WellsMcKenzie

Well, I was finally able to cut out the rear control arm bolts with an angle grinder. Got the bolts from Subaru for like $13. Jacking up the rear support arm made the camber bolt line right up. So it made that a lot easier to insert. Everything looks good, just needs an alignment now. http://i.imgur.com/hlDgxE4.jpg http://i.imgur.com/piFowbf.jpg http://i.imgur.com/xvfmPc5.jpg

With all new parts, half sourced from Amazon, half sourced from subaruparts.com, I spent about $1200. Parts list includes, springs, struts, control arms, bumpstops, strut boots, control arm bushings, strut mounts, rear spacers, and some new tools. I haven't replaced the control arms yet because I can't get them off. So that price doesn't include my alignment because I can't get one yet. Total I will probably have spent a little over 1300. But man, after driving it to work, and a little spirited driving after work, it was worth every dime. It looks perfect to me and it handles 20 times better than my blown outback struts. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

So I was able to swap all the new parts in, except for the rear LGT control arms. The bolt and nut are so stuck that I broke my breaker bar on it. Also there is no leverage to get that thing out. I guess I need to rear sway bar off or something. Anywho, the car is lowered, all the parts were brand new, and I couldn't be happier with the ride. Here is the final ride http://i.imgur.com/3RkDKjQ.jpg And all the before and after pics. (some didn't come out as well as expected because of the harsh sunlight) http://i.imgur.com/70WD9CP.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ckcZDjn.jpg http://i.imgur.com/whXCxsP.jpg http://i.imgur.com/rqrcEQv.jpg http://i.imgur.com/grJx8VJ.jpg http://i.imgur.com/cjWMUSo.jpg http://i.imgur.com/v4fmMKU.jpg

Just bit the bullet and I have KYB front and rear struts, new bumpstops and mounts, some new tools, springs, control arms, bumpstops, whiteline camber kit, and 1/2" spacers + longer bolts on the way. All the parts are brand new, either from amazon (KYB) or Subaru directly. I don't think I've really seen anyone say they have gone with all new parts yet. So excited to get off this near 100,000 mile stock outback suspension.http://i.imgur.com/7zrrH3g.jpg

If I had to guess, it's because the claw on the hooks knocks the female plugs in the firewall around. It's not the plastic hitting plastic that causes the rattle, it's the dashboard moving the plastic against the firewall. Grinding it down got rid of the rattle, insulating all the metal and plastic did absolutely nothing. Also, trying to put pressure on the dash didn't fix anything for me before I did this.

It's been warm out lately, and I decided to re attempt fixing my dashboard since I thought laziness would fix it. I actually ground down all of the plugs with an air powered grinder and an air drill with a rotary file. I am 100% free of rattles in my Outback XT and couldn't be happier. Thanks for posting this. Probably never would have fixed this problem if I hadn't come across the original post.

So I took it all apart, getting the dash apart and out took about 1.5 hrs and cleaning the plugs, getting them out, taping them up and putting foam on the back side and taping up the male ends of the connectors was about 30 min, and 1.25 hrs to put back together. I still have a rattle. I thought I taped stuff up well. It's definitely not the plug that's rattling, because that thing might never come out again. Wish I knew what caused the rattle. I guess when your turbo shaft breaks your dash rattles. Go figure. Also, does anyone know whether or not you can drive a car without the dashboard? Since the airbag isn't connected would that cause problems? I really should've drove it first. All that work for nothing. Here is a nice wide angle shot of the car without the dash. I put gorilla tape on the firewall. This shit is pretty thick. I used foam tape on the plugs, then put one layer of gorilla tape all the way around (not pictured). Keeping track of all my parts, placing them in the order I took them out. Use the proper tools if you don't want to break clips. The interior panel puller tool are so useful. I didn't even damage my plastidip. The rubber mallet was for shoving the plugs back in, because the tape made them really tight.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkyxez2qi9I] [/ame] So I guess this is quieter on my computer than on my phone, but the second part comes through better, and with headphones it's pretty audible. In person it's way louder. I'm hoping this dash rattle goes away with this fix. Going to take everything apart tomorrow and wrap all those plugs and connectors up with gorilla tape and/or foam tape. I just had my Turbo and shortblock replaced within a week ago and they noticed my lower control arm bushings were shot. Once they replaced them, my dash started rattling like crazy. I'll get some wide pictures of the dash out when I'm done.

Did you ever install everything? I actually had the questions run through my head as I was looking into the KYB Legacy GT struts and wasn't sure about the strut covers.

That makes sense. Lots of cheap cables use tiny wires, any pulling could break the cables internally. Update without a GLI. I drove home from Seattle to Portland without a GLI and I had my phone plugged in. I got a high pitched alternator whine in the city streets, but I turned down the treble and I couldn't hear it anymore. I still wouldn't say a GLI is necessary for any type of unpowered devices. And even if you do plug them in, you can get around alternator noise. Once my phone charged up the alternator whine was gone.

I decided to run it without the GLI and I have no sound issues. Even when I drive with my iPhone 5s hooked up to my USB lighter adapter and play audio. I hear no interference or buzzing. You might just bypass the GLI and see how the sound quality is for you.

Definitely possible. Take a look at the circuit board, maybe something burnt out. From what I understand these things are pretty simple, it's just contacts, solder points and resistors. I wish I knew the schematics because I really wanted to order the parts and make one myself.

Dspurgin22, I would check with different RCA cables and a different audio player. There could be dirty contacts, but it sounds like something isn't plugged in all the way. Oh okay. Maybe he just hasn't sent it out yet. Hopefully I get it next week. I guess I just need to run the wiring for my subwoofer and try to keep myself busy.

Just ordered the basic kit a couple days ago. Hoping it comes in the mail soon. I plastidipped some interior parts and forgot about how I could mess them up if I have to remove them. So my interior is in pieces until I get this. How long did it take for you guys to get it? I was hoping for shipping information to come through to me but I guess he doesn't just supply it with the order.

Okay, so I don't need to change the top hats or my struts and it should lower my car about half an inch if I read that right. I'm assuming the WRX springs will feel more responsive and be less of a squishy ride, which is what I want.