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taka

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  1. Hi, I just wanted to post quickly my experience and fix for these issues. I have been living with the occasional limp mode and P2138 code for about 2 years. Usually in cold weather, and heat down to the floor would aggravate it. Idle was never consistent, and throttle would often be all over the place. I cleaned the throttle body in the past with no luck, but decided to take the pedal apart a week ago. Its two 14mm bolts to remove the pedal assembly (and the electrical connector), then 2 Philips screws to separate the electrical sensory portion from the mechanical pedal. See photos. I cleaned all the contacts with acetone and gave them a light scrape with a scotch pad. While in there, I noticed that the board with the resistive traces on it was not firmly affixed. There is nothing by design to hold it from wiggling around...and I think that's where the problem was. I scraped the metal plate a bit, then glued the board down where it should be. Reassembled and reset the ECU. A week later, it is running as it should Hope that helps someone. Cheers.
  2. It has been a while since I did this mod, but I'd like to help if I can. Did you use the STi or the WRX MC (booster is the same)?. The WRX is the 1" and the STi is the 1 1/16". I tried the STi first in my struggle, and it was awful. Like you describe with the rock solid pedal when engine off. Honestly, if you are using the STi MC, my advice is to drop it and get one from a WRX. Could you describe a little more what it is doing when engine running?
  3. AFAIK, The XT already has a larger MBC. Can't remember if 1 or 1 1/16, but last I looked at my buddies OBXT it was larger (and also not necessary because the pedal felt fine)
  4. I started out with the 1 1/16 from the STI. I bought a booster, MBC, check valve hose combo off ebay. Check earlier posts for my mini walk through and list of challenges I faced. I tried some basic math on the two component options (the 1" and the 1 1/16"), and just based on MBC/caliper ratios the 1 1/16 came out to be a closer match to what the STI would have - so that is what I went with. I tried it and thought "holy @#$% that is insanely sensitive". Seriously, its like 100% on or 100% off in like an inch of pedal travel. That's what prompted me to try out the WRX 1", which IMO is definitely the one to go with. It gives a far more normal feeling pedal when compared with most everything else out there - not quite, but the best option here. The math and crap does not take into account differences within the boosters, the pedal arm length/pedal fulcrum position, or other mystery differences. That is why it probably ended up being better with the 1". If anyone is interested, I can try and dig up the post I found where I got my raw data from. It was basically an excel chart showing all of the brake components and their details for Subarus from the late 90s+ Again, warning to anyone doing this: You may have to bend some hard lines back a few degrees on the firewall to fit the new booster, and the clevis pin needs to be rotated a few turns from stock or else your brakes will lock up. Again, see previous posts. I did some tests on this but can't remember off the top of my head what the results were.
  5. Rex MBCs won't bolt up to the LGT booster. Don't bother trying. Do it right, get the Rex booster with the 1" Rex MBC (and the check valve hose), swap the parts, bleed the brakes, love the car
  6. "This car is weird". After years of messing around with the brakes, that is the same conclusion I have come to. I just don't understand some of the behaviors. I have not experienced any shudder, but the rest I concur with. Especially the rebedding on the Stoptechs. So the 5.0s have a totally different feel over the standard HPS? And no deposits? It seems to still be a ferro-carbon. If the new compound it is really that good I may have to give them a try. SS lines would not do much as far as I expect. The problem isn't really a mush, so much as a long pedal travel with pads not biting as they should. The 1" WRX MBC is definitely an improvement over how I had the car set up with Stock +HPS, but it still behaves strangely at times. Often it will feel great, pads will bite, travel will be ok...etc. Other times it feels like the pads hook up like a light switch. Other times again the pads engage right away, but there isn't much bite. Usually some heating helps this a bit, but all of these circumstances occur generally under the same road conditions. Another interesting fact I have noticed is that sometimes the pedal will suddenly relax, as if the power braking system all of a sudden doubles its assistance. Often as the car is dropping to idle (but not from a hard boost situation - engine should be under vacuum the whole time). Recently I have thought maybe this is from an issue with the check valve, but to be honest I am not sure how to diagnose that properly. I feel the ABS hits ice mode far to quickly too. I really need to watch it or my deceleration will go to shit (running 2014 Pilot super sports). Basically I feel I have made the brakes better over the years, but still every time I get in and drive I wonder what the brakes will feel like, and something may feel off/undesirable. I can't say I am happy, but not sure what else to do.
  7. The bolt holes won't line up. With the LGT they are at like 10 and 4 o'clock. WRX parts are 9 and 3. Gotta go with a booster from the rex or sti (same part as far as I know) emosound, interesting experiences. For me I found the HPS pads were utter crap as well, but more significantly the deposits and spalling were HORRIBLE!!!! Never ever again on this car. You didn't like the Stoptechs eh? I have not tried any other pads except the HPS, Stoptechs and mystery stockers. The Stoptechs imo with this set up are far superior. They actually feel fairly good (provided you beat on them once a week or so, else they loose bite) and I found no depositing issues with these on stock rotors. Maybe the difference between the HPS and these has clouded my judgement and not allowing me to see beyond, but I am in love with them haha. What are the HPS 5.0s all about? I can definitely go for more bite if these provide Did you find the SS lines helped alot? Curious as to your full review on that before and after. Cheers,
  8. This is from my notes at the time. Required Parts: Master Brake Cyl - 04-07 STi (1,1/16") OR 06-07 WRX (1") Booster - shared between STi and WRX in generation Vac hose - with check valve Local Dealer Quoted Part Numbers (Subaru of Mississauga - near Toronto ON): STi Hose P/N: 26140FE131 STi 02-07 MBC: 26401AC191 Booster: 26402FE400 Looks like I didn't record the WRX MBC part number because it was an after thought mod. I am sure with a quick call or some trolling you could find it. It is pretty simple, you just need the part from an 06/07 car. Make sure that is the case, and it is stamped "Nabco Japan 1"" The stock brake feel on this car was about the worst thing I have ever felt, including neglected sunfires. Absolutely essential IMO to do something about this. It will never be amazing on the stock calipers (the large 2 pot sliding units seem to just always give a pudding like feel), but doing this mod can make the brakes acceptable. It has been my biggest issue with these cars. Since doing this myself, I have switched from Hawk HPS to Stoptech streets on all 4 corners. So far that has been an excellent choice - god I hated the Hawks on this set up. With the Stoptechs, feel is up, initial bite is up, and hot performance seems better if anything (no track time, just auto x and hard street driving). If I had more money to throw at testing, I would want to try something more OEM like and see what that does for initial bite. If anyone has done that, I would be curious to chat about your experiences. PM me if inclined. Happy to help with this if able. PS: I have an STi master cylinder if anyone wants to give that a try to see which set up you like better. Ship it out for cheap I don't care lol.
  9. Not sure about any vids, but feel free to PM me if you have any questions. I have done this before and it is pretty easy. Start with the intercooler off, then the intake piping to the throttle body. Leave the TB on the car so as to not need to replace gaskets. Hose down in cleaner. Careful not to move the butterfly too much - just hold it open and do what you need to.
  10. Good stuff. I should have done that ^ For the record, I decided to try the 1 inch MBC out of an 06 WRX recently, and like the performance better. When initially deciding between the WRX and STI units, I attempted some shoddy math, and that told me the STI part should end up being closer to a stock set up on a WRX. In short I compared master cylinder bore sizing in relation to the calipers - noting that the fronts are 2 pot, and the whole system uses sliding (so x2 on travel for that). Like I said, the STI numbers came out better, but there are other factors such as the pedal geometry...etc. TDLR: I recommend sourcing a WRX 1 inch MBC over the 1 1/16th STI part, unless your pants get all hot knowing you have some diseased parts in your car...
  11. I don't see why they would be different... unless it has something to do with one of Subaru's hill holder features. But, the STI never came in an auto, at least not in that generation
  12. Nope, that model year range won't do. I have an extra STI MBC if needed.
  13. I wanted to thank everyone who pioneered this mod, and took the time to post their experiences, problems and solutions. Most appreciated!!! I undertook this myself and I thought I would write a review (if TL, then DR, but will attempt to make this helpful - apologies for duplication) covering the concerns and tricky bits encountered in return. The part set I used came complete from an 06 STI (booster - "SJ", reservoir, 1 1/16 MBC, vacuum line + check valve). I have had the car for near 2 years now, and have done everything less drastic to cure the legitimately awful brake feel with little avail (caliper work, sliders, sanding/rebedding, fluid (like 10 bleeds -_-), HPS pads, rotors, Grimspeed MBC brace). Clearly the 15/16th bore cylinder is the problem in this car. The difference in FEEL is like night and paper, not to mention heel toe capability . As noted by previous posts, and common sense, this will increase pedal effort significantly, but also induce that "wooden" element. If anyone has any ideas on where to go from here regarding that then woo hoo. I won't rest until these brakes rock. General procedure taken in order: 1) PB Blast hard lines 2) Disconnect brake clevis pin, unbolt booster from firewall (cabin side) 3) Remove TMIC, bracket. Moved other lines in the way (A/C, harness down the driver strut tower, heater core hoses...etc) 4) Un-tensioned my MBC brace (not a stock piece). If you have one (and questions were posed on this in this thread), you do not need to remove it from car to do this mod, simply un-tension it and remove the preload bolt 5) 10mm flare nut wrenched the hard lines (highly recommend to use a flare nut...), pulled the vacuum line and check valve 6) Wiggled out the assembly 7) Inserted check valve from STI vacuum line into stock LGT line. Used generous amounts of lube, and the back end of a 3/8ths ratchet to force it in. BULLET SIDE points to intake manifold 8) Adjusted booster push rod to the recommended 6 threads (note: this utterly failed for me - see below section for more on this) 9) Inserted STI assembly. Don't be a fool like me and bolt up the booster, then try to assemble the pedal pin. 10) Leave the bolts undone on the booster so it can be maneuvered longitudinally as required to allow the pedal to meet the rod at the right distance. Pop in the brake clevis + cotter pin. 11) Now bolt up the booster snug 12) Once proper rod length is dialed in, make sure your brake lights activate at the correct pedal distance 13) Reassemble/undo anything in the way in the engine bay 14) Go heel toe some corners Concerns encountered from inception to completion: 1) I live in Canada, and was having significant trouble finding the correct parts around here/ebay even. Tons of JDM stuff exists on the market, however those are less than ideal (basically it is not worth the trouble). I eventually found the full USDM LHD part system needed (new ebay post ftw!) a) Getting a JDM MBC means the second hard line bolts up on the opposite (RHD) side - So you would be into extending existing brake hard lines... b) The booster line input is also on the opposite side - So you would be into extending the stock hose over or around the system to fit it up. Less of an issue than the hard lines but still a PIA 2) Check valve and hose are available with same P/Ns here in Canada from the dealer with no sweat, so acquiring that incredibly small but useful part is no issue 3) Was worried about introducing air into the system, and therefore into the ABS actuator. Sent about 300ml of fluid through each rear line, and 150-200 through each front on the final bleed. Have not seen any problems yet. 4) Bleed order is contradictory, even within Subaru documentation. I used RR, RL, FR, FL in accordance with past experience. 5) Bench bleeding was accomplished with the purchase of one brake hard line with "standard fitting" ends, and a roll of washer fluid hosing. Hard line was cut in two with a pipe cutter to reduce the chance of creating metal shards, then threaded into the MBC. Rubber lines were attached at opposing ends and routed to the reservoir. A 1/4 socket extension was used to pump the cylinder ~50 times (Until I saw crap stop pouring out of it - fluid changed 3 times). Used line pinchers to clamp each end to make it from bench to firewall without introducing air. 6) As mentioned, I used 6 threads on the rod. This did not even meet up with the pin, so I backed it off to probably 8 while on car. Even this locked the crap out of my brakes as others have experienced (you will notice it within 3-5 min of driving and it becomes undrivable). I will post an edit if I remember as to the exact number I use when I actually nail it correctly (hopefully tonight). If you feel the pedal activate the brakes within 1/2-1cm of travel, she ain't gonna work! 7) TO FIX BRAKE LOCK UP WHILE OUT DRIVING: Don't listen to girlfriend and brother about calling CAA... Pop the hood, remove vacuum line from booster (under a lot of suction). Brakes will unlock instantly. Limp home on alternate forms of braking + whatever possible on the pedal. Readjust accordingly. 8) Clearance issue on the new booster. It does hit the hard lines on the firewall as mentioned by previous posters. I felt a pain go through my heart every time I hammered the rim to adjust its shape, ergo I just got some rubber padding and protected the affected lines instead. That should do. Hope it was helpful. I am sure happy with this mod! Cheers
  14. I would agree ^^. My TB was, by my experience, pretty darn clean to begin with. I was not confident that my efforts would do anything, but hey, the issue never returned. I chalk it up to a very sensitive system. These cars don't have idler veins, so there must always be a slight and consistent gap at full close which some sludge could interfere with. I couldn't see a reasonable way to get that plastic cap off the TB at all, let alone while on th car. How is/was this done by others? Was that shown to help the problem as well? I did not do that as part of my solution, but I did attempt to blast cleaner up through the butterfly pivot.
  15. Ty all for the thread info here. Had the described issue myself ~ 1 mo ago (shutting down at cruise, unresponsive pedal...etc)... including on a busy 1 lane bridge (facepalm...). I am running an Access Port V3 so I was always able to set off again after a quick ECU reset, however the problem would consistently return every 4ish days. Presumably that is about the length of time for the readiness monitors to indicate a "fail" in the throttle system. Hit the contacts both pedal and TB side with liberal amounts of cleaner. Also hosed and scrubbed the crap out of the TB with carb cleaner. Note: Recommendation to anyone looking to do this, I have personally experienced/been privy to TB failure from messing with the butterfly too much on these ethrottle cars (Sentra, both 1.8 and 2.5L). Suggest moving it slowly and as little as possible for cleaning. I opened mine up wide, and held it there for the entire duration of the scrub down. Approx 3 weeks later, issue has not returned. Back to confident highspeed passes! My $0.02, that is all. Cheers,
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