CBRRICH

I would just add that since replacing this inlet pipe, performance has improved considerably, most of the stumble on acceleration is gone, and the mileage has gone up ~ 3 mpg. Looking at the pipe you can see why.

I was having poor mileage and a stumble on acceleration for a long time and could not figure it out. I suspected a vacuum leak but could not find one. Finally, I was poking around the turbo inlet under the intake manifold and found the inlet pipe had deteriorated. After replacing, performance improved considerably, almost all the stumble was gone, and mileage went up 2-3 MPG. I'm sure others have found this and it is covered on other threads but I thought I would add it here, hope it helps.

I was able to do it without removing the Manifold. First of all, take good notes/pictures of where the hoses go and how they are routed, it will save you time at assembly. Second, my car is a 2005 with 212K and many of the original rubber vacuum hoses have become hard and brittle and a few broke. Be prepared to replace them and it would be a good idea to buy them ahead of time. Here is how I did it and what I learned: Removal 1. Remove engine cover, and intercooler. 2. Remove the Intake hose and the two bolts that secure the intake duct assembly (IDA) and Duty Solenoid and bracket. Remove the (3) electrical connections and as many hoses as needed to get it out of the way. Note which hose goes where and mark them, once out note the routing of the hoses above or below the IDA. Remove the two small hoses connect to the front of the IDA. 3. Disconnect Throttle body and orange connector on same harness and the vacuum line that runs to the brake booster to get them out of the way. 4. Remove the 3 bolts that secure blow off hose and plastic vacuum manifold (PVM) at the rear of the intake manifold, remove plastic manifold by sliding the short hose off the IDA and unplugging the both ends from hoses that go to the hoses that go to either head. These were very brittle and I broke one, I suggest you buy them both ahead of time (~$23). I was able to reuse the short hose coming from the PVM but I would replace it if I knew how stiff it was. 4. Loosen the hose clamp to the TC inlet, you can now rotate the IDA to make things easier. Reach in with long needle nose and release the clamp on the blow off hose (BOH) and remove it. Note: clamp has locking feature that allows you to release the clamp pressure, slide off the BOH, and make it easy to reinstall. If you can't get it to lock, just keep pressure on the clamp and wiggle it free and lock it before you install it. 5. Remove the electrical connector next to the hose that comes from the PCV line which will also free the hose. Reach under the harness with a small screwdriver to press in the tab and free the harness from the IDA. The IDA should come out now with some wiggling. This took about 30 minutes. Reassembly was pretty much the reverse, I put some silicone grease on hoses to make things go together a little easier. 1. Wiggle the new IDA into place making sure you don't push hoses that go to the Duty Solenoid into the wrong places (ask me how I know) and slide on to the TC inlet. 2. Attach the PCV line and BOH (release the locking clamp). Install the PVM with the short hose attached and connect to the IDA, plug in the ends and install the (2) bolts to secure it and the one bolt for the BOH. Reconnect electrical harnesses to Throttle body and orange connector (?) and brake booster hose. 3. Install the Duty Solenoid and associate hoses. Another casualty was the small hoses leading to the white disk shaped item (Pressure Sensor Filter?) they were brittle and broke. 4. Tighten the clamp on the IDA at the TC inlet, Install the Intake hose. 5. Install IC and engine cover. As always, Installation takes more time than the removal. I got hung up with hose routing and connections so that wasted time but I would bank 2-2.5 hours to do this though you may be able to pull it off in as little as 1.5 hours if all goes well (and when does that happen?). Let me know if you think anything needs clarifying. Hoses I would order before doing this, you may consider doing all of them just to be sure: 99071AC310 8074035429 9071AC010 99071AC240 99071AC260

Thanks for the feedback, I'll let you know how it goes.

The hose that attaches to the intake of the turbocharger on my 05 GT has developed a tear and needs replacing. The manual gives a lengthy process to remove the intake manifold in order to access it involving disconnecting the fuel system and draining the coolant. Has anyone tried to replace this hose by removing the bolts that secure the manifold to the TGV intakes and lift the manifold just far enough to disconnect the lines (looks like 4) from the branches of the Intake Hose and replace it?

Today it was working a stuck caliper. I don't have a garage so weather matters and I live North of Boston but that is the next thing to eliminate what is not the issue using the troubleshooting tree. I was considering trying to add leads from the cockpit to the rear sensors to use an AC volt read out on a VOM to see if they have an output while moving. Then if one or both is bad, replace those and then go after the C0111 but I don't think they should be related but you never know.

Thanks for the tip, it looks really impressive and the initial cost is good but there is a $80/year subscription fee. If I was a professional, I'm sure that would pay for itself but for the (hopefully) rare occasional use, I think there may be more cost effective units. I was looking at BlueDriver anyone had experience with that?

Thanks Max for hanging in there with me on this "quest". Here is what I found about testing Active sensors (which I believe that is what this is): Active Wheel Speed Sensors Active wheel speed sensors use two look the same as passive sensors, but they are much more accurate at lower speeds. Active sensors output a digital signal, a DC square wave signal. To test this type of sensor you’ll need a scan tool which can communicate with the ABS module, or a DVOM which can graph a digital voltage signal. I am somewhat tool limited not having an ABS tool that can read real time sensor, erase codes or a DVOM with graphing (I would suspect that is a modern equivalent of an oscilloscope). I tried the link you sent me, was there something specific that shows how to replace just the relay in the ABS module? The first LGT thread has a different code (P0500 vs my C0111).

Tehnation noted the relay may be driving this, can the relay be replaced separately? It appears to be part of the ABSCM&H/U assembly (ABS(diag)-59).

Thanks for all your help. First point: Since these codes are supposed to be "self clearing", If I read them with jumper in the fuse box I should assume that none are "Historic" and have been created the last time I drove it? Second point: I just rebuilt the entire rear end replacing all 14 bushings, rusted brake backing plates, struts/shocks, and new rear wheel bearing from SKF. However, the ABS light was on throwing these 3 codes before I started so I don't think the bearings are an issue, others have used SKF bearings without issues: C0101 (Rear Right ABS Sensor Circuit Open or Shorted Battery) C0102 (Rear Left ABS Sensor Circuit Open or Shorted Battery) C0111 (Motor/motor relay on failure) The lead up was the ABS would come on intermittently, sometimes I could turn the key off and on while moving and it would reset for 20 minutes then come on again. Now it occasionally goes out but only for short periods. Also the diagnostics for C0101/2 (ABS(diag)-40) require an oscilloscope (step 6) and clearing the memory (step 7) but I can try the other steps but it usually is the sensors that go. One other thing I noticed from the wiring diagram is that the rear sensors have a common connector (ABS (diag)-38), not sure where to find it on the car?

I have replaced LR in 2014, again in 2021 and the RR IN 2017 , they were ~$70 each so I want to be sure which one is the problem before just replacing parts until I find the bad one. It is unlikely both went bad at the same time. Also the module has a code as well. That is why I would like to clear the ABS codes and see which one(s) return. How do you check the sensors?

No luck, I have ordered (2) different OBD/ABS tools both of which could not read (nor clear) my 2005 (Innova 3020RS and 5110). To recap, I was successful in reading the codes using the jumper but need to clear them to be sure I am troubleshooting the right code (3 codes are currently showing). Anyone used any other scanners they can recommend that successfully read and cleared the ABS codes for a 2005 GT?

Recently I did a timing belt, Water Pump, and Thermostat. Car has been running fine, Temperature gage right in the middle. Shortly after, I noticed on cooldown the top radiator hose would collapse. I topped it up multiple times to eliminate as much air as possible. I noticed the bottle is still at the "Full" line where it was when I filled the system and has not moved up or down (when cold) suggesting that not much movement of coolant there. I bought a new OEM radiator cap for the radiator, still doing it. I disconnected the overflow line from the radiator filler neck to eliminate the possibility of a plug in the overflow pipe, no change. Collapsing hose, new radiator cap, water pump and Tstat are all OEM Subaru parts. Now I'm stumped: If the radiator cap is supposed to backflow to relieve a vacuum and return overflow coolant to the radiator why is the hose collapsing?

Have not found a way to clear ABS codes so I ordered a OBDII reader on Amazon that can read/erase ABS codes for ~$45 used. Hopefully after clearing the codes, one of the 3 will reappear.

Thanks, I'll give it a try.