mra32

I didn't see any PM in my inbox, but I will clarify my request if it helps. No worries if you aren't interested but I want to make sure you understand my offer. If you were to separate these, the shipping would be much much less than $100 for just the springs and spacers (probably about 1/3 of that) and I would be willing to pay more than $100 total to get it all here here. I pay something like $135, You throw out everything else and get all of your space back and you end up with the same money in your pocket. Let me know if this or some version of this works. I understand you not wanting to ship, and perhaps this is a good middle ground for both of us. Again, no worries if not.

Would buy the springs and spacers if you are willing to separate and ship. Name your price.

Just FYI for anyone interested, the doors are the same between the sedan and the wagon, the only difference is the rear door glass. There is more glass at the top rear corner on a wagon.

These are now sold

I attached the parts diagram from Energy suspension with the assembly of the bushings and crossmember circled to clear up any confusion which bushings I am offering for sale

BUMP I will throw in the Whiteline inserts that go in the back differential bushings, KDT927. one leg is broken off the rest of it, but its just an insert and it should still fill the void whether its attached to the rest of it or not. I dont know where the washers are for this, I'll try to find them but mine stayed in without washers for nearly a decade

This may or may not be the right place for this but I removed my exhaust this weekend and the gasket between the downpipe and the rest of the exhaust disintegrated. I know you are supposed to replace gaskets, but I didnt really think about it. I have the 3" flange at that connection and I was using a Vibrant 1458 3" 2 bolt gasket. This is a widely available gasket but not locally when you need to get your car back together. I was able to use a gasket from GM trucks at the catalytic converter connection. It was a 2 bolt gasket a little bit bigger than 3" and its not a perfect fit, but my exhaust is sealed now. It required a little trimming and new holes drilled but it was literally the only way for me to get an exahust gasket - no local stores had any sheets of exhaust gasket material, and nobody stocked the Vibrant gasket. I used a Fel-Pro 61561 for the 3" downpipe 2 bolt flange. Another brand of the same gasket is Walker 31574. This requires some modification, but will get you back on the road if you are in a bind like me. I found some other potential options but nothing that was stocked locally. I attached a picture of the gasket next to the flange

Bump! Weather is getting nicer and this is one of the easier bushings to do to tighten up the driveline!

Selling a set of Rear Diff Front outrigger bushings from an Energy Suspension kit 19.1105G. This kit is only available with both the forward and rearward bushings, in contrast to most aftermarket options. This was the only way for me to get polyurethane rear diff bushings that didnt have an outer sleeve. This would be the Energy Suspension equivalent of a Whiteline KDT905, which I already have installed, hence, no need for this. I have actually been switching some of my Whiteline bushings to other brands over the last couple years and honestly if I had a clean slate to install this or the Whiteline ones, I would install these. I have grown to dislike all the weird stuff Whiteline does on the ID of the polyurethane parts. Persistent problems have gone away when I replaced the Whiteline bushings with other polyurethane bushings. That said, I think this outrigger bushing is probably a low risk area and that weird knurling they have on their bushing is probably fine and I will continue to use it. These are brand new, just trying to split the difference with someone who might need these bushings. Picture attached is what you receive. $40 Shipped, or send me a reasonable offer.

I am doing a few more rear subframe bushings and found out the following regarding a these bushings. The bushings that mount the rear subframe to the body of the car seem to be a little hard to find, and ultimately I went with Powerflex for these and the rear diff rearward bushings. Powerflex will tell you the subframe to body bushings will not fir the BL/BP but they do fit and they are listed on the BL/BP webpage even though its not on the diagram. Use these at your own peril Powerflex Body to Rear Subframe Bushings: PFR69-417 elgin.owens had a few helpful posts regarding this bushing in this application here: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/rear-subframe-bushings-254353p2.html I also found after the fact that energy suspension offers polyurethane bushings for this application as well: 19.4102G for black and 19.4102R for red. These are cheaper and if you are averse to the color purple or want to deal with a company from the US (this comes up in a minute, bear with me). I happen to like purple and these are probably the most hidden bushings on the car, so color isnt a big deal. For the Rear Diff Rearward bushings, I got the Powerflex PFR69-416, which is actually listed for the car, but I cannot recommend these bushings at the moment. These bushings, with the inner sleeve installed are about 0.010" too small on the OD. I called Powerflex here in the states and they have to forward this to the parent company in the UK before i get a response. Since all these bushings are cast, I would think that all of these, at least from the last run are the same size. I tried the subframe to body bushing in this hole since subaru designed this bushing with the common 59.50mm housing and that one fit great, and those bushings with the sleeve installed measured 59.65 to 59.80mm Again I am waiting to hear back from Powerflex but I would be pretty upset about this if I wasn't doing this on a spare subframe and had to get the car back together to go to work or drive my kid to daycare. Also, quick tip for rear subframe bushings: I used a modified version of my tried and true method to get bushings out when not using a press. The way that usually works for me is holesaw the center out from both sides, sawzall through the shell, hit the shell out. Most suspension bushings will take about 5 min each this way and use pretty normal tools. Since the subframe bushing is so long and the center sleeve is so large, a holesaw isnt really useful. You can heat up the inside of the sleeve until the rubber starts to sizzle, push the center tube through the now slick rubber, then cut through the shell and hit it out.

Just to update this thread; I had the exact thing happen to mine today (Plastic barrel broke and it didnt stay in the slot) and I fixed it for free. Disclaimer: I am a Mechanical Engineer with access to a full machine shop. Thanks so much for the detailed description and pictures it really helped me out. I had enough of the broken barrel to get the dimensions off of it so I could machine a new one. Snapped it on and put it in the groove, added more grease to the front of the track and everything worked like it should.

Hah, great innovation, nice work! I use my truck frame as a fulcrum when breaking the bead on my motorcycle tires. I still think the holesaw + sawzall is a great option to remove. It negates the need to have a pocket to press the already installed bushing into. This helps especially with thin walled steel bushing housings. A good number of aftermarket poly bushings dont need a press to be installed either so it makes this a home job in those cases.

When I pressed my whiteline bushings into my aluminum control arm, I think there was considerable force required on the front control arm bushings. I'm certain my large arbor press couldnt have done it, and i doubt my medium sized vises could do it. Maybe with some heat, but that seems a little scary to me.

I cant remember if I employed this method when i did the front control arm bushings but my method was to cut the core out with a holesaw, trim/score the outer shell and hammer it out. That was getting them out, even having a press at my disposal. Pressing them in, I did use a press, but I will remind you, a press is just one part of the equation, I used a whole bunch short lengths of steel tubing, round stock, etc to get the setup just right so i could actually use the press, so the price of a press is just one thing. Its the star of the show, but i doubt a press alone could get it done. Also consider the setup required for the front bushing. Your press needs to be of sufficient size to house the whole control arm. Anyway, this should be an easy job for a competent shop, so maybe call around some more, ask your locals. I dont know what the going rate is but the cost of a the cheaper HF presses sounds about right for all 4 front bushings.

I saw the other thread and I had hoped when looking into this there was a silver bullet solution for people wanting both either keep 5x100 when swapping, or easily swap to 5x114.3. I found no such missing link part in my search. When I did my research, it seemed Subaru employs 2 of what I will call 'bolt patterns' on rear hubs for the vehicles designed as a derivative of the BP/BL chassis and beyond. There is the small bolt pattern that we have and the larger bolt pattern that the STis use. I found no example of a 5x114.3 using the small bolt pattern (which is why machining the trailing arm to fit these hubs seems like a decent choice), but I did in fact see some cars with 5x100 employing a 'large bolt pattern' rear hub, suggesting that for those cars there could be a parts bin upgrade to 5x114.3. The next generation legacy (BM/BR) is one of these cars. I didnt really look into that though. I have some spare front hubs off my car laying around and I could try pressing the inner part out, but that doesnt really help me too much about the rear, other than feasibility in being able to disassemble the preassembled hub/bearing units. A few more thoughts on hubs: Given the hub housing fits in the same bore between STi hub and the 'smaller' hubs we have, I would think the only way to increase longevity of the bearings would be to increase the width of hub (using wider rollers inside the bearing) which actually appears to have been done with the newer impreza hub I suggested. I wonder if these hubs have about the same resistance to wear the STi hubs do. That being said, my rear hubs have 80k mi on them and if they started making noise tomorrow, I wouldnt exactly be upset with that lifespan, so while I can understand seeking greater strength components, my personal use hasn't driven me down a path to seek to increase the strength on that component, especially when they arent that hard to change. I have spare trailing arms to mess around with and a machine shop to play in...but I havent yet seen a reason to set the trailing arm up to drill it out for the large bolt pattern hub.