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Andy_Mac

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  • Location
    New Zealand
  • Car
    '06 JDM GT Spec.B manual wagon

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  1. None besides the s-gt impreza have that uppipe? How is it clogged? There isn't anything in it besides two flex sections.
  2. The pump cradle seal can perish too. I had some trouble getting mine to seal for a while so had leaks in the same place. Whip out the back seat base and take off the cover and you'll be able to see if it's wet around it.
  3. The front diff shares the same fluid as the trans, don't try putting specialty diff fluid like you have for the rear diff in there. Chances are someone just rounded the old plug and installed a new one. It's worth removing both and checking if they are magnetized ones and if so removing all accumulated material.
  4. The BL/BP gen single turbo ones are much more reliable and easier to mod but the BE/BH TT set up is quite an interesting beast. If you do settle on a TT you should consider a rev.D (2001 facelift) version as their ECU’s are tunable so you can do alot more with them
  5. Check the ILM fuse in the cabin fuse box properly. One popped up on a local forum with similar symptoms and turned out to be just that. Does the headlight bulb on the dash still light up?
  6. Yea megasquirt are good for simple setups but don't think it will be able to control the dash or any other CAN based modules which is quite important for these vehicles. Have a chat with this guy. He's going to be using a Hydra EMS which apparently is plug and play including dash stuff and includes additional wiring you'll need for the extra cylinders. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/new-year-new-build-v-3-0-ri-277229.html
  7. Think from memory that is one for an electric seat. The speaker ones are all in one large connector under there for the amped systems so it won't be that. Get the door trim off and have a look at the speaker cone. The cardboard like cone material has a tendency to disintegrate. The Mcintosh ones are especially prone to it if that the set up you have?
  8. It's not on the pump itself. There is a solenoid on top of the engine kind of under the manifold in front of the turbo. It attaches to that shiny bolt in the centre of this pic. The plate below the turbo is blocking the tube that goes down next to the uppipe which would usually open up to the head. Heaps of useful pics in here. You'd replace the turbo side solenoid if the baro sensor was dead, not the pump itself. Find a logger/reader to check the baro pressure before forking out for a new one though. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2007-2009-air-pump-delete-cel-codes-and-ecu-fix-140259.html
  9. Its in the black plastic part on top of the solenoid that has been already removed in this pic. You can slightly make out some holes in the top which I believe are the sensor ports. I've had to try remedy a few cars that have had the sensor not installed after deleting the air pump. With it unplugged a permanent atmo reading is given to the ECU so you can tune around it quite easily if at a constant elevation but elevation changes cannot be compensated by the ECU this way so it won't run perfectly
  10. Is the 05 NA limited manual (not sure on what lower spec US vehicles came as)? If auto remember the trans tunnel is a different shape so a custom trans subframe is needed. If manual them the chassis is all the same. Can Megasquirt do any CAN communication? Haven't previously heard of anyone trying but you'll be in for a whole heap of work getting basic car functions to work unless you piggyback it with the stock ECU. A more costly option would be an EMTron (MY06+) or Haltech (pre-MY06) ECU which has been proven to work on JDM Legacy’s with very few changes needed to wiring, besides adding extra wiring for additional cylinders of course. The CANBUS has been decoded for JDM and AUD vehicles so only minor work will be needed to carry that over to US vehicles.
  11. Don't think they lower it much if at all. Ride height looks similar on US ones to JDM ones. JDM pink springs are a good choice for a mild 15mm-ish drop on JDM struts but are expensive for the limited drop you get. The valving just isn't designed for the higher spring rate and limited travel which in most cases causes them to ride quite poorly. It isn't a uniquely Tein spring issue but an issue with almost all lowering springs in general on the factory struts. You can pull them apart and regrease the internals which can help a heap but isn't a long term fix.
  12. Fronts also work if you have a compatible top hat to swap over. Most JDM Bilsteins are thrashed too so you end up being lucky to get 20-30k km out of them. They're usually swapped out because they're starting to get a touch knocky. Well worth getting a properly designed product for the situation.
  13. What’s the pricing like between king and OEM stateside? Down these ways King are more commonly used on cheaper builds due to them being considerably cheaper than sourcing the correct factory ones. Quite a few shops doing big power builds will only use OEM ones as the tolerances are apparently much better. This is all for 2.0 engines but cant see there being any reason why this wouldn’t apply other than the longer stroke adding slightly different loading conditions.
  14. Using windows on a small screen has always been the one downside to carpc’s. A 7-8 inch display just doesn't have enough real estate to function well with a touchscreen. I'm in the process of moving from a Nexus 7 to a Latte Panda using their 7inch touch screen. Thought I might be able to cope with just the touch screen but it leaves a lot to be desired when having to use the windows on display keyboard. I've since purchased a Mokibo keyboard as a trial for a small-ish keyboard/touchpad combo to live in the glovebox for when more than opening and closing apps, maybe navigation, is needed. I'll be using Realdash or my aftermarket ECU software. For a factory ECU car it's still super hard to look past the usability of Android with custom roms.
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