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curtainsofdeath

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  • Location
    Indiana
  • Car
    2006 Legacy GT
  • Interests
    Building things.
  • Occupation
    Chemical Engineer

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  1. Thanks for the answers, Deer Killer. I actually bought a new set of hex-head flywheel bolts. I've worked with the XZN/Ribe/Torx/Torx+ bolts before and and am not a fan. I think they're probably great for the assembly line in the factory, but not so great for R&R in an application. By a quick of fate, I actually bought the crank-stop tool on ebay for 4.50.
  2. Great set of videos scruit; I have watched them many times. I am actually changing from a DMFW to a SMFW and it looks like the SMFW is shallower than the DMFW. Does anybody have any guidance as to what adjustments need to be made in the clutch travel after I install the clutch? Also, I am a little worried about stripping out a FW bolt or breaking one off. I do have the Torx+50 bit, but is there anything that I can do to minimize the propensity for snapping off a bolt head or stripping one out? One final question: in the shop manual that I have, it tells me that I need to find the "0" mark on the FW and the "0" mark on the PP and ensure that they are at least 120deg out of alignment. My PP doesn't seem to have one of these marks. How bad is it if these "0" marks are not lined up exactly? I am new to the forum and would appreciate any information that anyone can provide on these questions. Hopefully, I'll be able to help others out on here in the future. Thanks
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