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Fred H

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About Fred H

  • Birthday 03/28/1943

Personal Information

  • Location
    Rhode Island
  • Car
    White 2015 3.6R, Whiteline RSB, SSD FSB
  • Interests
    PMTS skiing
  • Occupation
    Retired

Fred H's Achievements

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  1. Other tire review sites: https://www.tyrereviews.com/ and https://www.thetirelab.com/245-45-R18/summer/ My approach was to choose the summer tire that was best in the wet — a Conti, as it turned out this time.
  2. Interestingly, I found the most complete information on my battery issue by asking on an audio site. They pointed me to an Outback thread that blamed Subaru turning off the alternator periodically to save gas and an unreliable entry to sleep mode. Here are the two threads: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/car-battery-pulsing.45687/#post-1629036 https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/2017-outback-battery-issue-lack-of-starlink-subscription-cause.531683/page-2
  3. Thank you. I’ll take it off — and accept the likelihood that my every-two-year battery replacement history will continue. I like the car enough that it’s worth it.
  4. I've had bad luck with batteries for my 2015 3.6; replaced it after two years. Three times! (Life was busy and I wasn't paying attention.) Just after the free replacement window closed I needed a jump, one year after the last replacement. This (finally!) made me look at my battery history and I learned about the battery settlement. I also bumped into the pulse technology that purports to increase battery longevity. In an effort to end my two-year cycle, I installed a $50 unit on the car that pulses the battery (Power Pulse 12V Desulfator PP-12-L). I choose this company because they originated the technology. I don't know if it will really do any good but I wanted to mention it.
  5. I’ve just had my ‘15 windshield replaced with aftermarket glass for the second time. Neither time did I need to have Eyesight calibrated. It cost $299 plus sales tax and it was done at our house. Doing my car and my wife’s Mini took 50 minutes. All the sparkles are gone. Yea.
  6. I’m 79; my days of working on cars are past. But I can still enjoy driving them.
  7. FYI, received quotes from my local shop to replace bushings and ball joints in both arms with oem parts. Buying the parts plus labor was $700, buying the arms to reduce the labor was $1,000 (both excluding alignment). With dealer labor rates I expect that the prices would be closer.
  8. Thank you. I was thinking along the same lines and appreciate the confirmation. As I don't track the car I'll stick with oem.
  9. The rear bushings on one arm are loose. The car has 107.5K miles and I plan to keep it. I have several questions: 1. Should I replace just the bushings or the arm? 2. If the arm, should I also replace the ball joint? 3. If the arm, should I replace both sides? 4. If both sides, are there some firmer bushings I should consider? I've read what I could find about the Perrins; they seem too stiff for our New England ripples and potholes. But I couldn't find any other alternatives to OEM firmness.
  10. If I understand the results correctly the fluid is in good shape. I'm going to follow their "do it again in 25K miles" suggestion although I suspect it's standard. I was happily surprised at the good results at the 100K mileage.2015 LEGACY 3.6R-CVT-100K-220202.pdf
  11. $281.31 plus tax. They removed and replaced 6.5qt. I've sent a sample for testing and I'll post the results when they are available.
  12. I had the shocks (8610-1453S front, 8010-1055S rear) installed a few days ago. I chose the softer of the two model alternatives because of the stock springs. I haven't changed the springs because I live in New England and frequently drive in snow and/or dirt roads. The first change I made to the car was mud flaps; the second was Primitive skid pans. The installer set them mid-range, I immediately backed them off to minimum because our secondary roads have fully grown frost heaves and unfilled potholes. The firm-riding snow tires affected this decision too. From reading about the shocks, the compression stroke isn't adjustable; all adjustment is on rebound. I learned three things about adjusting rebound from reading: (1) If adjusted too tightly they can "ratchet" towards full compression, "locking" the suspension; (2) The overall adjustment affects the ride quality and tire adhesion; and, (3) Different adjustments front/rear primarily affect the transient behavior entering and leaving curves by increasing the roll stiffness. The first change from all-minimum was 1/2 turn firmer on the rear shocks. I wanted the rear of the car to have a greater sense of controlability. Increasing the transient rear roll stiffness should accomplish that. But what I got was twitchiness; when I entered a turn at moderate speeds the rear felt like it wanted to come out. Then, when I did a U turn at a traffic light it popped out. So I increased the front so I have 1/4 turn difference; this feels right so far but I may have to reduce the difference further. Note: I have front and rear strut bars, a Whiteline rear sway bar set to 22mm stiffness and well-lubricated, firm (85d) CKE sway bar bushings (link). My thinking from this experience is that the first provides a solid base for the suspension, the second better balances the car mid-curve. And the lubricated bushings affect the entering/leaving-curve transients (causing the sway bars to have an effect more quickly). So the stiff rear sway bar combined with the initial shock rebound difference to give too much transient rear roll stiffness. So, how's the ride? On highways, it's good. I've traded the floaty feeling I was getting (100K miles) for a better controlled, still comfortable ride. Secondary roads are significantly harsher, with bangs from the tires hitting holes. But I still like the change. I'm looking forward to putting the summer tires back on as they ride better.
  13. I asked my dealer about replacing the CVT fluid as I'm now over 100k miles. The response was "Absolutely!" (which I was surprised to hear). When I asked about doing it 2-3 times to replace enough fluid I was told that they remove about 8 quarts when they do it and that they didn't think it was necessary to do it more than once. My compromise was to ask for a sample of the fluid removed. I will have it tested, and make a decision on another replacement from that. The replacement will be done next week but it will be a few weeks before I get the test results.
  14. Tires are certainly an important component of "a better ride", regardless of how you define it. I'm in much the same place (older and approaching 100K miles), except that I'm looking for better handling. However, I think there's an overlap in the desirable changes. By replacing the front struts with Excel-G struts you may be able to have the reduced transients of the later sixth generation cars. I don't know if you would have to replace other suspension parts to do this. Second Grnlantern1's suggestion to upgrade the rear sway bar and add strut bars. I've made these changes and each one made the car better. I like my CKE sway bar bushings with zerk fittings added to keep them greased. These made about the same improvement as each of the other suspension changes. After reading of Grnlantern1's experience with his radiator cap I've ordered a replacement for mine. I haven't considered changing the CVT fluid, it seems like a good idea as I'd like to keep the car for another 100K miles. I'd like to hear others' thoughts.
  15. I accept your experience, and the operation of your Android phone. However, without cell service my (first SE) iPhone shows the downloaded map, but doesn't move either the map or the car on the map when the external GPS receiver is turned off until I either turn it on or approach a cell tower.
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