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Benjewman

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  1. Gotchya, yea that makes sense. Ill for sure look into those two tests. Worst case scenario its 40 bucks gone. I also have my sister bringing me her ir thermometer so ill be able to get a better reading of that and report back to you guys.
  2. Just Curious, How does changing the caps help if it seems the system is properly pressurized? The fans do work as they are supposed to. When I was running the fluid test, they came on a couple of times. I can also hear them when I'm driving and I can hear it echoing off of something so the fnas arent the problem. UV Die test? How do I conduct that? Im assuming put it in the coolant, drive and then search with an ultraviolet light? A shop replaced the most recent T-stat so I'd assume he installed it properly. Also dont have the time to start pulling coolant lines and dealing with all of that. I have an unbelievable amount of personal stuff happening all at once. The radiator seems like a sensible fix, lining up with the sympstoms I have but I checked last night and didnt feel any cool zones. Do you have any other methods to test the radiator. Also I agree with the dude above you that even if it is the radiator, Im not replacing it until I know whats going inside the engine now with misfires.
  3. I just got home rom driving home from work. I tried feeling the radiator the best I could through the fans. I'll admit it probably wasnt the best feeling but going up and down a couple of times, it seemed to feel the same temp, if anything slightly cooler towards the top. The idea of the radiator being faulty seems to make sense with most of the symptoms ive been experiencing. Is there a better, more sure fire way to check the radiator with out removing from the car? I was under my car recently to do an oil change and I also had to change my power steering pump. While I was under there, I chcked for leaks of any kind, oil cooolant what have you, I couldnt see anything that I know of. Ive also been monitoring regularly from up top and dont see any visible leaks either.
  4. So maybe the bad radiator could be the problem. And then raising the revs sent more fluid though the system and overpowered the block in the radiator? If that's the case, could my cyl 1 misfire now be because of constant overheating and now my heads are in fact warped? I have seen bubbles in the overflow tank but I thought it might be been boiling from the overheated coolant. I will try to check the radiator though.
  5. Some details, probably too many but meh. I have a 2005 lgt, ~138k miles on the original block, og turbo replaced at ~45k miles. I have had an overheating issue that started back in about 2018 and it is getting worse, mainly cus im driving the car more than ever, an hour commute each way to work/school and back. My car only overheats when I'm driving slow, like in traffic, through a drive thru line, around a parking lot, stuff like that. Driving at speed or on the highway, no issues. When it goes to overheat, I will watch my temperature gauge slowly rise and it will go up to just around the red but never over, it will sit there for a second or two and then drop down to where it should be, a smidge below the middle. This would happen randomly and infrequently, so i didnt worry too much. Although I did look into it and some research and the community led me to change my thermostat and temp sensor, which I did with oem units. it worked perfectly for a couple of months until I took the car off the road for about 1.5 years and brought it back on last september. She came off because I had bought another car, not because she was overheating. In April, the problem started again, I talked to my shop and he replaced the T-stat again, problem didnt occur anymore, thought I got a faulty T-stat when I did the replacement. Back in June of this year, on the hottest day of the year, I blew a coolant line, specifically to my turbo. I had it towed home ,replaced it and burped the system. Seemed to be fine again. Then it started happening more and more frequently. Now sometimes it would hover at the high mark for longer than it did before. I realized if the revs were high, it would drop down. Specifically, If it was high, I would drop a gear, do a pull and it would just plummet to below the middle. I had thought that was really weird, but just took it as more evidence and kept monitoring. During all of this up until the last couple of weeks, besides the intermittent overheating, the car has felt fine. Pulled strong, held boost no problems, same gas mileage, nothing else telling me something was wrong. Some other things ive noticed are that my coolant overflow would boil over and spray coolant all over the underside of my hood. I would top it off so as to not run out, and it would blow it all out so I now keep it low in the overflow tank but still make sure there is some in there. I have checked in the tank, and seen, idk if it is steam from boiling coolant or exhaust gas, but when I smell it, it smells sweet like coolant but a slight hint of something else i cant put my finger on, could be exhaust gas. A couple of weeks ago, making a pass on the highway in 5th from 75-85, there was a stutter in the car and then it went fine, got a code for P0244, wastegate solenoid performance. That has only happened twice, mainly cus I avoided 5th gear passes under boost. After this week, now I am worried. When I hit boost merging on to the highway, the car stuttered a bit, it overboosted slightly to ~13-14 psi from normal of 11 and the boost would flutter heavily. Then I got a CEL for P0301, cyl 1 misfire, and PFFFF and PFFFE from my accessport. Reset the codes and drove it gingerly. Then this morning, I accidently forgot, hit boost, maybe about 30% throttle at most and the same thing happened. Some of the testing I have tried include I burped the system after I noticed it had been boiling over everywhere. I did do the coolant exhaust leak test. I did the test 4 times, and the fluid never changed colors, I believe this to be because the problem isn't constant. I even tried doing the test on the coolant overflow to see if the the vapor was steam or exhaust gas. I gave it an oil change, there was no coolant or metal or anything odd whatsoever, matter of fact the oil looked really good. I was advised to run a compression test. I tried to do it myself but didnt have the capabilities, mainly the space and time. Talked to my local shop who does most of the average car stuff for me, he said not to have him do it, have the shop who would do the repair work so I dont pay for the test twice. So the compression test hasnt been done yet. All of the things I have thought it to be are a bad radiator?, nah coolant flows fine and is clean. I also have no shortage of heat for the aircon. Fans dont work?, nope, I hear them working all of the time, especially when the car is trying to overheat. Since I could get the temperature down with a pull, maybe the waterpump? I was thinking the higher revs would spin the pump faster and move more coolant through the system. Idk still could be a possibility. Timing belt and everything was replaced at 106k. Now that I am getting a cyl 1 misfire at boost, Im thinking there is in fact a hg leak, in cylinder 1 and the its a small one thats getting worse and the boost is causing the leak to expand thus the boost issue, i.e overboosting and fluttering. Another thing I am worried about is since the car has gotten hot a good amount of times, but never actually overheated, could my heads have been warped? If they are warped and/or there is a hg leak, when does it make more sense to machine and fix the current engine, replace the engine entirely or junk the car? So yeah, thats my problem, dont know whats going on and I cant get a solid answer as it doesnt seem to follow any standard failure signs. Do you guys have any insight or leads? Anything is appreciated. Thanks
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