lgt.kevin

Forgive the old thread revival, however I feel this update is worth giving. At this point, Scott has repaid me in full. This doesn't excuse anything, but I wanted any others who had a bad experience with Scott, to know that he made it right with me in the end. I hope he has done the same for others.

Alright, here is my update. I have had my 05 STi 6 Speed in for about 10k miles. Here was my recipe: 05 STi 6MT, 05 STi rear diff, Spec B Rear Axles, LGT Front axles, 4EAT Driveshaft. I also did a whole host of other upgrades at the time which greatly change how the swap feels to me: SpecB Rear Diff Carrier, Whiteline Diff Carrier Bushings(front and rear), Torque Solutions Driveshaft bushings(aluminum), Whiteline trans crossmember bushings, Cusco Trans and Motor Mounts, Kartboy Shifter Bushings, and shift linkage pivot bushings, Perrin Pitch Stop Mount, Cobb STi Short Shifter set at shortest height and throw. I also did a ACT StreetLite Flywheel, and ACT XTSS clutch kit with Braided SS Clutch line. The only reason to give such an extensive parts list is to identify that my experience is very different from a mostly stock vehicle having a 6MT swap in that it is a very stiff ride, and lots of NVH(not exaggerating lots). It is quite nice to drive, though I echo the need to shift frequently. I moved to the city not long before I did the swap, and I have found that there is a huge increase in the number of shifts needed to get up to the flow of traffic. The only warning I would give about this swap is this: Consider carefully if you want a lightweight flywheel with a 6 speed. My reason is that the 6MT is already a close ratio 1-4. I have to shift very fast with my ACT Streetlite flywheel to smooth my shifts, unless I double-clutch and rev match. That being said, I am interested in whether something is possible. I am aware that some of the STi's came with a 3.54 in the rear differential. In theory, could I swap out for a 3.54 gearing in the rear, and have the front diff re-geared to 3.54 to match the rear diff? I haven't found any data on anyone doing this, so either it doesn't exist, or I am not very good at searching. Any thoughts?

I mounted and wired mine the same as Hammer Down. Just take your time and double check everything.

Both of mine came out with a end wrench, and a firm smack with a dead blow hammer. Not too bad, just don't use brute force. From what I understand the LGT and STi switches have reversed polarity from one another? Or at least I thought I read that somewhere. Also, quick update on my situation. I figured out my clutch situation. The new master cylinder I had gotten, was 5/8 diameter, not 11/16 as needed. This meant I wasn't getting enough fluid displacement into the slave to fully actuate the clutch. That being said, I actually used the master from a 2011 wrx, and it bolted right up and works beautifully. Everything feels great. Got the DCCDPro wired up and, functional(i think). I say I think, because when in auto mode, I have not seen any output from the LED on the manual/automatic switch. Can anyone weigh in on this and shed some light on exactly how this should look during everyday driving? I thought it showed varying brightness based upon the output to the center diff? In any case, the manual mode works just fine. I switch it over to manual, dial it up to fully locked, and it bucks like a mule when I try to turn on dry pavement at slow speed. Anyone have any thoughts on the automatic mode?

You may very well be right. I have heard from him a few times, but hardly anything noteworthy. I avoided posting anything up here until I could say what the outcome was, but so far, I am in the same boat with you hassa. I have had one bounced check, and a bunch of lies. My bank, as do most if not all, assesses me a fee for checks that return insufficient funds. So not only do I not have any of my money, but I have now paid another $10 just to get blown off. I have no problem allowing a person to prove me wrong and redeem themselves, but I am out a grand! To me that is unacceptable. Scott, if you by chance read this, you have every chance to redeem yourself. Either make sure your checks don't bounce, or send everyone who is owed money something they can trust. Cashiers Checks and Money Orders are fairly reliable, and much more tangible to someone who feels they have been slighted by you over and over, than a personal check with a 0% chance it will actually go through.

I didn't bench bleed the master. I really should have I think. I tried reverse bleeding a few times and no success. I am going to try a few things with a mityvac right now, and we'll see what happens. I also am going to try drawing a vacuum into the master cylinder res, pump the clutch pedal(which apparently will go dead) and then release the vacuum and see if that helps. A local shop owner here in slc, ut told me to try that. If that doesn't I will be bench bleeding the entire hydraulic system after that.

Well, everything is in the car, except I'm still wiring up the DCCDPro, but hardware-wise it's all put back together. Now I'm having the fabled clutch bleeding issue. I can't seem to get enough pressure in my system? After bleeding 10 or 15 times, gravity and pressure bleeding, I still can only get the slave to actuate the clutch fork for maybe half of the travel that it needs to, pedal travel is full, never sticks. I have a brand new slave and master cylinders, and a SS clutch line. Anyone have any tricks or tips that I may have missed to get this up and running?

Interesting, if it's with a 4 post, there isn't as much that can be done with the lift besides pulling exhaust components, driveshaft.. i think that's about it. Most of the work can be done on jackstands, just more on your back and less standing.

Definitely use a lift. I have done 99% of my swap thus far on a lift and it has been 100% easier than all the other work done on jackstands. I am currently at a standstill as my 6mt slave cylinder that came with my trans is bad. However, as soon as that is fixed, I will post up my experience. I also went with Recipe A. I am using an STi Cobb STS with the STi reverse lockout and a few well-placed zip ties on the spec.b shift linkage, and everything looks good so far. Many thanks to all those in this thread who have already done this swap, as literally, I could not have done it without all of the knowledge your experiences brought to light. Does anyone know if the STi Clutch Master Cylinder is compatible with the LGT? I know they aren't the same part number, just thought I'd ask, since the impreza variation is so much cheaper.

If I lived even remotely close to him, I would have confronted him face to face months ago. I am not a violent or physical person, so I never would have resorted to anything like that. I do feel that an in person face-to-face conversation often yields more honesty, and in some cases, humility if that is what is needed. But it can be hard to say that it would have changed anything at this point.

They are different part numbers. Spec.B - 35060AG010 04-06 STi - 35060FE000 07+ STi - 35060FG000 I believe that Spec.B cable is slightly longer. I have an STi cable that came with my 05 trans so i will see if i experience the same problem.

I have heard from him about 3 weeks ago. I called his work, and spoke with him directly. He was very concerned and asked how I got that number. I told him that I am good with computers, and the number was also posted on the forums, but that overall it was beside the point. He once again promised something that he did not follow through on. I have given this man more patience than he deserves. I was willing to wait for my money back, seeing as how bad things happen even to the best people. I made it known through text, email, voicemail, and PM on this website, that I was more than willing to work with him so as not to burden his finances too much at one time. All of these niceties which I have given him have gotten me nowhere. I feel as if I will never be paid back, which is unacceptable to me. The last recorded communication I have from him is a text sent on the 18th of September, 2013 stating he was going to get me a partial payment in the mail the following day. I have yet to receive any payment, or additional communications. Not happy at all.

It's funny, I have followed this thread back when Hammer Down and NSFW had separate threads, before I even had an account here, and always wondered why it was so difficult to find the SpecB axles, besides the limited production of the car. Now it makes more sense. Does anyone know the differences between the SpecB and STi versions of the Cobb STS? Trying to determine if one or the other is necessary with my 05STi 6MT that is going in this coming weekend. Same with stainless steel clutch lines, does anyone know if I need a SpecB specific part? I have tried to search these forums and spent a good amount of time cross-referencing on opposedforces.com, but I haven't been able to find anything conclusive for either question. Any help is greatly appreciated. And if I have missed something in my searching, feel free to let me know that I should have looked harder.

No insult at all, just what the dyno said, that doesn't always mean it's 100% correct. Not only that, it was done on a mustang dyno, and I am very interested what a hub dyno shows. My E85 tune is 450awhp@22psi, and I can tell you it moves on that tune. It just seems like the psi numbers don't match the power level, but whatever, it's getting re-tuned with water/meth soon anyways. Also, I appreciate your input, as I wanted something different clutch-wise. Any other recommendations? I am willing to accept any input. Anyone here have trans mount recommendations? I am looking at the cusco trans and motor mounts, just hoping for an idea of what most people like with the 6spd. I don't really mind NVH even though it's my DD.

I am running an AVO380@20psi, AVO FMIC, AVO Fuel Pump, DW850 Injectors, Full Forged internals, Bored over to roughly 2.55L. Tuned very well by Surgeline Tuning(Cobb). It needs to be re-tuned, and I would bet after around 30k of hard driving and many launches on this tune, that it will show slightly less power if re-dyno'd.