation, as in clogged oil supply in most cases with these units, replace turbo and oil supply system and you might be able to save your motor. And do a full oil change, every drop you can, and clean the oil pan. Feel free to call us up for advice 800-298-8726, ask for Nick. ~tc

Given that you're getting those AVCS-related trouble codes and getting a "hooo" sound from the turbo it sounds like an oil issue, either sludge, weak oil pump, or poor oil flow into the turbo. I'd fully change the oil and replace the oil feed system. Might be getting a clogged artery in the turbo oil feed system because if the turbo is getting under-oiled it can make that sound you described.

Wow, that's amazing for any turbo to last that long, you must take incredible care of your vehicles.

I mean the 46 is fine, and with regular oil changes and sane driving habits it should last up to 7 years/100k mi., but if you want more then you should go bigger (bigger wheels, housings, AND internals). These units wouldn't be by far our #1 reported failure if they were that good.

We see failed VF46 as often as VF40, under normal driving conditions they tend to last 5-7 years ... they are identical except for some compressor adjustments on the 46. Regarding changing the internals of these stock turbos, you'd need a totally different center section CHRA for those turbos to handle heavy foot driving. And plopping a bigger center section with bigger wheels into fitted end housings is an option, but the factory A/R ratios on stock those housings are designed for quick spool up with factory wheel specs, it'll choke at higher RPMs and cause back pressure if you have other mods.

Yep same turbine housing, different compressor side. Though note that on either of them the design and diameter of internal bearings and veining, and their turbine housings, aren't suited for getting pushed harder than regular daily driving, these things are already working as hard as they should just scooting to the grocery store, be careful driving em hard or upgrade to a larger-framed unit. Right now VF40 & 46 are the most commonly failing turbo we're seeing in the whole country.

It's most likely the oil feed system, the mesh filters in the banjos, or the itsy bitty tiny banjo bolt hole that needs clocked oh so perfect within the fitting to allow oil flow. Any and all of these can get clogged with sludge. And you have to watch for or cracked hard line under the intake manifold. I'm not exaggerating 9/10 customers who buy replacement Subaru turbos from us and don't replace the whole oil feed system have their new turbo blow within 50 miles after startup. 10/10 customers who install a new (or our upgrade) oil supply system are fine. That is the Achilles Heal of these AVCS systems. Not to say you engine isn't bad, but the likely culprit when a turbo goes down, then the next one goes down, is clogged oil supply.