hallowground

So my 2011 legacy 3.6r limited has the head unit that has the navi and harmon kardon sound system to it. I was just in an accident a few days ago where the entire passenger side was damaged and the back wheel was caught and essentially ripped to the side breaking either the hub, the axle or both. That being said the car may be totalled. The radio however had an unlimited serius xm subscription when i bought the car and it is obviously the better way to go over fm radio. My question is, would i be able to take the head unit out and radio reciever and put it in a another car and still have that subscription if my insurance would allow me to just purchase those parts back? I have a 2006 matrix that i have been wanting to upgrade the head unit on because it does not recieve signal well and was curious. Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

Can i ask a random question that relates to the fog lights? Where on earth is the harness to plug in the switch to control the lights. I found the plug that goes into the fog light itself but i cant find the harness that actually goes to the switch. Is there not one on the 5th gen? Is it a hardwiring thing i have to do? Anyone have links to find this info. I have looked through all the aftermarket fog light install threads and none of them tell you the location of a harness even if it exists. Im lost Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

I will say this about subaru mpg display. In both my '11 legacy and '17 outback it displayed higher than what I was actually getting. My legacy was getting 2.5mpg less than displayed and the outback about 1.5 less. So i would actually fill it up completely till it clicks. Drive it till about 1/4 tank and fill it up till it clicks again and test it for yourself. Make sure to reset your trip meter after you fill it up the first time. Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

So idk if the ascent is similar but i drove that and they were pretty comfortable. As my own experience i have a '11 legacy 3.6r limited and a '17 outback 2.5i limited and shockingly the legacy has way more comfortable seats. I think one of the issues is they make seats too big nowadays and there is no bolstering on them so you flop around everywhere. Just my 2 pennies. Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

I have a BM supercooler 70264 that has a bypass built into it. Would it just be easier and better to just go from radiator to cooler to 5eat or should i pipe it like you recommended? Also i have a 2011 3.6r with 5eat and i was curious as to what filter is on these diagrams? Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

Hey guys im in the process of restoring my car back to as best shape as possible and i went and bought new bumpers for my 2011 legacy 3.6r due to scratches and chiping of paint. My question is how in the world do you get the bumper off in the rear? Replaced the front without an issue but i cannot figure out how to release the center part from the chassis. Idk if im missing some screw by the tail lights or something. Btw i was trying to do it without removing the taillight assembly but now i think i may have to. I found the subaru technical manual but its so indiscript it is not even funny. My goal is to get the vast majority of my paint fixed up so i can ceremic coat it. Im gonna attempt to drive this 300k miles plus and i want it to stay nice. Thanks for the imput. Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

All these people with 120k on their 6th gen and I'm over here with a 2011 3.6r with only 105k lol. How is the 3.6r with cvt holding up? Curious cause I'm debating on getting a 2017 3.6r outback Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

So take for example the 3.6 engine. When it first came out it said the oil change interval was 7500 miles or 3750 in severe environment. Now it is 6000 or 3000 in severe. What changed to the engine? Not a single thing. I think they realized they were having consumption issues and customers were noticing by going 7500 miles so they reduced the interval. However if the 2.5L engine is the same ej as it was 5 years ago it should be fine taking the old type of oil. Most companies are putting the thin oil from factory because of gas mileage which is stupid. The cost to fix an engine when it wears out or replace the consumed oil outweighs the cost of fuel. Btw burning oil is not great for emissions. Personally I would use 5w30 on all the subaru engines that say it can be used. I would also use premium gas too on all subarus but that is a completely different subject. Their compression ratio is too high to be running on 87 octane... there is a reason why subarus develop engine knock so early and it is mainly because of using lower octane of a long period of time. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Bad idea... Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Is there any king of corrosion on the battery terminal? Could indicate the alternator is overcharging it resulting in degrading the battery quicker. Also corrosion causes crappy connections. This happened in my 2011 legacy and also the place I got the battery gave me one with sub par cold cranking amps... I was ticked when I found out. Because the cca was low, my alternator had to over compensate which wore out the alternator faster. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Could you go into detail of why the short block was replaced? Unless there was damage it makes no financial sense to spend 5k on a short block for a 10k car. Was it leaking? Blown gasket? Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Hi I just moves to Maryland from Delaware and I can no longer work on my car at that place I live. I have a 2011 legacy 3.6r and my wife is possibly going to have an outback or an ascent so we are looking for a good mechanic that wont rob us blind. We live near columbia/Eldridge MD. Shoot if someone on here has a garage I would even love to rent it out for an hour or two when it comes down to it and I can do the work myself so it is done right and cheaper. I got a quote from a reputable shop in delaware for a full fluid change and tire rotation and it was only $550 and I checked one shop in maryland and they quoted me high 700s so... any shop recommendations guys? I did not like going to the dealer in delaware they suggested services that I know were not needed. Fuel system service... cabin air filter (after I just did it), air filter (I have a takeda intake and I clean it) Thanks guys Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Can this be used for coolant changes? I like to use oem stuff but subarus blue coolant is God awful price? Also how much do you need to replace the plant in a 2011 3.6r? Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

So I live in Delaware and was wondering if there are some reputable shops anywhere an hour of Dover, DE. I use to like going to the dealership once every three or four maintenance intervals so they can check the stuff I might miss but I have found they say I need to do certain things that I had already just done to my car or they say I need new tires when they have 40k miles on them and the tread warranty is for 60k. The real kicker is I keep my interior and engine bay spotless as well as a couple simple modifications that I did myself and they think they can pull fast ones on me. Also the wait time is usually like 2 hours for a rotation and oil change. That's insane, if I had a lift it would be done in 30 minutes. So does anyone know of a reputable shop in the mid Atlantic that will use oem fluids and parts. I'm coming up on a coolant drain and a spark plug change and rather them do it cause it took me a few hours to do plugs myself. I have a 3.6r and the back two plugs are a b-otch. If someone has a recommendation for 3.6r plug removal and install of what tools they use would help. I rather buy tools and do it myself than pay $100/hour for a shop to maybe not do it right. Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk

So, I do not have a cvt in my '11 legacy 3.6r but I have reset my transmission b4. So I got my legacy @ about 47k miles and now it is at 95k. I do all the maintenance on it and the only problem I have had was over time my transmission started to shift hard from first to second and second to third. Well I thought my tranny was starting to go because subaru trans are known to be horrible except the 6mt. Once I started noticing it I replaced the transmission fluid and differentials even sooner than the manual says to. Well that didn't help. So litteraly the other day I stumbled upon something about a TCU reset because the transmission can learn bad habits over time. I did the reset on my own and now it rides like it is brand spanking new. I have a feeling it was because I was driving in Philly where it was a lot of rapid stop and go traffic and back at home I mainly drive 60mph highway for miles at a time so it's a little different type of driving. All I did was: 1) Turn the car on 2) turn off anything with power (a.c., lights, GPS plugs, chargers) 3)turn off car 4)turn ignition to on position but not running 5)press gas pedal all the way down for 35 secs 6)turn car off and release gas pedal after 7) let sit for 2 minutes 8) proceed to drive as normal I kid you not, I was really starting to hate this transmission issue especially being I do the maintenance to the t and most of the time earlier than I'm supposed to but now I'm back to loving it like the day I got it. I'm not sure if this procedure works for the CVT but it seemed to work for me. Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk