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ktm200

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    Rhode Island
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    09' LGT 5EAT

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  1. Went to the wicked big meet yesterday. More legacies on one place than I’ve probably seen over the last year! Sooo…maybe a half dozen haha. Definitely a rarity to see there.
  2. Thanks for the pics Max Capacity. Got me into the general area for what I think is the ECU ground. My car being an 09, it has all the air pump junk in the way so the grounds in your very first pic are not in the same spot. I have some bracket that goes around the side of the intake manifold/injectors and there seems to be one ground towards the rear of that bracket, really buried behind some hoses. Haven't gotten a chance to run all the new wires yet, but realized if I monitor voltage when WOT it dips to 13.5 then cuts out after that. So maybe it drops even further. I'm slow and lazy doing things but I'll post back when I get around to trying a few things and see if there is any improvement.
  3. Daily mine as well. Cranston to CT a few days a week. 216k and still holding up. Haven’t done much other than basic upkeep past few years. Except new struts recently reminded me how much I enjoy this car. Sticky dash and seat booster cracks are getting annoying but otherwise it’s in great shape. With the prices of car’s right now I’m toying with putting some more preventative money in to it.
  4. Well did a little more digging and I think what I pointed to in the pic is the knock sensor. Any idea where the wiring harness/ECU is grounded in the engine bay. Looked all over and can’t find it.
  5. In the pics below, is that the ground for the ECU? I've seen a few vids on other similar cars like WRX's where the ECU is actually grounded to the intake bolts. I can't find anything on any of the intake bolts or the TMIC bracket. Reason I'm doing this is I haven't logged with my Accessport in years, and wanted to check up on things before I do a couple more mods and get a protune. The issue I'm having is every single time under load and WOT the Accessport stops logging and momentarily looses connection in the upper 3000RPM range. Speaking with COBB, and doing some research the first suggestion is to check and clean up all grounds. Cleaned up the battery terminals, the ground to the drivers side shock tower, and the head to frame grounds and the last one suggested was the ECU. Couldn't seem to find any pics anywhere. Cleaning these up is step 1 to see if it works, next is a new battery (I'm due anyway) and after that I'd like to run fresh grounds like I've seen mentioned in a few of the DIY threads. If there is still no improvement I'm going to try a different set of plugs, I forget what's in the car now but saw that somewhere as another suggestion to try. Figured one thing at a time to see if there is any improvement. Thanks.
  6. Small state haha. I don’t see many legacies though.
  7. I’m aware that I likely won’t notice a difference. Not really why I’m doing it. Pulling apart the rear of a car that has seen 200k of New England winters is likely going to be trouble as well. Just the fact that it’s be easier in labor to swap in low mileage trailing and control arms opposed to pressing out and replacing all the old, likely seized, bushings is worth it to me. Price was not too much more than just buying all new bushings, and I don’t have a press so might have needed to add in some shop labor hours.
  8. Nice 4th gen red LGT wagon. Apponaug rotories in Warwick. Looked good, lowered with bronze wheels.
  9. Heck of a thread revival but did you ever get this question answered? If you're swapping these trailing arms over do you need longer or shorter axels to account for the different trailing arm thickness? I have a 5EAT I was looking to swap the rear arms on. Didn't want an expensive surprise by realizing my stock axels won't work.
  10. Looking for a good shop that will set things up they way I'd like and match both sides. I'm in RI, so preferably something in RI or southern MA/eastern CT. I'm going through refreshing my suspension and not really looking for much out of the ordinary, but the last couple times I've had alignments done locally, they barely get it within spec and refuse to put any more work in. Last time the rear cambers were over a degree different and they refused to even adjust my 0.5deg front caster bushings to get them to match (off 0.7degrees between the two sides), rear toe was also off a lot. I'm just looking for someone that's willing to put in a little extra to get things even and willing to adjust some aftermarket front caster bushings. Might be a few weeks till I do it. Looking to replace the front lower control arms and either all the bushings out back or new trailing/control arms then get the alignment. Thanks.
  11. Thanks for the info. Sorry for the dumb question but would that be the bracket the bottom bolt of the swaybar end link attaches to in this pic? https://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=90370&d=1285292854 Can’t for the life of me attach photos anymore.
  12. In the process of going through and refreshing my suspension. Have a set of JDM front control arms on the way and I'm going to stuff new bushings in them. I also found a set of JDM Spec B aluminum rear trailing arms, uppers, and rear control arms that are supposedly low mileage (40k or so). Was thinking for the cost of changing out all of my OEM bushings, I could go with the JDM Spec B arms, and likely not have to swap out too many of the bushings. Easier and less downtime to just swap in the pre-prepped arms. Question though, is there anything unique about the JDM rear trailing arms compared to USDM? I know I'll need the longer hub bolts, but are there any other odd differences that anyone is aware of? ABS sensors the same between the USDM and JDM? Appreciate any input.
  13. Replaced the beyond spent OEM struts (215k miles) with some pretty low mile JDM Rev.C struts, complete with springs, dust covers and top hats. Super easy swap considering the miles and being around New England winters for 12 years. None of the bolts put up much of a fight. Should have done this years ago, wouldn’t have thought the car could feel this good again. Some saggy spacers might be on order soon. Also found a torn axle boot, new axle up next along with some rear pads and rotors.
  14. Been poking around the past few days looking at options for upgrading my OEM nav in my 09 GT. I never use it, it's too outdated and it usually just sat on the "agree screen" the past few years. I'm super late to the party but was hoping to see if anyones done this in recent years. I was thinking of putting something like this in. I like the idea of of a newer NAV with easier to update maps, bluetooth capability, and I also want to load btssm for some clean gauges. From what I'm seeing I really only have a couple options. One is to hack up the existing OEM NAV bezel that I have to fit in the new screen (with my skills it'll probably look like crap). The other is the JDM bezels, and availability seems to have dried up years ago. I have found a larger opening JDM bezel, but it doesn't come with the vent extensions. Is there any clever way that people have tied the vents together without the correct parts? Was really hoping not to cut up my OEM bezel incase things don't work out and I just want to put it back to stock. Any suggestions?
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