Reuben

Phase-II of the make Blighter staunch project underway! Picked these skirts off a GT wagon last week. I love whoe subie sedans and wagons of a generation having the same wheel base thing!!! First I gotta remove my poverty spec mudflaps desigened to fit skirtless cars... IMG_5130 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr Wash the dirt off and hit it with some degreaser IMG_5131 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr Then hit it with the Meguiars Ultimate Compound, ******* excellent stuff. Sadly they have rubbed into the paint over the last 28 years. What can one do. Will dab over the exposed metal with a paint pen when I can. IMG_5133 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr Next up, start the drilling! Thankfully there's a paint line where the underbody seal stops right around the same place the holes should be, so I could use that for the vertical placement of the holes. Longitudinal placement was easy, just mock the skirt up on the sill and mark it out. Managed to get it pretty accurate. IMG_5126 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr IMG_5127 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr Like a bawss!! IMG_5128 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr IMG_5129 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr IMG_5134 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr So, all that's left to do is wash them (I will re-paint them in the summer), drill the holes for the nut certs on the underside of the sill, and bolt em up!!

Sure are. Find your local auto electrical supplier, and see what they have, or hit the junk yards. You might want a decent 80w+ soldering iron if you want to solder on connectors from a junk yard. Crimping new connectors is probably the better option.

Details of the car (chassis, year, engine)(We can't assume it is the car in your profile you're talking about). What o2 sensors have you been using, all second hand? From the right model? Find the aplicable factory service manual for your car and find the flow chart for that P code, you'll find in there instructions on how to check the wiring, if you suspect the cars wiring to be at fault. But before any of that, I would start by just buying a brand new, genuine (only genuine, do not touch aftermarket for o2's), and fit that. Don't forget o2's are extremely delecate sensors, simply dropping it from half a foot onto concrete is enough to kill one. If you spray wd40 all over it, that can also kill it (there's little holes in the body of the sensor that it uses to breathe, if you get oil in there, can be curtains for the sensor.)

Autumn nearly over, and my new lip mounted. IMG_5125 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr IMG_5111 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr IMG_5095 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr IMG_5097 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr

Yeah, big pet peeve of mine as a mechanic, seeing steering and braking neglected. They totally transform how the car feels on the road too, it's one of those fixes that are quite rewarding, as you FEEL the result! But some just can't feel the problem in the first place I guess. All my cars are fricken SORTED in the steering and brake department, they all feel quite direct and responsive, it's a good feels.

Very nice! You're a good way there! She looks pretty straight too...

Bumping the ol sedan thread. Today I gave the Blighter a wash, chamois, then hit it with mothers instant detailer. I need to do a full cut again, it's been 7 years since my last full 3-step on this thing! My my how time passes. But she still shine sup with the simple stuff. IMG_5070 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr IMG_5071 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr IMG_5072 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr

Yup, my fave wheels to date on my BC are the BBS mesh wheels I have, bloody love em. They are a different deisgn language, but are oh so period correct, and just suit the style.

This car is awesome! Love it, and love that it gets driven properly, yet is kept so tidy. Perfection!

Because first gens are awesome, what are you doing in this subforum with thinking like that! Wheels with square cut spokes look sick on first gens, they match the brick like design language. There's Technocasts, and speedlines for that. I also think a good BBS mesh suits these things ultra nice. Speedlines on the rally cars in the 90's! Or the classic 6-spoke speedline http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r41/padraic555/legacy.jpg And that design is also available in a split-spoke style Classic JDM Technocasts, available in 17" also of course (i once had a pair of 17's) JDM BBS Mesh wheels as seen factory on BG's in 16" (optianal), or for the facelift the same design was avail as a 17" too. IMG_9644 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr IMG_9635 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr The ultra rare 17" option (they do pop up on croooober from time to time, but would be a good 1-2K once delivered to the states) IMG_2909 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr For other ideas, here's my winter wheels, JDM 2.0R 4th gen wheels (may have been USDM as well?) IMG_9212 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr Or you could go late model and just rock it, these wheels are also USDM. IMG_4622 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr

He's a nice guy! Was fun having a few drinks with him, and gettin the running commentary from the people watching

Sup guys... It's been a while... IMG_4656 by Reuben Horsley, on Flickr

I <3 snow. http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa208/Pilot_Reuben/IMG_7658.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa208/Pilot_Reuben/IMG_7683.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa208/Pilot_Reuben/IMG_7751.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa208/Pilot_Reuben/IMG_7778.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa208/Pilot_Reuben/IMG_7772.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa208/Pilot_Reuben/IMG_7834.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa208/Pilot_Reuben/IMG_7851.jpg

Mine passed the 100,000 mile mark a few weeks ago. Or 160,000KM in kiwi currency Time for a big service me things, that's 150,000K on the chassis and gearbox, with 50,000K on my new engine. Time for some new gearbox oil, new spark plugs, heck, I need new brakes while I'm at it... I've got my eyes set on some red 4-pots :3