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RustyRuu

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About RustyRuu

  • Birthday 06/29/1991

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  • Location
    Colorado
  • Car
    02 legacy gt
  • Occupation
    driver

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  1. Hardly ever is the ECU to blame. What codes are you getting we will be able to trouble shoot further if we know.
  2. Glad someone else said it, literally every other manufacturer does it this way. No need to replace an entire spindle, when you just need a longer bolt and a nut after drilling yours out a bit
  3. It will all bolt up. Depending on the tranny you are using you will need a certain spring and washer or else the shifter will sort of flop around. But it's something to work out after the swap and not a huge deal, where at in colorado are you? I have a couple.
  4. Looks like some old aftermarket security hackery. Is anything going on currently with the vehicle, like only the key in the door works to unlock, not the remote? All the doors lock but the driver and you have to lock it manually?
  5. What county are you in? They haven't ran dyno's or sniffed pipes where I'm at in almost a year. They just check codes and you pass. You are going to want to get that fuel system cleaner almost all out before you try again. Could have been bad gas. You can try again for free within 25 days. If you don't pass, it may be your cat. good news is cat prices are high right now and you can probably sell your bad one for close to what a new one would be. Any check engine lights or pending codes?
  6. What are you working with an h6 an h4? What car do you have? Year? Model? Engine? Color? That is most important!
  7. They all have their own problem. The outback xt had turbo issuses the N/A cars had head gasket issues. The H6 had tranny issues. Not a lot of knowledge to spread there were less of them so they had fewer issues. There has been a couple of struggles reported with head gasket issusez. I would look into if they came with multillayer steal ones or like the N/a h4 composite if you are real concerned.
  8. If I were trying this in the car flat backed in a driveway; I would drop the exhaust at the header and bracket off the back of the tranny. I don't think you need to disassemble it further just let it dangle. Then drop the back tranny subframe off. Its 4 14mm bolts I believe. The shift linkage is 2 roll pins. You can smash them both out at once but be gentle and properly do one at a time The rear housing seal is much easier to remove after the housing is pulled. punch the seal out from its rear side. Just mangle the old seal out of the orifice without scratch anything too much. Install new seal Watch it leak instantly Those seals always on these cars are always bad. Just check fluid frequently so you don't get any surprises.
  9. The boot is the most pain, you have to pull the harness anf fish it out. Go to each plug and pull it anywhere it is attached pop it out. Then it should be 4 12mm. Front and rear have a 10 mm or screw in the well that attaches it to the fender or quarter then it just pops out, after you detach it from the fender liner. What are you doing?
  10. At night since we have a lot of it this year, point the car at a wall/ garage hit the switch. If the lights dim it's the window regulator if they don't it's a switch.
  11. To my knowledge its original hardware, doesn't seem like its been messed with before. Previous over ran it out of oil and I was wondering why and just found a dropped exhaust valve guide yesterday when I was going to put the head back on. The markings are only on some wrist pins, I have a bucket at work I was going through, and without putting any through our parts washer I only found a hand full. I need to steep up and buy a better micrometer tenths of a thousand would be rad to be able to see.
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