jackfortune

yes....that's how we do it people!

I have run M1 0W40 European formula, AMSOIL, and other high quality oils....they do make a difference. However, that being said, with these turbo cars it is better to change the oil more frequently. If your lab says your oil is still good until 7000 miles, that does not mean another engine/turbo will replicate your results. Why roll the dice? It is severe service, after all. Compared to the cost of repairs, replacement, and labor, oil and filters are inexpensive. Driving patterns, turbo warm-up cycle, ambient temperatures all play significant roles. For instance, using 5W30 M1 changed every 3000 miles, a commute in Florida on the interstate for 70 miles preceded by a turbo warm-up, produces very little stress on the oil. I have seen VF40's go 150,000 miles with no observable wear in that scenario. In Maine, at 0 F or below, it becomes even more important to do adequate turbo warm-up. If you are uncertain how long to do this, you can use the available software and your laptop computer to observe the engine temperature sensors as the engine warms up.

what's with the long oci's????? the advisory from Subaru calls out 3000 or less for the turbos's.....forget that 5000-7000 stuff....and definitely use a new bolt with filter....not a good idea to stuff the old one back in....

definitely.....up pipe cat must go! get a coated grimmspeed and apply the resisitor fix....this is not primarily for the increased performance .... but to preserve your turbo and engine from catastrophic cat failure....otherwise known as cat/cat....lol

IMHO from experience nothing can beat the original design that never made it to NA....matching JD pinks and Bilsteins. Perfect balance, drop, and handling.

With a vf40 turbo setup (small high pressure orifices, bearing type, etc.) why on earth would you want to pull out the protective screen? Just one of those little metal flakes that sometimes are caught by the screen could score the turbo bearings. Change your oil and filter regularly....use synthetic oil....and a filter designed for the Subaru high pressure oil system....you are golden.

Fortunately, the second banjo bolt (that feeds oil pressure to the driver's side AVCS) is not as significant as the one that feeds the turbo. However, in the unfortunate circumstance that there may have been long OCI's or poor grade oil used by a previous owner, this second one should also be checked/replaced.

Run synthetic with low OCI's, and keep your banjo bolt filter (check and replace the part if you do not a full oil service history on this vehicle)....for street use, do not use any synthetic with higher viscosity than 5W30....Mobil 1 sells a European formula 0W40 that works great in these motors and sells off the shelf in Super Walmarts....the part number for the banjo bolt/filter combination is identified in this forum....but if you can't find it with a google search, pm me with your VIN and I will run it through Subaru FAST (the parts database)...

go with the EDO recommended pinks for your vehicle....use new Bilstein HD's....perfect stance....don't try to reinvent the wheel...lol....bol

flinbmx....go to the JDM original design....Bilstein HD's and matching pinks for your vehicle....use EDO's recommended pinks....perfect stance....slight lowering....and the vehicle handles as originally designed....like a super sports sedan!

2006 LGT.....replaced the stock front struts with Bilstein HD's (probably stiffer than the stock Bilsteins)....order the pinks through EDO: http://shop.edoperformance.com/sti-pink-springs-frontrear-legacy-bspec-p-9387.html (for your vehicle) After reviewing the pinks chart, I ordered this set as recommended by EDO: http://shop.edoperformance.com/sti-pink-springs-frontrear-legacy-p-9386.html (for my 2006 LGT non-SpecB) replaced my front mounts with SpecB.....used stock rear mounts....replaced all other parts with new stock hardware and absorbers..... installation came out perfectly level without using rear shims....cannot say how your SpecB level would come out....but assume it would be the same...a slight lowering all around for my LGT.... Recommend this setup to anyone for a street car....perfectly stable....no lean in corners....good transitions....

The ride is firm and solid. I have about 600 miles on my new setup....Bilstein HD's/pinks. This is the way the car should have come from the factory....but owner/drivers in this country are not used to a firm ride like this....customer surveys indicated the vehicle would not be widely accepted with the original ride engineered for the car (the JDM version). Very rough roads here in Maine, a real test for any suspension. You definitely feel the road more, but the ride tends to smooth out with speed. Handling is superb. Very noticeable improvement in handling and feel when traversing the twisting up and downs on the reverse crown secondaries. Transitions are very smooth....glued to the road.... Another neat aspect is that the car is completely level when done with the right pinks...none of the rear sagging experienced with other setups. No need for rear spring spacers....

Bilstein HD's and pinks....a match made in heaven....lol... .....but true

Just did mine all around with Bilstein HD's and pinks....totally new ride....no bouncing, and the transition on twisting diving turns is incredibly smooth...haven't been able to break it loose yet...haven't found the edge where it will break...ride is a little firmer and you can feel the road more....a super stable ride....it's the JDM ride the car was designed for....replaced the LCA large bushings with AVO's non-offset....definitely recommend these stiffer bushings for an upgraded suspension....replaced the small LCA bushing with AVO's as well....running 22mm Perrin sways....