mbeadon

@85,000 miles with stock everything until 72k when I did 3 revisions of Infamous (remote) tuning. As a big plus from that is that the Tactrix cable has saved me hundreds of dollars during this misfire problem. Leakdown and pressure test showed 25% leakage in Cyl#3 and 30% in Cyl#2. Exhaust valves in Cyl#2 needed to be replaced and resurfaced in Cyl#3. Got the car back and was shocked at how smooth the idle is now. I guess that crept up on me over time so I didn't notice how rough it had gotten. Sadly in <30mi I got a P0011 and now I've lost my car again though my mechanic says that there is a bulletin on this code having to do with a banjo bolt filter going into the turbo. Hopefully he's right about the cause and this is an "easy" fix... to be continued...

My saga continues. I had CEL with cylinder 2 misfire. I swapped the fuel injector between cylinders 1&2 (the two easiest to reach). I also cleaned the MAF sensor. Drove about 6 wks with no CEL and a smug grin on my face. Then this week another misfire with heavy AC load. The idle got quite rough and I cleared it only to get another the next day. :-( So now compression and leak test? Local shop ok or must it be done by the dealership? Compression I think I understand but where are the leaks that people are seeing? In a related question how hard should it be to pull out the fuel injectors? My troublesome cylinder 2was all I could manage to pull it out and the other was so tight I had to pry it free with a screwdriver. Then putting them back in I lubed them with fuel and still had to put all my weight into it. There must be a better way. Anyone care to share it with me?

Another me too. 05 LGT manual transmission @82000 miles. About a month ago I got P0302 MISFIRE CYLINDER 2 and P0000 PASS CODE (NO DTC DETECTED). Assumed/hoped it was bad gas since my tank was nearly empty. Cleared the code and ran fine another 3 wks before getting the same codes again. This time I cleared the codes and flashed back to stock (I was running an infamous tuned ECU). Another week and I got the same codes again. Tank is full of "premium" California gas. It seems like the consensus is to swap the injectors and if that doesn't help to clean the MAF. I don't know how to do either but I guess that's why I bought the service manual... Any tips on how to proceed? The MAF = Mass air flow and intake air temp sensor I found that in FU(H4DOTC)-27. Removal appears to be easy, what should I clean it with? The injectors = fuel injectors I presume? Found those in FU(H4DOTC)-29. Do I really need to remove the coolant tank? ugh I hope not. New o-rings also seems overly anal but what do I know? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Core: Not sure, because I don't have factory nav, but I remember seeing nav wires listed on the wiring diagram. I don't have access to my wiring diagrams right now but could send them in a week or so if you want (PM me). Rusty: Not sure about the white piece in the connector. As long as the tab holding each pin works well (not bent) then I think the white piece is unecessary but for the record I put mine back in. I didn't want to have to tear the dash off during my 2000 mile road trip .

Holiday madness and now I finally have a few minutes while everyone's napping. I was successful in installing my '07 radio in my '05 wagon. Merry Christmas to me! The aux jack works well! Extra bonus is that the new head unit play mp3/wma cds. Still not as cool as the Mini Cooper that can play music straight off USB memory stick but I'm happy! I've attached a few pics: 989: shows the hole after everything is removed. (don't let this scare you!) 991: shows the air vent connector I had trouble with before removing the radio. 992: The garmin FM traffic receiver tapped into my 12V 994: '05 radio on left and '07 on right 1004: a tip I'd like to pass on for removing the pins from the connector for re-use for aux-in line: Push a piece of stiff wire into the gap above the wire (as shown) and this will release the tab that holds the pin in the connector. Then gently pull the wire and cable and the pin should come out. Finally I initially had some ground loop issues (engine whine coupled onto audio) when playing mp3s from my gps (plugged into 12V) attached to the aux-in jack. Removing the gps from 12V power prevented the symptom but clearly wasn't the cause. I went back and cleaned my battery terminal before re-attaching it and presto no more ground loop noise (for now). Hopefully it stays fixed. I unplugged the battery several times during my install since I was a touch paranoid about getting an airbag in the face. So maybe that's why I ended up having a bad connection. Remember terminals should be clean, bright, and tight. I haven't got my "after" picture yet but my aux in jack looks a lot like Deer Killer's. Then I have my garmin nuvi mounted in the cubby above the radio. Very happy with the result. Thanks all and expecially Deer Killer for starting this thread. P.S. I'll try to post my after picture but no promises when.

I heard a similar story from my dealer. I got my new radio a couple weeks ago and he gave me some story who's point was that I owed him big time for finagling this part for me. I'm in the process of installing my '07 radio in my '05 wagon. I removed the old radio yesterday (I was surprised how easy it was) and I'm hoping to modify the wiring harness today to add the aux jack and put it all back together. I'll take some pictures of the interesting parts. Initial interesting points: My '05 wiring harness matches the '07 radio but the new radio has an extra 14+ pin connector for the nav option that wasn't available in 05. Also the location of the connectors on the back of radio has changed somewhat. I got my dealer to print out the '07 radio wiring diagram for me since my manuals are all for my '05. I intend to use the diagram to run an aux jack to the armrest. There are 6 screws holding the radio in place: 4 up front near the trim (pictures to follow) and 2 set deeper in the dash near the top of the radio (note the two highest screws in the trim do not need to be removed). Warning: the two screws set deep in the dash are easy to drop (and lose) so be careful when removing them. One of mine is now buried somewhere under the carpeting. @!#$ With the radio out and the air vent removed it's easy to run wires up to install a gps unit in the cubby above the radio. I was initial uncertain about removing the vent cover but I kept pulling and it popped out. However the wiring harness for the mileage computer is so short that it broke the tab that keeps it in place as I was removing the air vent. Plugging that wire back in without having the radio removed requires either some tool to grasp the connector or tiny hands. However with the radio out it's relatively easy. The second electrical connector on the air vent is longer and so easier to plug back in during re-assembly. Anyone else figure out how to remove the air vent without damaging the connector? Or did I just end up with an unusually short wiring harness? I suspect (but it's too late to confirm on my car) that removing the radio and reaching up to disconnect the wire on the bottom of the air vent before removing the air vent should work. BTW I don't know how many of you have been as annoyed as me by subaru's pdf manuals and the absurd download restrictions but I finally bought the whole set from some guy on ebay and it's great! Not only did I get all the manuals at once but they are indexed and linked within the pdf. Also each manual page is named something reasonable instead of some useless string of random characters.

It was and I tried to but the dealership said there would be no returns on the part since it wasn't for the right model year. They also wouldn't guarantee that it fits etc etc. Anyway bodyshop said they couldn't take the risk so I called the dealership and placed the order myself. Apparently there's one in IN and I'll get it next week. I'll be out of town unfortunately but I'll let y'all know how it goes. Been without reliable HVAC for 16 days now (100% dead for 6). Luckily I can roll down the window to cool off and crank the seat heater to stay warm. If the radio goes I might just lose it.

Anybody have any luck ordering the '07 radio recently? I tried subarugenuineparts.com and "thekingofparts" that were recommended on this thread. The first allowed me to order the part but then canceled my order because the part is "available only for warranty replacement". And the king has been deposed, or at least their website is dead. I also sent emails to a few places listed on copartfinder but got no response. Probably should have phoned but now I'm out of patience so I'm ordering through the stealership.

Thought this problem was because of a recent fender bender but apparently not. Don't tell my insurance company. '05 LGT with 55k started about 2 weeks ago. The HVAC display would go dead but fan was on and kept blowing whatever temp was last selected but none of the controls would change it. Could not duplicate at the dealership so they didn't do anything. A couple days ago it went from intermittant to 100% dead. Radio still works and I've noticed that the radio display doesn't dim at night even though the rest of the instrument panels does. I'm using this as an opportunity to upgrade to '07 head unit to get the aux in.