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J-Cobb

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About J-Cobb

  • Birthday September 13

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  • Location
    Calgary, AB CANADA
  • Car
    2008 Spec B - Legarrr
  • Interests
    Subaru Tuning
  • Occupation
    Oil & Gas

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  1. I like the info provided - And I look forward to going into my garage and putting a stop to the annoying Seat Belt Beeper. It almost sounds like a nagging mother or wife - (put your seat belt on you idiot! NOW, or i will beep constantly until your brian is ready to explode) Here are a couple things to also consider when tuning your LGT. If you decided to run Stock Calipers on your ride (which I feel are inadequate) you may want to upgrade to the following: G-Stop Braided lines. Slotted Rotors from AP or other manufactures that produce a similar sized rotor as your stock ones. Helps ventilate better and reduces warping / weight. Please note - Not all after-market cross drilled rotors are indeed better then your stock ones so you want to pay a little more, and do some more research with the top brands. Ask questions. Hawk Performance Pads ==> good for the moderate street racer and daily driver. Make sure NOT to Run Race Pads on your daily driver - they take a long time to heat up and they will wear out your rotors faster and poor output in the cold. (not safe) Use a Premium fluid as well ==>any of the ones suggested in the above threads are good. Helpful hints: If you can find a WRECKED WRX STI with Front and Rear Brembos - buy them! as they fit your car given you have an after-market wheel with more clearance then the 05/06 LGT stock rims. The Brembos do not Swell so basically they do not hold heat like the stock ones do which means all you need is a credit card spacing between the rim and the spokes of your wheel. The weight of your LGT is not too much more then a stock STI so the load can be handled by the upgraded Brembos. I think the 2006 STI Legacy in Japan uses the same kit - and i've asked around and a ton of people are saying that its sufficient. Never activate your parking brake after you have driven your car hard for a period of time - You will apply force to one section of the stock rotors which will hold the pads clamped down, and the heat will stay in that area where pressure is being applied longer. End result, you will eventually warp your rotors and possibly have more vibration, and or fade under all driving conditions. The vibrations from warped/cracked rotors can be so bad that you may weaken the suspension from all of the vibration (ie. ball joints, tie rod ends etc). Trust me i've gone through it.. Suspensions Wise: I run a full set of Bilestien HD struts with Subaru Spec B Mounts. (nice ride) With that, I have the Cobb Stage 2 lowering kit (springs and endlinks). Front and Rear (new generation) Cobb Sway Bars....Super Fun. Cusco front and rear tower bars....less torsional stress on the sub frame (please keep in mind you will still hear the creaks as the sun roof if applicable, weakens the dynamics of the car on the top end and hard to get rid of). I hope I explained that correctly so that everyone understands? Cusco has a ton of other under the car mods to help create more support and rigidity. Another thing to consider and this is something that i heard from a fellow wagon lover - Is the usage of stiffer tranny mounts to support harder driving conditions and smother power transfers. Check the forums to find out more. Exhaust wise: I run a full Stainless Steel Perrin Exhaust 3" diameter with up pipe and down pipe. The rear cans produce a SICK SOUND at higher RPM's. Too loud for the average subaru guy/gal who is looking for a more sport tone sound. (Although there is a silencer kit which doesn't reduce performance for this option). I myself am addicted to the sound of my wagon full out while passing M3's and g35's on the road at top speeds......No one can compare the grumble of the horizontally opposed Boxer Engine. To get that same sound out of a Porsche is next to impossible - not to mention expensive. Be safe, have fun, and thrash on as many mitsu's as possible. J-Cobb out!
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