rkl303

Another recommendation for terry tanner and his pdr services. I got a quote from some other pdr shop that wanted $400 for what only took him 1 hour and costed me a $100. His number is 303 378 4944. I will say he is not the friendliest guy on the phone but he's way better in person.

Dang sorry to hear you had such a bad experience.

Just make sure you put on the brake dust shield back on correctly...ask me how I know.

Epic springs here. I thought the rears were a PITA to get to compress because I chose the wrong number of coils to compress but feel is completely different from the slopyness of the stock setup. I can't say if its more the springs making the difference or the struts but definately way more comfortable than my friends bug eyes on stock struts w/ I think pinks for long trips.

id just but a d2s kit

Just finished the install. Took 1 and a 1/2 days because it was my first time using a springs compressor and the oversized claws on the compressor and with the way the koni rear coils coil very tightly at the top made it a huge PITA to install. Also had to reassemble twice on all 4 struts because I stupidly decided to try and go with the OEM top hat nuts instead of the 19mm Koni nuts and they just kept spinning when I lowered the car. Overall impressions is the car is very forgiving over poor quality highway roads and gave very little body roll while going in a circle for the on ramp. Definately love it and wish I had done springs much sooner when I took that circle. Sort of wish I had switched to my summer tires to try it out.

Just a heads up my buddy (ex mechanic) was watching me and he suggested that you should hammer in a small notch where the axle nut sits in the axle just in case $hit happens and it wants to try and slide out.

its there in mine but very lower back.

I agree with Mini STI Guy. THe part that determined what side was higher is the cut off sheild. The shield also was what held the bowl in place and I'm sure I accidently swapped them numerous times.

So would this work at altitude? I have prosport gauges that don't give me a good reference of what my boost level is.

MiniStiGuy you could probably edit the first post to also mention to the DIYers that hey could try adding/reducing washers prior to putting the headlight back togeather. This would save us from going back and taking the system apart because we put in too many or too few washers. I just hooked up my HID system w/o headlight assembly and just put the bulb in the projectors and ran the system. Found out 2 brass washers was a bit too much and 0 wasn't right prior to putting it altogeather.

for the ones hiding in the wheel well b/n the bumper cover and the fender? Guess I should have also pulled off the wheels but I got lazy.

10 because of the 2 ^(&%ing popits that hold the bumper cover to the car are a PITA to remove but really I would say its a 3-2. Or if you are talking about grinding the shields I would say its a 1.5 if youhave a bench grinder as all you do is take the bowl and trace an outline of the shield w/ a sharpie(the .5 is because you gotta be careful not to break the tab

Not much more than grind away at the sides of the shields until it fit and break a tab and jbwelt the tab (similar to the LGT Tab pictured on the back of the LGT sheilds back ) back on. I think net result is a slightly different beam pattern thats about it. I was thinking/wondering of what sanding/polishing the interior of the shields would net as the shield does seem dark enough where it might absorb a lot of light but I didn't want to risk having a bad result to do an experiment when I don't have a replacement.