Soarer

Looking for a clean hatch for a 2005 Legacy wagon in Atlantic Blue Pearl within 150 miles of 06810.

No EJ255 motor I’ve ever seen has that round gasket. I believe the black rtv is the one for extra oily areas so use that.

It’s very difficult to bleed a slave cylinder in the car. Try taking it out as a unit with line and master and bench bleed it. That way you can get the bleed nipples at the highest point to allow the bubbles to work their way out. From your symptoms it sounds like there’s air in the line. The pedal should feel about 10% firmer than the regular 5sp clutch pedal and grab at the same spot.

I'm having this problem too. Just took tons of pics for a classified ad on my iPhone 7 and they won't upload. Also, I have the "Live" option in the camera app turned off. Is there a fix for this yet? Oh, and why is legacygt.com so opposed to outside pic hosting?

I'd bet your issue has nothing to do with your torque specs. The fact that you're using a torque wrench puts you way ahead of most clutch changers. My first guess is that you're having a throw out bearing/pressure plate finger issue. If you're slipping, then your clutch is slipping between your pressure plate and flywheel. We can confidently say that your flywheel is still bolted to your crank so I'd look for an issue with the clutch form before I pulled the transmission. Pull the slave cylinder and the fork lever plug and rod first to examine the clutch fork. You'll have to pull all this stuff anyway to remove the trans. Pull the clutch fork boot off and shine a flashlight down into the bellhousing to see if anything obvious comes up. Also, take a look at the flywheel cover on the bottom of the trans for any debris that may have gotten stuck in there or broken off of the clutch/pp. Those would be the first steps I would take before pulling the trans. Also, how is your pedal feel since is "popped"?

What wheels are you running here? Size and offset? Looks fantastic.

I'm gonna get back under there this weekend and see what I can see. I had an issue before with my downpipe hitting the trans crossmember because my Megan Racing up pipe was too long so I replaced it with an Invidia. I guess when you piece together all these aftermarket parts, it's no surprise that everything doesn't line up just right.

Question for a 6sp swap guru..... I swapped a v7 6sp into my 05 LGT wagon. It's all in there and working great. The issue I'm having is with my exhaust. I've got an Invidia up pipe, Invidia catless downpipe, BNR 18G turbo and an SPT catback exhaust (v2 I believe). At the flange where the downpipe meets the catback exhaust, that's the 3" two bolt flange, I have a leak. The flanges do not meet up flush. It's like the downpipe is pitched downward creating a gap on the bottom of the flange. I tried massaging the catback flange and using multiple gaskets but it won't seal. I'm wondering if I have the wrong combination of crossmember or trans mounts. I am a 6sp mount from an STi and the trans crossmember from my LGT... if my memory is correct. Has anyone else ran into this issue? Possible solutions? I'm trying to avoid cutting and welding.

Has anyone ran into this problem.. My Invidia catless downpipe does not meet up with my SPT exhaust correctly. I'm getting a big leak around the top of the two flanges. I am running a BNR 18g, Invidia uppipe, OEM legacy gt motor mounts and a v7 impreza STi trans mount. My SPT exhaust is hanging from OEM rubber hangers. I'm wondering if the Spec B trans mount is a bit thinner than the STi one which would drop the rear of the trans a little bit and line up the flanges.

Did they tell you what didn't fit? I swapped a 6sp in my car and used a stock STi 6sp shifter and bought the two rods as directed by this thread. One thing that I didn't find in this thread (it may very well be in here somewhere) is that the reverse lockout cable is not long enough on the stock STi shifter. I had to make an extension to get it to work. I say this because you said that the shop said that it "didn't work" but you didn't mention exactly what didn't work. Maybe the rods are fine and the lockout cable is what's not working. Also, if you purchased the spec b rods and the shifter is what's unknown, just buy a used 6sp shifter. They're relatively cheap and if that solves your problem, then it's worth it. We KNOW that a stock 02-07 STi shifter with spec b rods works in our cars.

Just hit 140k on the chassis. Have just over 800 on the new ej257 block. Running great. No CELs! Have a small oil leak to sort out but not a big deal. Can't wait to tune this thing for power in a few hundred more miles.

Here's the process I used that made this task bearable: (directions are for right side valve cover) A few notes.... While you're in there, you may want to replace your spark plugs. Tools and supplies needed: Floor jack, jack stands (2), hockey pucks (2), 14mm 3/8" drive socket, 3/8" drive universal joint, 3/8" drive extension, 3/8" drive ratchet, 14mm deep socket, 12mm 1/4" drive socket, 1/4" drive ratchet, 10mm 1/4" drive socket, 10mm combination wrench (gearwrench preferably), flathead screwdriver, razor blade, Fujibond or Ultrablack RTV sealant, new valve cover gaskets and spark plug hole gaskets, brake cleaner, oil drain pan, 2' of aluminum foil, pliers, scotchbrite pad, ATF fluid for power steering, oil, patience. 1. Remove engine cover 2. Disconnect MAF 3. Remove airbox or intake (whichever you have) 4. Disconnect power steering hose from reservoir leaving the rubber connecting hose on the reservoir. Take a 1 qt yogurt container, put a small hole near the rim, run a zip tie through and secure the container to the PS res bracket to catch the PS fluid. 5. Jack up front of car but not too high as you'll still need your jack to lift the motor up in a minute. 6. Remove underbody engine cover. 7. Loosen left motor mount about 6 turns but do nor remove nut. 8. Remove right motor mount nut and washer. 9. Loosen transmission mount nuts about 8 turns. 10. Jack up the right side of the motor carefully. Put a block of wood or stack two hockey pucks on the top of your jack and push against the bolt that holds the bottom of the heat shield to the exhaust manifold under the right head. Lift the motor slowly and be careful not to lift too far. When you start to feel some resistance, back of a hair so you're not compressing the motor into the tunnel. 11. Remove the valve cover vent/equalization hoses from the top of the valve cover. Fold them up and out of the way. 12. Unplug the coil packs and pull the zip tie style out of the valve cover. Fold the wires up and out of the way. 13. Remove the coil packs. 14. Place aluminum foil around your up pipe and on top of your exhaust manifold to prevent oil from soaking it when you pull the valve cover. 15. Place an oil catch pan under the right side of the motor. 16. Remove the valve cover bolts. 17. Remove the valve cover. 18. Clean the mating surface of the head. This needs to have ALL gasket maker/RTV/Fujibond removed. It's got to be SPOTLESS. Pull off the big chunks with your hand. Carefully use a razor blade to cut off as much as you can being sure not to score the soft aluminum mating surface. Use a Scotch pad to remove the rest of the gunk. 19. With a clean rag or paper towel soak up any oil that has collected in the bottom of the head. You don't want this dripping on the mating surface before you apply your new RTV. 20. Clean up your valve cover. Carefully clean the channel where the gasket sits. Get it spotless. Spray down the inside and outside of the valve cover with brake cleaner. 21. Rest your new gasket and spark plug hole gaskets in the valve cover channels. 22. Spray some brake cleaner on a clean rag and wipe down the mating surface on the head. Check for any bits of old sealant that may have fallen behind the cam shaft or along the bottom of the head. 23. Apply RTV Ultra Black or Fujibond across the half moon gaskets on the back of the head, along the bottom mating surface, up the cam cap and on the top of the cam cap where it changes elevation. Some spots are hard to reach so you can put a small dap of sealant on your finger and apply it where needed. The most important spots are along the half moons, the corners where the cam cap meets the head and along any elevation changes on the cam caps. 24. Carefully slide your valve cover into place making sure that you didn't unseat your gaskets anywhere. 25. Install your valve cover bolts hand tight. Use a 10mm socket and turn it by hand without the ratchet handle. Be sure to follow the tightening alphabetical sequence shown in the pic above. 26. Let the sealant cure for at least one hour. 27. Tighten the valve cover bolts a little at a time in the alphabetical sequence shown above. You should go around two or three times in the sequence until you feel the bolts bottom out against the head. Tighten to 4.7 ft/lbs or 56 inch/lbs using a torque wrench. I used a 1/4" drive bar style torque wrench. I couldn't get it on one or two of the hard to reach bolts so I had to guess at it using a combination wrench. You'll feel when the bolt has compressed the rubber gasket and bottoms out against the head mating surface. You only want to snug it up a hair more at that point. 28. If you can, leave the car overnight to let the sealant fully cure. 29. Install your coil packs and plug them in making sure to reattach your oxygen sensor wire bracket to the rear coil pack. 30. Reconnect your vent/equalization hoses. 31. Lower the motor off the jack. 32. Tighten your left motor mount and reinstall your left motor mount nut and washer. Torque to spec. 33. Tighten your trans mount nuts. Torque to spec. 34. Remove your PS fluid catch container. 35. Reconnect your PS hose. 36. Top off your PS res to the middle line. 37. Install your airbox/intake. 38. Reconnect MAF sensor. 39. Check your oil. 40. Start car and check for obvious leaks. 41. If no leaks, remove aluminum foil from up pipe and exhaust manifold. 42. Liberally spray down anywhere that has oil on it with brake cleaner both old black gunky oil and fresh oil. Wipe it down and get it as clean as you can. 43. Install lower engine cover. 44. Install top engine cover. 45. Test drive car. 46. Check/top off engine oil and PS fluid. 47. Drink 100 beers. After you've got all this done, you'll probably have some residual oil on your exhaust that's going to smoke as it burns off. Drive the car for a day or two and then get back under there to inspect if you got the job done right. Look for any fresh clean oil coming off the bottom of the head.

What an adventure I had getting this done right! When I redid the gaskets, even though I was very, very careful, I managed to let the bottom of the right side gasket get hung up on a cam journal cap when installing. I was greeted with a heavy flow of oil soaking my up pipe and exhaust manifold when I got everything back together and started it up. Not fun! So, apart everything had to come again.

Soooo.... I installed new valve cover gaskets on both sides when I put together my motor (new shortblock). So, I was able to do everything without the encumbrance of working against the frame rails with the motor in the car. I did it exactly as instructed however, both sides are leaking. On the front of the bottom of each head, there's an "L" shaped tang. The oil is dripping off of this and onto the exhaust. It's very frustrating! Here's a pic of where the oil is dripping off of my motor. I'm gonna remove, clean up, seal and replace them again this weekend. Hopefully I'll get it this time.

Here is the FSM instructions: