mtnbikeman123

Yeah, I did use the oil cooler from my 255 the first time I did this swap and it worked fine. But then I changed to the newer gen motor and I gave away my old one so I didnt have a cooler to use

So for anyone using this thread as a resource, I changed the timing belt and water pump on this motor today. This motor was from an JDM automatic car (20x) so I guess that means I do not have the sandwich oil cooler under the oil filter (like the manual cars would) and the water pump does not have the extra nipple. I checked part numbers with the JDM diagrams and I bought water pump 21111AA250, this also crosses to many other USDM cars. The belt, tensioner, thermostat, and idlers are the same part number as the USDM cars. Everything fit, including the water pump, no problems!

update, car is for sale in classifieds. I don't have time for car stuff with a new baby. Price obo, just want to get rid of the car but I would rather it go to someone who cares than to carmax

You should note that the EJ25 timing belt kit I bought, the water pump is set up for the oil cooler where the JDM motors do not have oil coolers. I ended up swapping the cooler from my 2.5 motor so I could use the new water pump. I haven't done the timing belt in my new motor but I will have to figure this out when I get there, whether I want to swap the oil cooler or source a water pump without the cooler provisions.

In my car, I didn't have any open pins in the main connector block so I added a new waterproof connector that I zip tied next to the main block. The intake cam AVCS wires are already integrated into the harness, you just need to add the exhaust AVCS wires for the solenoid and the sensor. I ran the wires to my new connector, and then continued to run the new wires from the new connector through the bulkhead next to the main harness and then to the ECU. P/Ns for my order from Mouser. Deutsch connectors are expensive but worth it. You will also need a pin crimping tool if you go this route. I bought mine from Waytek Wire a while ago LINK 571-WM-8P qty(1) 571-WM-8S qty(1) 654-AT60-20-0122 qty(10) 654-AT62-20-0122 qty(10) 571-DTM04-08PA-EE04 qty(1) 571-DTM06-08SA qty(1)

Thanks for the info texy, sorry I forgot to mention that I got my information from you. Do you know what the power and torque ratings are from this motor, just out of curiosity?

Its been a while since I looked at this stuff but I think that on an 05 with the newer motor, if you use the 2 pin sensors, it should otherwise be plug and play using the US engine harness, injectors, and intake manifold. I've been out of the motor swapping game long enough now that I will be slowly forgetting everything I did here

So a quick update to my ongoing saga. I bought a later gen motor with the smog pumps(secondary air pump and valves) and U20 heads since I read that the U20 heads are more efficient. The smog pump will also let me pass visual smog checks in California. I also bought a twinscroll downpipe from yahoo japan via Aleado so I could use the OE twinscroll turbo VF47. The result is significant. I can run much more ignition timing than on the older gen motor, driveability is muuuch smoother, and I make boost sooner than with the OBXT/LGT turbo. If you look at the total timing maps from the stock ROM files, the years with the secondary air pumps and U20 heads run significantly more ignition timing that the older gen motors, which actually reinforces my personal experience!! I tried to use the aggressive timing maps with the old gen motor (before I knew about this) but ended up pulling so much timing out, the map ended up looking like the stock map for the correct old gen motor with old gen Z20 heads! The new motor with U20 heads and twinscroll was definitely worth the hassle. I haven't done any pure highway driving (thanks california traffic) but I expect to gain some fuel efficiency compared to the old gen motor. I am working through a couple of tuning things, I am trying to get myself to a DAM of 1.0 but I am still having some residual FBKC which has been frustrating. I think this is related to a metallic rythmic ticking sound that is new with this new engine. My last engine did not make this noise. I am thinking it might be related to my poor DAM and FBKC results. I have yet to diagnose it because it only makes the noise under medium load while driving, NOT at idle or light load while driving. I need a 4 wheel dyno so I can stick my head in the engine bay at speed......or I might drop it at a shop to have them troubleshoot. I am also working at running more boost and a more aggressive wastegate preload or spring to mirror some dyno results I found HERE Hopefully all this information is helpful for someone! Overall I am pretty happy with the motor and that my quest for dual AVCS, twinscroll, and smooth driveability has been successful. If anyone has input on my engine noise, that would be appreciated. I cant quite tell if it is engine speed related, engine noise drowns it out at higher rpms 3k+. It is not clutch or gearbox related. Maybe it is related to wastegate arm, a solenoid somewhere, avcs actuator, timing belt. Or maybe it is just that the twinscroll engine noises are different and this is normal?? All I know is that my previous motor and single scroll setup did not make this noise.

g0lds, I am not really sure what to suggest. I would certainly check that you have the exhaust cam sensors connected correctly. You could swap things left to right and see if the problem follows the sensor. Yeah, I wouldn't expect the JDM ecu to pass emmissions. My plan was to swap back to the US ecu if/when I need to get it scanned for emmissions.

Glad you got that figured out. I have been enjoying the 7500 rpm redline and the more linear power of functioning AVCS. It used to have a bump in torque at around 3-4000 rpm coming onto the cams but now its much smoother! Yay AVCS

I haven't run into this issue. Are you using the JDM engine harness or did you swap components and use the USDM harness? Did you do anything with the intake cam position sensors? I have heard that you can get a no-start condition if there is a fault in the intake cam sensors. I would probably trace the injector wires back to the ECU to ensure connectivity to the correct pins, check power and ground where appropriate. Not sure what else to suggest, sorry. You could try PMing Mondtster, he was helpful when I had questions.

At least the sensors I was using, the 3 wire exhaust cam sensors are not the same left and right. The mounting tab is offset by 90deg rotation so I had to use the correct sensor for the correct location.

Im not sure about the earlier gen JDM motor but the later gen JDM have TGVs so the later gen plastic case ECU will control the TGVs. I have confirmed that my TGVs do function while looking at data logs. This is straight from the wiring diagrams and pinout: LH Exhaust Cam Position: B134-31 RH Exhaust Cam Position: B134-12 LH Exhaust Solenoid +: B137-31 LH Exhaust Solenoid -: B137-30 RH Exhaust Solenoid +: B137-25 RH Exhaust Solenoid -: B137-24

L88, do you have a picture of this question? I can try to look at my harness to compare. Crankwalk, correct, I did not repin the ecu connector or use any type of adapter. The plastic case legacy JDM ecus have the same pinout as the plastic case legacy US ecus, at least for BP/BL applications. The JDM ecu uses some of the empty US pins for the extra functions. I am 100% CEL free with the one caveat, I disabled some secondary air codes since I do not have the pumps and valves on my early-gen motor. The later gen motors probably should function without disabling these codes since the hardware is installed on these later motors. SI Drive works as well. My ABS and Traction lights are still on and ABS is non-functional. I will look into this when I have finished tuning the car. In California where it doesn't rain, this is not an issue and I used to enjoy sliding around in the snow when I lived in the snow belt, but I can see that this might be an issue for other folks.

Well I have some good news for my car. Mondtster has been helping me and he mentioned that I should try using the manual transmission calibration/program in my ECU. My ECU is from a 2006 automatic car, using calibration ID A2UH000A. I downloaded the M/T calibration A2UG000B from Romraider forums LINK and flashed it to my car and it worked!!!! My P0600 is gone and now the car behaves much differently. I think the ECU was limiting throttle opening to 50% or less with the P0600 code present. Now I can build boost and the IAM actually changes and the FLKC tables populate in romraider learning view. Best guess is the A/T program was looking for the A/T controller and throwing the code and putting the car in a limp mode. The motor isn't very happy and is giving me quite a bit of knock, but I have put a little time into logging and modifying fueling and timing tables with some significant improvement. It seems like I will be able to get it into a good state if I can commit a few hours to logging and tuning. California gas Since I am using US injectors, I did correct the scaling and latency in the JDM M/T calibration. I will also need to change wastegate tables since I am using the VF48 and not the JDM VF38. Feels great to have gotten this far. The car finally makes more than 100hp! Thanks to everyone that helped!