RuhRoh

Read through the first few posts and the last few pages, and have a few questions. I have a 2005 Legacy GT 5MT with about 146k and no major drivetrain issues. I've purchased a new car and will be selling the GT shortly, and want to be sure I'm not selling a time bomb to the new owner. It's on its original turbo and has never been modded. A couple of months ago, when it was still my daily driver, I got a check engine light that stayed on for a few days and didn't go away when I filled it with gas and retightened the cap. Took it to my local indy shop, which doesn't specialize in Subies, but is generally quite competent. Here's what the is written on the service order: "Computer diagnostics, check engine light on. No drivability issues, had codes P0011 camshaft bank 1 over advanced and PO302, cylinder 2 misfire. Due to prior history working on similar vehicles the tech checked for oil level and found no oil on dipstick. The camshaft is operated partially from oil pressure and with no oil the cam position was incorrect, which can also cause a misfire. No sign of any oil leaking, possible turbo issue. Completed BG decarbonizing oil service, cleared codes and turned off light. Ran vehicle and light remained off. Performed BG decarbonizing oil service." What the service writer told me was that one bank was oil starved with no oil on the dipstick. I had been out of the country for a couple of weeks but I know I had checked the oil level at least in the week or two before I had left and had found it fine. So that was a new issue. He also said the oil might have been going out the tailpipe or the turbo, but I had seen no smoke, nor heard any unusual noises from the turbo. The writer also said that performing the oil decarbonization process -- flushing the engine oil and decarbonizing it -- might help. And if the check engine light doesn't come back on, then we might be in the clear. It has been more than 1,000 miles, the check engine light has stayed off, and the oil level is ok. My new car is here so the GT is no longer my daily driver. Questions: -- do I need to be worried about turbo being ready to fail on the new owner? -- have people done turbo replacements before they go bad, and if so, how much does that generally cost? --what other signs should I be looking for? Thanks!

Reviewed Tire: Continental ContiExtreme DW (215/45 ZR-17 XL) -- summer max performance Location: Northern Virginia Use: Daily driver/roadtrip/familymobile -- mostly suburban driving, with a good roadtrip element thrown in every summer Previous tires: OEM Bridgestone RE92 Well, I'm taking advantage of Continental's 60-day test drive and I'm returning them to the Tire Rack. They are just too damned loud! I'm getting a set of Bridgestone RE760s to replace them. This is what's strange: I also have a set of the exact same tires in a different size and with a different load rating on my 2001 VW GTI and they work great there -- no complaints at all. Don't know if there is significantly more sound insulation in the VW, if the different load rating somehow makes a difference, or if I have a defective tire (or tires) on the Scooby. Whatever it is, the tires are so loud it reminds me of when my rear wheel bearing went bad last summer. I was hoping that breaking them in a bit might help, but after a month of using them they have gotten no better. The last straw was last weekend taking my four-year-old daughter on a minor road trip with her portable DVD player, and she couldn't hear it even with the volume turned all the way up. This is my daily driver/roadtrip/familymobile so that's just no good. Otherwise, they performed just fine. Excellent grip dry or wet and a firm but perfectly reasonable ride. Just wish they weren't so loud.