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urfsin

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About urfsin

  • Birthday 08/12/1975

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  • Location
    Santa Barbara
  • Car
    Grocery Getter
  • Interests
    WINNING! ;-)
  • Occupation
    Real Estate Broker

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  • User Title
    2x Rally X Champ

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  1. I'm worried about the fluid loss....would a "broken" seal do that? Or do you think it was how my car was jacked up? or combo of both? It was old formula Extra-S fluid to....now I have to drain the whole thing and put in a new type of fluid since I can't get that fluid anymore (as far as I know).
  2. Hi all - I was taking my front axles out today because I am pulling my transmission out to get to my clutch (this is my 3rd clutch btw...what a pain!) When I pulled my right axle out, a crap ton of tranny fluid cam out....I mean like a solid quart! I have not experience that before. I can only think of two things. 1.) I damaged my axle seal somehow when I was pulling the axle out. 2.) The whole car is on jack stands and the rear is ever so slightly higher than the front. So I was thinking maybe the fluid in the trans was pooling towards the front of the tranny and therefore leaking out when I pulled the axle? I guess I should just replace the seals anyway now that I have 117,XXX miles on the car. Oh yeah, I killed my the ball joint in my LCA....so gotta get a new one of those too! How hard is it to remove and replace that sucker?
  3. Yes, l have an open source tune and left it on.
  4. Yes it was. But like I was saying...I have been there multiple times now and I have a good relationship with the guy. I have a feeling he went "easy" on me. He did not poke around in the engine bay, did not look at the up pipe or downpipe....just looked at my engine bay and walked around and looked at the exhaust from eye level. He then went on to the rest of the test. Super easy.
  5. Update: I just did my smog test and passed under the new system!! My car is pretty typical stage 2.....catted aftermarket downpipe, exhaust and upgraded intercooler and tune of course. I have gone to this shop in the past and have built up a pretty good relationship with them. In the past I always put back on my stock exhaust (but left everything else on) and passed with flying colors on the sniffer test. This time I did NOT take off my exhaust and just decided to try it out. I am super happy.
  6. ^^ Sniffer. The shop I went to did not have rollers. This was last February.
  7. ^^That's what I did. I just installed my stock cat back (left my tune alone) and drive nice and easy (keeping it under 3000 RPM's) over to the smog shop and passed with flying colors.
  8. So I have been doing a fair amount of reading up on "Drop-in" forged pistons. More specifically about 4032 alloy pistons as they have tighter tolerances and they seem like a better, longer lasting piston for people who are looking to stay under 400 HP. I do have a few questions however.... 1. With a new short block what is the bore exactly? I have seen this below, but it talks about the piston diameter (min and max), but not the bore size. http://www.legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=79983&stc=1&d=1265554127 So I guess my question is this. What is the stock "A" bore size range? and what is the stock "B" bore size range? As a follow up question, when a piston manufacturer sells a piston that is stock size (99.5 mm) what is the true size? I ask because it seems like the manufacturer would under size the piston ever so slightly to fit the stock range "A" and "B" bore within their spec. Those of you with experience in these things, what do you think of this? Am I correct in my thinking?
  9. Thanks to Grimmspeed for taking this on and I look forward to your finished product. You guys are putting some good thought and effort into this project. What I would like to see are some actual numbers in terms of air intake temps post turbo, but before the intercooler, then after the intercooler, pre throttle body. Maybe I have not searched hard enough, but I have NEVER seen these numbers published on any aftermarket intercooler. I think these numbers will show where the rubber meet's the road so to speak. Is this something that is hard to do? Why is this not talked about more? Please enlighten me. For some background on my interest in this, I did my own little DIY TMIC project back in 2010 before the Process West intercooler was out. Here is a link to that thread just in case you want to use it for inspiration! http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...er-128914.html
  10. Please tell us how the install goes and what your final #'s are. This is a set up that I would like to do as well if things line up for me in the future.
  11. This might be a silly question, but here it goes. Has anyone thought of swapping in a 6mt from the new LGT's (2010+)? As far as I know it's the same size as the 05-09 5MT, but has another gear shoved in the case. I know the tanny is not as strong as the STI 6MT, but would this swap be bolt in? (no diff / axle / mix-match parts swap) I think it would be an option for some people who don't really care about the added strength of the STI tranny, but do want a taller freeway gear.
  12. ^^ I am not 100%, but I thought the cylinder wall was was the same material as the rest of the block (aluminum). If I am wrong, please point to some proof. I have seen open / cracked Subaru blocks before and the material of the "sleeve" seemed to be the same as the rest of the block.
  13. I just did mine today. It was 100% clean, but I removed the filter anyway. A little history on my car... It now has 43,000 miles and I have used M1 10w-30 synth since day one, oil change every 5000 miles give or take. I have been stage 2 for about 1/2 of those miles. List of races / abuse this car has seen: 2 HPDE events 2 Auto-X 10 Rally-X 3 1/4 mile passes and countless other street abuse. I was quite pleased that the filter was clear! I am still switching to Redline 10w-40 synth for the next 2 oil changes (I won some from Rally-X racing) , if I don't win any more, I plan on changing over to Rotella snyth.
  14. PM me, I don't seem to know how this feature works.
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