phildog33

Hey guys,Selling my 2005 Suby Turbo XT Wagon Auto. Clean title in my name and ready to go.Has lots of mods which are in the list below and 199k miles.Really really clean and spent about $15k on mods and accessories for performance work (Stage 3 and Tuned), electronics/alarm/remote start etc and audio work.Pics here below on my site and screenshots from Cobb Access Tuner Race and maps, etchttps://phillipangert.com/2005subaruoutbackxtwagonlimitedandVideo of car turning on here and exhaust sound, electronics, etchttps://youtu.be/WdpV3dwmlOoJust put in a brand new turbo VF52 and has some kind of oil leak and exhaust smoke unfortunately. If you are able to do your own Suby work, this car is for you. Recommend to pick it up with flat bed and not drive it without fixing oil leak first.I will get lots of emails, so im not looking for barters or trades or low balls.Im not looking for a message from you that is generic like this -- "Is it available"Respond with a message that says "Im interested and can drive over and pick it up/check it out on this Day X. Thanks"List below of work and extra mods done on car:- Subaru Outback XT Wagon Limited 2005 with Panoramic Sunroof and Momo leather, 199k miles- Viper alarm and remote start and turbo timer and extra key- Innovate Motorsports gauges and digital SSI interface. Custom gauge cluster in center console and 2x XD16 gauges (A/F and Turbo Pressure)- Pioneer Avic-Z1100BT head unit with motorized display and great sound. Speakers removed but stock speakers included tweeter and woofers- Professional sound deadening installed everywhere, 3x layers of Dynamat Extreme- Rear View Camera/License Plate- Steering Wheel Controls- Cobb Accessport included with custom tuned maps for 91 and 93 gas- Stage 3 Tune = 320 Torque and 330 HP- Professional 3M tint on all glass- Custom front grill- 3" Catback Exhaust with 3x new Magnaflow mufflers and tips- Custom External Lighting and switches inside. Halo ring BMW style headlight and Audi strip style with switches for either/or inside- Bosche Icon Windshield Wipers- Perrin Intercooler- Perrin Inlet- Alternator replaced and cables- Grimspeed EBCS Boost control- Battery might need to be replaced (bring battery for swap if needed)- DW 750cc Injectors- AVO Fuel Pump- Mishimoto Radiator- Coil packs Replaced- Invidia cated Down pipe- Invidia catless Up pipe- Kartboy endlinks- White line 21mm and 23mm sway bars- Whiteline sway bar bushings- All shocks replaced- Red Rear suspension over coils 60% stronger for carrying more rear weight- Red Rear calipers- Subaru 2008 Wheels- New cabin and intake air filters

Hey guys Just got a used 2006 Suby and after 20 miles driving it on the freeway I got a P0171 code. Its a non turbo wagon, just regular, and not sure where to start with this. I have 1 month before it needs inspection (currently on dealer plates) -- But what would you recommend I check for first? Need to pass inspection in February, so have a little time. - Dirty MAF sensor? - Air filter issue - air leak in one of the hoses or O-rings somewhere = smoke test? Thanks guys, if you had this problem before... maybe you can let me know where to check for problems first? Phillip

I just called Cobb, they said for my V2 AP... you simply connect it to the ECU and uninstall it. It will revert the ECU back to the factory map without all my mods. Then the AP can be used in any subaru model between 2005-2008 (Outback, Legacy, WRX STI)

Thanks Max! I will sell the car and move on then. It sounds like head gasket and turbo is needed. Do you know how to unmarry the Cobb accessport from the car? I have the software for their racetuner and took the class from Cobb, to do my E-tuning last year. But back in 2012, it was easy to uninstall one of these access ports and sell it to someone else to use. Must be for 2005 outback XT or Legacy GT. Now in 2021 it looks like Cobb must do it at their HQs and they charge $325 to divorce it from the car

Also the compression #s on the car are 100,100 on drivers side and , 110 and 120 on the passenger side

Thank you guys so much. It’s been a huge love for me getting this car tuned and built the way I like it. The sound system inside has so much custom fiberglass work and equipment that I enjoy, that it put in at least double the price into the car! I don’t want to just sell it for $2000 As IS. I’d like to get it working again but my max is probably another $2500-$3000. After that, it’s better to just pull the sound system and some performance mods out and start on another 05-09 era car with lower miles. If it’s something smaller like a headgasket… I would def do that job! But where can I go in New Jersey to have someone look at that? Does anyone have a recommendation? If it’s cracked rings on the pistons or something major where the whole motor needs to be replaced then I think it should be sold to someone that can do that job without paying a shop. Thanks for advice everyone. Been paying insurance and registration on it for 6 months now while it just sits in the garage. We pulled the turbo out and cleaned it and looks ok. But another shop said it may be bad, and not sealing properly. Even if it looks ok and has no play.

Guys can you help with a quick question ... my current setup is VF52 turbo on this Outback into an Nvidia Downpipe, then full 3” catback exhaust .., if I wanted to remove the Downpipe and exhaust and keep for my next car ... can I but the stock obxt Downpipe and exhaust on it ? 2.5”. Will it mate up to the VF52? And the old car will need a retune for the smaller Downpipe and original exhaust. From stage 3 to 2 or something like that. Just let me know if the size of stock parts will mate up to the vf52. Thanks !

I removed the rear cap to access the nut for wiper arm and remove it. Then inspect motor shaft and clean it and grease it The wiper arm plastic crumbled away. So I need to buy a rear wiper arm for 08 outback wagon And The. Shaft was rusty and I really torqued it and it started moving again and motor Clicking. Then I greased it anyways and no change. So new rear wiper motor also. Does anyone have these two part #s and I’ll buy them today. Thank you guys

OK, I went out to the car to do some more tests and I really pushed the wiper from one side to the other and it wouldn’t budge and I kept pushing until it kind of unseized. Now it’s sweeping back-and-forth so all the electrical is good in the motor and it is working but it seems weak… Like it doesn’t have enough torque to pull the wiper over the glass and stops in the middle sometimes and then I can kind of push it again and get it going If I raise the arm so it’s not on the glass it will turn back-and-forth over and over again without stopping… But while I’m driving I can hear it being very loud, the motor is making a buzzing and clicking sound. Does this sound like something I can disassemble the motor arm and clean the shaft and lubricate or just buy another one and replace the motor? Thanks everyone

I checked everything again today and ok the actual plug coming from the harness I get - yellow wire is 12V constant - green wire is a switched 12V. It’s turned ON when wiper is turned ON - black is ground - blue nothing Then I checked the pin 2 to 3 across the motor for Ohm reading / resistance. That’s the green to black wires across the motor with nothing connected, I got 12.2 ohms. And if I read that 5ohms is correct ... does that mean motor is bad? I know some ppl said to simply clean the shaft of motor and sometimes it comes back to life. Otherwise does anyone have a link to the replacement motor ! Thanks again everyone

Hey guys, My '08 Wagon hatchback started having issues with rear wiper. Doesn't work anymore and everything else back there works perfectly. Ive repaired the wire bundle on my other '05 wagon, and im familiar how the wires break over time at the exit point from the body/headliner area. I did the same job and spliced wires and resoldered any broken ones i found. The rear wiper still not working and while the wiper is ON, I used my Multimeter on the 4 pins that go into the motor there. Connector has: - Black (GROUND) - Blue w/ Silver dots (NO READING) - Green w/ Silver dots (12V) - Yellow w/ Green stripe and silver dots (12V) It looks like im getting good readings on everything but the Blue wire. What should the blue wire read? Also is there a way for me to just test the motor itself using the Ohmeter? I know the switch is good, most of the wires except unknown blue one.. and motor unknown Thanks for any help! Pictures here

Hey guys, My 2005 Auto Tranny OBXT thats been tuned up to stage 3 and the build done in 2009 from everything I learned on the forums here.. finally is needing a new engine Im at 200,000 miles with her and on the fence if I should do the motor swap or get a new car. She has been meticulously cared for but finally having internal oil and coolant leak and we've deduced its either ringland failure, head gaskets, or etc. But motor is the culprit. MY mechanic said he can do it for $2000 for the whole labor part of the job. But I must find the motor and auto-tranny also. IS there anywhere specific I should look if Im in NYC area ? I was told to be looking for this motor type - EJ255 with d25 heads. Is that correct exactly? Thanks for help She's at 200,000 miles with lots of new parts and I did the tune with injectors, fuel pump, intercooler, turbo, catback, suspension, shocks, brakes, crazy sound system and audio/security/lighting project and new tires and etc. 200,000 miles and running good just burning oil/coolant and smoke out the tailpipes at idle. What would I charge for selling her at this point in this shape? Just curious... if I dont drop $4-$5k into her again for a new motor and sell instead As-Is in current state. Pic below Thanks for all advice

Ive tried 5-6x different circular, foldable ones for the front windshield on Amazon. All are too big and bulky. Only positive, is it folds small into a small circle and i put under the seat. Id like somehting that fits better. Can anyone recommend something? Thank you! P