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GTEASER

I Donated Too
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  • Location
    Castle Rock, CO
  • Car
    2003 BMW 330i ZHP and 2007 Lexus GX470
  • Interests
    Cars, Woodworking, Hiking and Kayaking
  • Occupation
    Park Planner

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  • User Title
    Teaser of the G

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  1. Yes, it's possible, I've misaligned them thinking they were correct several times on the first try.
  2. Looks like a busted clutch fork. Definitely a weak point on manual Subarus especially with a lot of miles. Sorry to hear.
  3. Yeah, that looks overextended, like you accidentally blew the slave cylinder piston out of the cylinder when bleeding the system, maybe. Unbolt the slave cylinder from the bellhousing, I bet the little rod came out of the depression in the center of the cylinder and is cockeyed in there, make sure its all lined up correctly. Don't drop the rod into the bellhousing by accident .....ask me how I know.
  4. At the bellhousing where the clutch fork goes in, is the little rod between the slave cylinder and clutch fork in the correct position, centered in the dimple of the clutch fork?
  5. But you still have sun load sensor on the dashboard, that little round bump.
  6. Let us know what you think and how the clutch feels with the damper out. I suspect you will love it!
  7. I wonder if the sun load senser (for auto lights) is fried. Or maybe he has a dash mat that is covering up the sun load sensor.
  8. Daytime running lights are the inboard (high beam) bulb running at low voltage. These should be on all the time when the car is running, in gear, and the parking brake is released. The low beam is the outboard bulb. It should turn on, and the DRL should turn off, when you switch the lights on.
  9. Are your lenses 100% clear and polished? Or are they oxidized and foggy?
  10. What does the underside look like? Lots of rust or pretty clean? Maybe post some pics?
  11. The damper, or delay valve, is designed to slip the clutch a little upon engagement. It delays the full positive engagement of the pressure plate to minimize driveline shock and make engagement smoother for those unfamiliar with working a clutch. The side effects of it's presence are several... 1) will wear you clutch disc faster due to the slight slippage it induces (verified a member during a conversation with South Bend), 2) causes the engagement point felt in the clutch pedal to be inconsistent, can be described as a floating engagement point which is different with every engagement, 3) because of this floating engagement point, can make even the most seasoned manual drivers to feel like rookies during spirited driving with quick up and down shifts, and 4) can make smooth heel/toe downshifts nearly impossible. Also, at least one member has had the damper burst while driving, leaving him stranded and ruining his dress pants and wing-tip dress shoes when it puked hydraulic fluid all over them. If you are in there messing with all those pipes and re-bleeding the system, I would highly recommend getting the damper out of there. It's literally right there. Remove it. The thread that you mentioned has the part number and instructions to replace it with an OEM coupler.
  12. Hey! Yes, still have the E46 ZHP Sedan which I rarely drive and I'm actually considering selling to get an E91 (wagon) 6MT, preferably RWD, but XDrive would work as well. The GX470 is my daily and it just turned over 216k miles.
  13. Sorry to hear but glad you're okay. I do still miss mine. My eyes light up a little and I get nostalgic every time I see a 5th Gen in white.
  14. Nope, that's pretty much what it is. No easy way to access other than laying on your back and tiny turns of the wrench. If you can get a 2nd hand up in there, sometimes it helps to hold the line aligned with the female side of the fitting and you can spin the flare with your fingers if its already backed off a few threads. Are you doing a clutch damper delete? I did the one on my car in addition to helping out 2 other members doing them on their cars. You do learn some tricks but nothing super helpful.
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