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compsurge

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  1. Did you disconnect the battery from the car? Have you put the car in ON for 30 seconds for the ECU to reset before trying to start again? Previously, was the starter hanging (starter would engage, but would stop before cranking)? If it was, this is common and the pinion shaft needs to be re-greased.
  2. 5EAT is not a CVT. You have not provided much pertinent information about the condition of the car, so I'll make an attempt to give you some background on these cars. If you do not have the access to tools and spare $5-6k in emergency funds to buy another car or replacement engine shortblock and turbo, do not consider it. It is a 15-16 year old turbo engine and the cars are notorious for dashboard rattles, rust in the rear wheel wells, door belt trim needing replacement, and some have issues with the #4 cylinder ringland or turbo failure. Others have issues with the center differential transfer drive bearings. The radiator is probably going to fail at some point >150k miles. The intercooler is probably leaking by now as well. Rear wheel bearings fail occasionally. I am at 186k miles now on the original drivetrain. I have done most of my own work. I have replaced my center transfer drive bearings at ~100k (and again at 180k when I replaced the center diff and transfer gear shafts). I've replaced my left rear wheel bearing twice. Water pump and radiator within a few months of each other at 150k or so. I perform regular service to fluids (~5k miles on Rotella T6, 60k on the gear oils). My starter needs to be removed and greased because it hangs during warm restarts in the winter now, but that is a fairly straightforward DIY. I think I have averaged a mechanical breakdown of some sort every two or three years of ownership (going on 10 years now).
  3. I'd go for the contextual clues in this post - https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5567822&postcount=15 STI Pinks, Swift, Epic Engineering are similar in height.
  4. PLA is an absolute no-no for anything going into a car. It will warp and deform in the summer heat or underhood temperatures. ABS is probably one of the better options, as it can be smoothed with acetone vapor. PETG is great and does not have as high a susceptibility to warpage during printing. For any of the prints, you can use automotive sandable primer to add a top coat and finish with paint for a clean look.
  5. Compression and/or leakdown test. You seem to be throwing parts and money at the problem. Try to use this thread to guide your troubleshooting and avoid unnecessary expense. Codes don't pinpoint the issue, they only tell you the electrical circuit where the fault (a misfire in this case) is occurring. Check basics for air inlet, inlet sensors, and vacuum lines. Check hoses, clamps, seals etc. Check battery voltage under load (take it to an autoparts store to test). Swap injectors. See if the code follows the swap. Swap coil pack. See if the code follows the swap. Perform a compression and/or leakdown test. Are you burning oil? Do you have oil in your coolant?
  6. I did center diff bearings about 70k miles ago. I drove with them making noise until it started getting louder (for at least 20k miles) and I was able to figure out what it was and swapped the bearings myself. Since you are changing them now, you'll probably be fine. +1 on the any-mechanical failure to the engine or trans and I'm going electric bandwagon.
  7. Have you swapped coils and injectors (one at a time) between two cylinders yet?
  8. Thanks. I paid $15 for my highly-rated clone hotend (I turned it down on a lathe), so I'll give it a run for a little. I was planning on machining a metal end effector. I don't know if you're in contact with Terence, but the forums have been down for 9 months now (no one can post). Did the backers of the prebuilt machines finally get refunded?
  9. What happens in neutral when stopped while warm?
  10. The OpenBeam variety? I'm a OBKP operator. I just upgraded to the X5 Mini and modified an E3D hotend to fit the end effector this week. I'm excited to see how it performs.
  11. Did you read the factory service manual? http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3351577&postcount=1 See the attached PDFs. 8) Check the ATF level. <Ref. to 5AT-27, Automatic Transmission Fluid.> 9) Perform the Clear Memory 2. <Ref. to 5AT(di- ag)-17, CLEAR MEMORY MODE, OPERATION, Subaru Select Monitor.>
  12. Is the hole too tight or did the whole part shrink? I have to compensate for about 1% shrinkage in my prints.
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