whitehe9

I noticed a post on NASOIC indicating the OEM Exedy SMFW - FJK1001FW (replacement for OEM DMFW) doesn't fit the 2000.5 LGT. Not sure if its true. Does anyone know if 2005 vs. 2005.5 matters for the clutch part numbers?

As it turns out, my hoses are in good shape and my boost seems to be fine. the rev'ing is the clutch. Someone please explain why the clutch slips so badly in gears 3 - 5 but i can engage the clutch with no problem in 1st gear and go full throttle through first and 2nd through the power band. i consider myself easy on clutches - drove a VR6 to 160,000 miles no problems and a wrx to 130,000 w/o problems, yet my GT has 130k and seems to be shot (albiet a fair amount more Hp).

also no codes are produced so there is nothing to scan.

130,000 mi on my 05 manual LGT. Mine started doing this last week. I'll check the things reported in this thread and find out if it fixes anything. I also have stage 1 Cobb (only mod besides the k&n box filter). My reputable import mechanic (not dealer) drove it and thinks my clutch may be wearing out and the wastegate opens to protect the clutch under heavy torque. However after driving it tonight I'm able to produce pretty good torque in first gear but if i'm at 55mph and stomp on the gas (hardly any torque in 5th gear at 55mph), the wastegate opens and the rpms fly up quickly without producing much torque. maybe i have both problems?

i bought a used car that came with the rack but no plastic inserts everyone says you need. I cut up some plastic strips and slid them in between the bar and the plastic bar covering to fill in the space. It beats electrical tape and i couldn't believe how quiet the factory rack is without a wind fairing. i'll still consider putting on a fairing if i can find one that works with the sunroof though. credit cards would work nicely, but i know you need them to buy all those 'go fast' parts!

i don't think you want the aerobars for your rack. i had em for the wrx and didn't use them. you would have to buy a thule adapter which has clamps to go around the aero bar, which would mount a thule square bar directly above the aero bar. i also have the conversion kit i described for my wife's nissan pathfinder. you'd be hard pressed to fit 2 bikes on the bar (it is only 2' long) and it is a pain to take on and off the thule part from the factory aeros. i bought that kit at a bike shop 2 years ago. who knows, maybe now thule or yak makes direct connections to factory aero bars? hope this helps.

Anyone know of a rack wind deflector/visor that will not interfere with the sunroof? My rack seems pretty quiet but shields help with noise, mileage, and cool factor.

Thanks Subietonic. I needed nothing more than your excellent description in your step No.1. The rack is now perfectly fit and secure. Turns out, my "cams" were under the bars, not in them. I still found getting the bars even on each side of the car to be a bit of a pian and don't look forward to removing the rack and re-installing it. For those of you installing the factory rack for the first time, Subietonic's Step 1. is critical!!!! I don't think the directions with the rack tell you to do that (at least not very descriptive). You must turn the foot upside down and jiggle it until the metal "cam" falls into place so you can slide the bar thorugh it. Also be sure all the "locks" are in the unlock position (I screwed this up the first time too). My new conclusion is: This is a good rack system but the directions should have been more clear. If I'd have mounted anything to the rack the way I first had it installed, it would have been on the pavement in no time. Wind noise goes pretty un-noticed up to 75mph (with just the bars). I improvised filling in the slots in the bars with some plastic strips. Cut up credit cards would work best for this but I realize most of you need these to buy all your 'go fast' parts.

Anyone having the same trouble mounting the factory Mont Blanc rack I am? I tighten the cranks as hard as I can and the rack still wiggles around and doesn't feel secure. The rubber feet stick up 1/4-inch above the rails so the only parts touching are the clasp on the inside of the rails and the very bottom of the foot on the outside. Have any close up pics of what it should look like? So far, over an hour into it and my conclusion is - "I can't believe Subaru put their name on this product". They should be called Mont Crap. Hurry, bicycle racing starts soon.