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TwinkE

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  • Location
    Severn, MD
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    2020 GT350
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    Computers
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    Code Monkey

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  1. I didn't like the impression of hit or miss with the Chinese replacements and there wasn't one available for my 2007 at the time. The gauges are dependent on the model year of your car, 2007 was about the earliest available for the Legacy. Depending on the computer changes between the years, it could work and give you some data, but I wouldn't be able to tell you that right now. I don't have the car anymore so I can't tell you all the gauges, but I put the most useful ones (in my opinion) on those screens. The center one is limited to a subset of all the gauges but I didn't find that restricting. If you can find a used one, jump on it, otherwise try find one with a good return policy:)
  2. I only installed it yesterday, but I like it a lot. The only thing it gets me besides the SWC is the gauges, and I'll pay the extra $40 over just the SWC module for the bling. I'm bone stock so I don't have an Accessport but it shows me the numbers that I dream of seeing from an AP. With the Ford, you should get much better integration than on my Spec B. My install thread is here, there are some more gauge shots and a couple crappy quality vids in it too.
  3. Radio - Kenwood DDX-794 SWC - iDatalink Maestro Rr Paint - Flat Black, Satin clear coat Here's mine painted black with satin clear. Initial install: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258895&stc=1&d=1511747250 Hazard switch + SWC: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258888&stc=1&d=1511744403
  4. I wasn't feeling particularly lucky, so I just routed all the connectors outside the console to test out everything and sync the Maestro to the Kenwood. I connected the Kenwood first, then the black Maestro to the Kenwood connector, then the main Maestro harness, then the Yellow/Black power to the Maestro. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258884&stc=1&d=1511744403 Turned the car on and everything appears to work http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258885&stc=1&d=1511744403 I'm not sure what would happen if I disconnected the Maestro from the Kenwood, so I just disconnected the OBD2 splitter and fished the wire across the drivers side to the fuse panel. I had to take the metal piece off under the steering wheel to get enough space to route the splitter, that was not fun since it's so bulky. I took the time to remove the microphone and button that integrates with the factory nav since I don't use that anymore. I turned the car on, here's a picture of my gauges about a minute after starting http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258887&stc=1&d=1511744403 Gauges at idle after the car was warmed up http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258888&stc=1&d=1511744403 Second screen of gauges around the same time http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258889&stc=1&d=1511744403 Here's a crappy video of accelerating out of my neighborhood in Sport http://twinke.com/maestro/07-Part_Throttle-Sport.mp4 Here's a video of accelerating uphill onto the highway in Sport# http://twinke.com/maestro/08-WOT-Sport_Sharp.mp4 Here's my steering wheel control settings for anyone interested http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258892&stc=1&d=1511746311
  5. Today I finished the install of the Maestro Rr with my Kenwood DDX-794. It was pretty straightforward with only 7 wires needing to be connected. Initial idea for using the Rr came from this thread on Nabisco. I bought the Maestro Rr from Amazon along with an OBD2 Splitter. It took me about 6 hours to program the stupid thing. Almost all the time was updating my wife's old windows laptop that was last updated in January of 2014. After that I still couldn't program it, the plugin for Internet Explorer couldn't talk to the Maestro. I switched to Chrome and used IE Tab, for some reason this allowed the plugin to talk to the Maestro and it programmed right the first time. The splitter fits into the stock place with just a little bit of filing: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258835&stc=1&d=1511739917 Bracket in place. The connectors on the ends of the splitter are different. This picture shows the end you should tap the wires on: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258836&stc=1&d=1511739917 Tapping the OBD2 splitter. I don't have the strippers that stretch the insulator apart so I have to go old school and slice off the excess for tapping. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258837&stc=1&d=1511739917 All tapped out - The Brown/Red wire goes to the green wire on top, the Brown/Yellow goes to the green wire on the bottom http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258838&stc=1&d=1511739917 I used the harness from svxdc, so I connected the wires with black together. Black/White -> Brown/Black Purple/Red -> Brown/Red http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258839&stc=1&d=1511739917 The red wire isn't needed in this connector so I used a small screwdriver to push down on the metal connector and pull the wire out. Use the Gray/Red on the main Maestro harness for accessory power instead. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258840&stc=1&d=1511739917 I hooked in the Yellow and Black from the power connector and the Gray/Red from the Maestro harness into the stereo harness for power. I then taped the power/ground connections and Tesa taped the harness to look prettier. Here are the harnesses taped and ready to go into the car(I Tesa taped the black/yellow Maestro wires when it was in the car). http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258841&stc=1&d=1511739917
  6. I went straight for Meguiars 105/205 when I did mine. I may have been able to use something less aggressive initially, but caring wasn't high on my list for that, I just wanted it done. Hopefully you can get a bunch done with something lighter. I wasn't sure how well the 2 bucket would work afterwards, but I'm happy with it so far. I was considering using multiple wash pads, but so far I'm pretty happy with my meguiars microfiber mitt and the 2 bucket. The foam gun/cannon(whichever I'm in the mood for) as a presoak seems to do well for maintenance wash. That being said, I only finished my correction about 3 weeks ago. I forgot how good the car looks when it's clean and waxed.
  7. Just took some long trips for work this past week and my B odometer reset at 10k, I think I was at about 23.4(that was the last I saw it at before it reset itself). There are too many hills on my normal commute and I get worse mileage when I set it to I. Lately(last 1-2k miles) I've been driving around everywhere with the cruise set and I've been getting 25-26 ish. This past trip(99% highway) I'm at 29.1 for the last 569 miles. I always have it set to Sport and use the cruise control religiously.
  8. The no fogs/high beams happens when you don't reconnect the white connector to the module.
  9. Anyone know how these H7's compare to something like the apexcone HID kit?
  10. Just did this today, took about 10 minutes. First, unhook the white connector from the DRL module. http://twinke.com/Pictures/DRL/DRLModule.JPG On the back side(flat end) there are two indents on the outside. Put a screwdriver in the indent and pop up the tab that goes all the way across the connector. Before: http://twinke.com/Pictures/DRL/ConnectorLocked.JPG After: http://twinke.com/Pictures/DRL/ConnectorUnlocked.JPG Remove the electrical tape that's closest to the connector so you can move the wires around. Now it takes a little effort. Push the blue with black stripe wire forward into the connector(only goes a little bit) then put a small flat screwdriver into the end of the hole below the metal connector. Push the screwdriver towards the metal connector and the wire should just pull out. Tape it up and you're done. http://twinke.com/Pictures/DRL/PinOut.JPG If you don't push the wire forward into the connector, the wire won't unlatch from the connector and you'll just waste your time.
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