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nonsense

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  • Birthday November 21

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    Portland, OR
  • Car
    05 Legacy GT wagon 5MT, non-limited
  • Occupation
    Databaser

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  1. I had both airbag recalls done at Carr Subaru and they did a great job. No sign that they took anything apart.
  2. Yes, I've seen sever youtube videos that reference 2.2 or 3.3 ohms. It's not uncommon when people put race seats in a car that have seat airbags just search "seat airbag sensor resistor" for your specific car
  3. The sensor on the up pipe is a temperature sensor that provides temp data to the ECU. The ECU knows that a certain range of voltage is "good" so therefore won't produce a CEL. 2.2k ohm of resistance put that voltage in the correct range, tricking the ECU into thinking there is an operational sensor. Now, for your airbag sensor, it's hard to say what the ECU is expecting. So that's the million dollar question, what resistor. I have read both a 2.2 ohm and 3.3 ohm (NOT 2.2k or 3.3k ohm which is 2200/3300, but 2.2/3.3) resistors are correct. I guess it depends on the car, but the concept is exactly the same as this. I'd suggest searching "seat airbag resistor" for your particular car
  4. I started getting an OCV CEL today so I decided to run a flush and oil change along with popping the OCVs out to inspect/clean. The drivers side one popped out pretty easily but I had to get it started with a screw driver. That's when I noticed that the valve didn't look like they did in pics I had seen. Turns out the body was still in the engine and the solenoid had separated. Luckily I was able to remove the parts without any issues (I did slide a powerful magnet into the hole in case I was missing anything). Anyone seen this before? I guess I'll replace them instead of cleaning. Anyone had success (or failure) with aftermarket ones? Rock Auto has a selection of aftermarket OCVs for 1/2 the price of OEM
  5. UPDATE: I think I found at least part of the problem I first swapped the #3 and #1 fuel injectors, cleared codes and went for a drive. Still the same feeling, and the code is the same (P303) So I started to work on changing the plugs with the intent to swap the #3 and #1 coils at the same time. When I went to unplug the #3 coil the connector fell apart in my hands. After a few moments of panic I found out that this is pretty common and there are replacements available online. I have a feeling that the connector was cracked before and therefore not making a full contact (part of the connector stayed in the coil). The plugs look pretty bad too so crossing fingers that the connector and the new plugs fixes it. I guess I have to wait a couple days for the part to arrive so I can see. Side note: F-you Subaru for making this so tight and a giant PITA (and literal pain in the hands)
  6. I've been reading up on various old threads about P30x codes. It seems like it can range from air leak to burnt valves, with most people throwing parts at it until it's fixed. My problem is that the car seems to idle ok (little rough), runs fine under vacuum, but when boost hits it stumbles and the CEL flashes. The only code is P303. Plugs are passed due (114k on them) One other possible factor is that I put some regain fuel cleaner in the tank at the last fill up (1/2 tank now) I'm thinking that the cleaner either dislodged some crap that partially clogged the #3 injector, or it dislodged some crap and fouled the #3 plug. Other than changing plugs, and maybe swapping out the #1 and #3 injectors, what else should I do to diagnose?
  7. Other than the LCD screen, is there really any difference? My V2 has sat in the garage since the day I got it (hooked it up, added tune, put in garage so it doesn't get stolen). I can have pretty much any gauge I need using my bluetooth OBDII dongle and my phone. I don't have to worry about hiding it when I park. I'm having a hard time justifying spending $300 on another LCD.
  8. Update: I found the issue. When putting the car in reverse the DRLs come on, so I checked to see if the reverse lights came on too. Nope. Checked the reverse light fuse and sure enough it's blown. That couldn't possibly be it though, right? Subaru wouldn't engineer their headlights to completely fail when you blow a reverse light fuse, that would be stupid... and that was it. WTF Subaru?
  9. For some background, yesterday I had my windsheild replaced which meant I had to reattach and hook up my dashcam. I currently have it hooked into the rear view mirror connector (no homelink mirror). I initially set this up my buying a mirror cable (H501SXA120) and wired into it. I noticed though that the power shut off to the mirror when putting the car in reverse. Since there are 3 wires I tried using my multi-meter to test if one of the wires was a constant source of power rather than cutting when in reverse. In doing so I blew a fuse (#6 Seat heater, mirror, etc). I said screw it, I'll leave the harness alone, replaced the fuse plugged the harness back in, checked the dash cam and seat heater and all is well. That is until this morning... So this morning I started my car and my headlights were on, but when I released the handbrake they turned off I came to realize that the headlights were actually turned off at the stalk and when the handbrake was up the DRLs were on (opposite of normal, up=off down=on). When I turn on the headlights neither headlight works, left, right, high or low beam, nor do the fogs work. The parking lights do work. If I pull the handbrake up the DRLs (sometimes) go back on. Now for the really weird part. When I put the car in reverse the DRLs work I have a feeling that when I poked my multi-meter around I blew one or more other fuses, it would make sense that one of those 3 mirror wires has something to do with headlights (can't fine a schematic). So short of pulling every different headlight fuse and relay one by one, what should I look at first to solve this wonky ass headlight issue?
  10. Technically yes, but you would have to be extremely careful that every last bit of material is removed because anything that rattles loose later is taking a trip through your turbo. I don't think the risk is worth it
  11. You realize that the airbag isn't supposed to be used instead of a seat belt right? Not saying you don't, but I've seen a few comments here that indicate that airbags only help when someone isn't wearing a seat belt. It's called the SRS (supplemental restraint system), as in to supplement the primary restraint system (your seat belt). Seat belts are meant to stretch and give (a lot) in the event of a crash. The airbag is there to slow down your face so it doesn't smash into the steering wheel or dash, as well as stop whiplash when rapidly decelerating your body while your head keeps going. While the belt is there to keep you from going through the windshield or submarining under the dash I would very highly advise against ignoring this recall and either leaving the defective part in there, or disabling the SRS. I especially wouldn't go posting about it on a public forum. If someone is injured or killed in your car because of it (even after you've sold it) it will be very easy to hold you liable. All this because the dealer *might* scratch the dash or introduce a rattle? Seriously get over it and get it done, then deal with any issues as they come up.
  12. 13 Deaths worldwide so far, and counting, but hey it's an overreaction
  13. Make it painfully clear what your expectations are up front, and if you detect any static, or pushback from the service rep, consider finding a different dealer. I had mine done and it was fine. They noted every single little flaw that my interior had BEFORE they started the job. Every small scratch or loose panel (someone already f-ed up the driver side panel so it's a little loose), and the fact that I had a bluetooth device with a small display. I honestly wondered if they did anything with my car because it was exactly as I had dropped it off (maybe the dash was a little cleaner). No fingerprints, no rattles. Let's face it though, the dealer isn't going to put their best, highest paid, tech on this. They're going to train the grunt and have him do nothing but these all day long. I'm sure some dealers are trading quantity for quality, so you may have to make it very clear that everything must be perfect or they will be fixing it. They figure (and are probably right) that most people won't notice or care anyway.
  14. Just had mine done last week. They had the car all day and gave me a loaner 2016 Crosstrek (total POS). No damage to the car, you'd never know it was worked on. Before that I had made an appointment to just leave my car there and they'd get me a loaner. They said if I felt unsafe that even though they couldn't order the parts they could give me a loaner and keep my car. Only when they have the car they can try to order parts. The day before I was going to drop my car off they called and said they can order parts now without the car there and asked if I wanted the loaner or to just order parts and bring it in. I chose to keep my car because I was going on vacation anyway (without my car). It sounds like if you push the issue they will get it done, so push it if your local dealer is giving you trouble.
  15. Wrong, one death in a Ford Ranger so far, plus lots of injuries that didn't result in death but are pretty freaking horrific (Google it) I think age has a lot to do with it. They degrade over time and there seems to be more of these defective explosives in older Honda vehicles than others, it's a matter of time before they start killing people in other makes. Do you want each manufacturer to wait until that happens? The problem is well documented, Takata and probably the manufacturers knew about it long before and deaths.
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