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BigTDogg MA

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  • Location
    Taxachusetts
  • Car
    2005 LGT 5MT Wagon, 1990 300ZX
  • Interests
    Audio, DJing, Woodworking, oh and Cars, duh!
  • Occupation
    Senior Mechanical Engineer

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  1. PCV Hose kit for the 2005 Legacy GT is 11815AB790, Correct? Thanks gang!
  2. Can the PCV assembly be replaced with the IC off? I just checked and mine is 110k miles old :-/
  3. Hey gang, loooong time since I've been active here, but I know where to go when I do have a question I'm replacing my knock sensor soon, and I'm attempting to do it without removing my throttle body. I would like to replace hoses which are under the IC down in that area since I'm in there. Does anyone have a list of the hoses in there that I should replace? I'm thinking #29, maybe #21 and #22? Any other tips or tricks I should know about this job? I've got long needle nose pliers, bunch of extensions and wobbles, magnetic wands etc and I'm mechanically inclined with the vocabulary of a sailor.
  4. Yooooooo ZOMBIE THREAD!!! Long story short, my LGT sunroof has failed. Resin rod broke, but I haven't checked for blockage yet. Will do. If possible, could you link to the TSB? I did search, which is how I found this thread, and I'll search now on that TSB. But just in case I come up blank. TIA!!
  5. Are these the same size as OEM? I've noticed a lowspeed clicking when turning, and wonder if these are messing with my CV axles. Replaced both axles and the issue persists.
  6. Just did this yesterday, followed the write up as guidance. USDM cars don't have a cable to the exterior handle, there's a solid rod. Easy enough to work around. Didn't have to remove the window, but it takes some patience maneuvering the unit around taking out and reinstalling.
  7. Great write up sir, thank you! did you have to remove the window as per the FSM, or were you able to leave it in?
  8. Thanks but I already bought a new Blouch 16g from my installer. I'm so sick of this car, I just want it to be over. Get the turbo and injectors in and then tune and be done. I just want to drive it without being afraid it's going to blow up and leave me in financial ruins. /vent mode
  9. My power was 271, torque was 299. Mustang dynos read differently and everything so yeah, it was a ball park number. Stocks are 550cc/min
  10. So this is my current build: Apexi dry filter Grimmspeed TMIC VF52 DW65C pump OEM injectors on Agency Power fuel rails STI crank King bearings Manley 99.75 pistons Manley H-Tuff rods STI cams Brian Crower Intake valve set Brian Crower SS exhaust valve set ARP head studs Brian Crower valve springs and retainers Killer B Oil Baffle Killer B Oil Pickup Cometic Subaru EJ25 100mm Bore .030" Head Gasket STI 11mm Oil Pump Perrin Headers Grimmspeed UP Cobb catted DP Borla exhaust Want to swap out the turbo with something else. Another 52 or something better. Not going bigger on fuel. My previous dyno below: Only difference between this engine and the one dynoed there is that engine had OEM rods and Wiesco drop-ins, and OEM cams. I figure the BNR EVO3 16g is perfect, and may even fatten up my power and torque curves.
  11. I'm not gonna be pissed if I don't hit 300, I just want a good, safe tune. Last time around she it 271WHP with a VF52 and a less-than-ideal clutch. Tuner thought the setup was good for more, but the clutch hated me.
  12. So my VF52 is on it's way out. I need a turbo soon, as I'm tuning on 10/11. BNRs seem like a good option. I want to keep my UP and DP, I'm on a DW65c with stock injectors on parallel feed AP rails. Grimmspeed TMIC. Looking for around 300WHP/350WTQ, 93 octane fuel. I'm thinking a 16g should be plenty, or would I need to go to an 18g? Any other options available?
  13. Yep, the OB JDM rear bumper is definitely deeper than the JDM LGT wagon rear bumper. From Scooby2.5's classified ad
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