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dawkins20

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  • Location
    Philly
  • Car
    2011 Ruby Red LGT

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  1. So I've moved on from my 2011 LGT to the 2018 Audi A4. I've always looked at these 2 cars as very similar given they are AWD 4 dr sedan with rock solid AWD systems. One thing that always drew me to the LGTs was the price/performance ratio. This is not nearly as good with the Audi, but there aren't many cars that still have that like the 4th and 5th gen LGTs did. I compared these 2 cars first going back to when I was looking to replace my totaled 2008 LGT. At the time, the 2011 A4 was a bit too small for me and gave up quite a bit of power to the 5th gen LGT. The new model is essentially the same exterior dimensions as the 5th gen other than a slightly lower roof. Power is substantially increased in this gen of the 2.0T with 270ish Torque available from 1400rpm to near redline. Since life needs required me to part with my manual (sniff), the DCT 7 speed is a lot more fun than the standard slushbox found on most auto cars in this range. The tech is absolutely amazing and the interior quality is a different class than the LGT, as it should be given the much higher MSRP. One major concern is obviously the possible long term maintenance costs with a German car, but I was willing to take my chances for once. Also I miss the absolutely cavernous trunk of my 5th gen, but this one isnt bad and has less stuff protruding down from the parcel shelf than the subie. Apparently APR and others are making insane number dyno claims with a Stage 1 ECU flash, mid 300s torque, but given Audi's more aggressive pursuit of mods with warranty denials (google TD1) and the very high possible costs of engine/ DCT transmission issues out of warranty, I'm not sure if this is something worth risking. As it is the car seems plenty fast, but I'm still babying it in the break in period. Cant wait to try the DCT launch control when I'm through that!
  2. What prices are realistic for a sale for a 2011 LGT with 86k. Its a city car so needs a new rear bumper cover and has a fair amount of small dings and scratches, so condition isnt perfect by any means. Looked at Trade-ins and I think I'm getting lowballed more than usual. One dealer I trust showed me his comp system and admitted these cars are super hard to value because there are almost no comparables in the auction system, the closest thing it pulls at 2.5i Limiteds. Obviously given this is a niche car a private sale would fetch much more but I don't know if I have the time that would take.
  3. Bump to see how all of you with the South Bend Stage 2 clutch have been holding up? I was Stage I w a Brentune for a bit, been Stock for a while now, and baby my clutch, no launching, racing, daily driver only. Stock clutch is still holding fine at 84k, but I think the TOB is toast , likely from my constant traffic around here, so looking to replace the clutch, and this one seems to be highly regarded. Any reason whatsoever (longevity, easy in traffic, etc) to go South Bend Stage 1 vs 2 ? Also how much does an OEM clutch cost, since mine is a viable option given how long its lasted. The cost difference between the South Bend 1 and 2 is pretty negligible, how about either of these vs OEM replacement.
  4. Probably the RCE blacks since they have the least drop Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. So can anyone here compare the Koni inserts/shocks to the RCE Bilsteins? I need to replace my stock struts on my 2011 GT as they are wallowing even more like a pig than when new. I am looking for a minimal drop at most as this is my daily driver in pothole infested philly.
  6. I saw the front post large letter warning, but I thought that Datalogging was possible with a VAG-COM cable on a CANBUS car, but flashing was impossible? Am I mistaken here?
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