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SuperAkuma

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  • Location
    Sac, CA
  • Car
    2011 Legacy
  • Interests
    Photography

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  1. Doing the timing belt right now and this is what I noticed. Some nasty build up on the water pump. Didn't have much time to inspect it but it looks like the weeping hole is clogged? Also the top radiator has chip that broke off at the end. Maybe the plastic clogged the radiator?
  2. Yes the rad hose can pop out and break off the radiator, but that does not explain why it was over heating after I put it back. Bottom hose was cold so no coolant was circulating.
  3. Another update On Friday I bought a new rad cap, upper and lower rad hose, new tstat and 4 new hose clamp, all OEM from the dealership. Today I did one final test on the temp, running the car. While running I squeezed the upper AND lower hose. I squeezed it pretty hard this time because I was getting frustrated. I let the car idle and revved up the engine ri get to temp. Around 205*F the fan kicked in but it didn't go any higher and the temp started to go down. Touched the lower hose and it was just as hot as the lower hose. Seems like it is working fine now. Let it ran for another 15 minutes, temp never got over 210. So it seems like it is working now. To be on the safe said I am planning to change our the tstat while I am doing the timing belt replacement. It is a little early but just want to get this over with it. While I am doing the timing belt, anything I should inspect that is related to this issue? I am guessing it could be a stuck tstat or a clogged radiator. When I squeezed the lower hose, I blew whatever out. I am just guessing but it seems plausible. I am open to any possible reason on what happened.
  4. No white smoke out of the tail pipe. Coolant not mikly. Car this age, I have to add about 1/2 or 2/3 quart oil before the next oil change(5k) Last time did the thermostat, I flush new subaru blue coolant, did not change upper/lower hose and yes I did burp the system. Update Just did the a coolant gas combustion test and it did NOT change color.
  5. Saw this post late so I will do the air bubble test tomorrow but on Friday, my friend is coming over so I can do the combustion test. The upper rad hose popped off, it didn't crack or break. The clamp was still on the hose when it popped off. The thermostat didn't get installed upside down. If it was, it would of failed a long time ago. I drove from Sac to Seattle 3 times(about 700 miles each way 1400 miles total) since I replaced the thermostat.
  6. No I am not a professional mechanic by trade but I have no issue working on cars. When the upper hose gave out, it just popped out just like the last time that it happened and IT was the thermostat. That is what I was going by. Going to do the combustion test on Friday when my friend bring over the tester. JW, if the head gasket was bad, would that CAUSE the thermostat to fail or are the two conditions separate? Just thinking head, IF the head gasket is GOOD, what other reasons would the thermostat fail pre-maturity? There are no milky fluid in the radiator or the oil dip stick this is why I am thinking it could be a bad thermostat AGAIN. I am just hoping for the best.
  7. I am not sure. Would a blown head gasket cause the radiator hose to pop out? Also how would I test it?
  8. 2011 Legacy 2.5i with about 190k on it. Bought it brand new. On November of 2021, the top radiator hose popped out of the radiator while I was driving. Car overheated but lucky I was close to home. Did some research, found out my thermostat was stuck open/closed forgot which one but I had to replace it. Put the car on the lift and replaced it an OEM thermostat with all new OEM fluids. Fast forward to today June 2023 same thing happened again. Lucky I wasn't to far from home either. The car didn't overheat this time but I saw smoke coming out the hood. Got home, checked the top radiator and sure enough it popped out. What would cause the thermostat to fail within 2 years? I probably drove about 15k on it since the last time I replaced it. Is it just bad luck that it happened or are there other underlining issues that I need to address? It is close to 200k and I need to do the timing belt, so I will get it all done at once.
  9. Inspecting the front now. Both top sliders moves fine, the bottom one is frozen. Had a really hard time pulling the pin out. Got it out, clean and greased. I wasn't able to put the bottom one back in. After doing some research it seems like the rubber gets swollen up and will prevent it from going back in. Many people said they just removed it. Did that and it went back in with no problem. Anyone else had this issue? If you did, did you remove the rubber as well or did you just get a new slide pin?
  10. I've asked a lot of people and no one said that. The funny thing is doing the brakes was the last thing that was done to the car. I've never done brakes myself but I know what the components are. Is there an easy way to check to see if the caliper are seized?
  11. 2011 Legacy 2.5i with 6MT. Everything is pretty much stock. Bought the car brand new. It has about 190k on it. No major issue with the car. Oil change religiously. Need to do the timing belt soon but everything else is up to date. Engine bay is leak free, no oil spots beside where the PCV was at. Until recently I had great/good MPG. 30mpg on freeway and in the city about 23-25mpg easily. I've always reset the MPG after every gas refill, just a habit. Sometime fall of last year I noticed that my MPG was pretty bad. I do mostly street driving to work and home. I work about 5 miles away so not much of a drive but I do work at 4am in the morning. I've noticed that I wasn't even getting 20mpg, more like 18mpg or so on the street, rarely over 20mpg. It has been about 6 months now that is like this. My driving habit has NOT changed for the past 2 years. With gas price over $5.50 here in Cali, this is something that I really need to figure out. One thing that I did noticed was when idling on cold engine, it is about 1,500RPM. Not shaking or anything. When the engine is warmed up, it settles to about 800RPm or so. Besides that the car runs perfect. CEL is NOT on. The only code I pulled is U0110 which is related to Anti-Lock Brake. Not sure how long that has been on. -It is NOT my driving habit, nothing changed for 2 years -Not the tires -Engine filter changed -Spark plug changed -MAF cleaned -Throttle body cleaned What is the next step to check?
  12. Thanks! My local autozone has the Continental Belt in stock. I just hate going to the dealership for parts. Those stupid sales guy keep asking me to trade my car in for a new one.
  13. If the tensioner and idler pulley is not in the best condition can I still put the belt on and remove the belt again when I order the new parts? I don't mind doing the job twice if I have to, just want to want order something and not needed it.
  14. 2011 Subaru Legacy 2.5i MT about 180k miles When I was doing the oil change last week I noticed that my serpentine belt was cracking. I've never replaced this unless if they replaced it when I did my timing belt at the shop at about 90k. I watched a youtube video on how to replace this and it looks pretty straight forward but I have a couple questions. -Are there any adjusts or aligning anything that I need to be aware of when doing the job? -Is this something that I need to buy at the dealership or would one from autozone do the job? When I replace this is there anything else I need to replace? What other thing I should be aware of when doing this?
  15. What is "lash/whine"? Will he be loud, can I hear it inside the car or will I need someone on the outside to hear it.
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