Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Rattsl

Mega Users
  • Posts

    856
  • Joined

4 Followers

About Rattsl

  • Birthday November 7

Personal Information

  • Location
    Ft.Worth, Texas
  • Car
    05LGT LTD Tuned by AWDTuning, SCCA ASP
  • Interests
    XC Mtb
  • Occupation
    Aircraft Engine Salesman

Converted

  • User Title
    SuperGold Donating Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Rattsl's Achievements

Experienced

Experienced (11/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Posting Machine Rare
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. Always been curious on the carbon driveshafts. It's on my list of things.
  2. Removed side skirt extension, added JDM sport bumper, added hood vents, jdm aero splash guards, 1 of 1 Freedom Mount carbon trunk garnish, and Nameless exhaust.
  3. Removed side skirt extension, added JDM sport bumper, added hood vents, jdm aero splash guards, 1 of 1 Freedom Mount carbon trunk garnish, and Nameless exhaust.
  4. Oh boy, has it been this long since my last update?? Well.....a lot has changed....
  5. I gathered more information. It seems that if you do have to buy new INNER rods, buy OEM.
  6. Recently, I installed the 2015+ STI power steering rack, and aside from having to repin it (oops) the issue I ran into was wider track. If you follow this thread, you'll see Underdogg says to cut the INNER tie rods, leaving 3-4 threads more than the Legacy inner rods. Well...sorta makes sense, sorta doesn't, because the OUTER tie rods have about 4" of available thread space, whereas the INNER tie rods have about 1-2" of thread space. So really, you'll run out of INNER tie rod by the time you thread in the OUTER tie rod all the way in. Sooo..... (Dealing with over the shelf inner and outer tie rods) Solution. Grab a die (or buy one) and cut in new threads onto the INNER tie rod. M14x1.5 is the size you'll need, but I suggest bringing a tie rod with you and checking with each die to make sure you have the right thread. I made mine work with a 1/2 20nf die. I added between 1/4" of threads to the driver side and about 1/2" of threads to the passenger side. Now, the oem jam nut is massive, so I suggest ordering the McMaster Carr jam nut that is provided in the link above that Underdogg posted. This nut is much more thinner than the oem jam nut and will give you an additional 3-4 threads of adjustments. Now...last thing to note. If all else fails, there is still available space on the OUTER tie rod that you can cut off without affecting the adjustment cutout area. It's about 1/2 of available space (depending on the tie rod, seeing as the Whiteline bump steer outer tie rod is longer) and cut that off. That said...these are my experiences. Any damages done to your vehicle, I am not liable to. I took the risks of modifying suspension parts and I'm solely responsible for my own actions. I'll get an alignment again tomorrow and see if I need more threads to achieve 0 toe, but as a look from above the fender, I seem pretty good with the current results.
  7. That's not some. That's a lot. I don't even run that much camber.
  8. If I ever got new wheels, it would be similar to those.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use