KoukiS14

That would be nice, but there's no suction on the return line. All of the fluid is being pushed, rather than sucked.

Damn, that doesn't sound good. Have you bothered to try disconnecting the battery for a while? It can't hurt. I wonder if FreeSSM is specifically compatible with your 2010's TCU and the TCU clear operation. Possibly a visit to a dealer could clear the code, or they could reflash the TCU.

I'll add that the proper way to monitor the ATF temp on a 5EAT is via the internal trans temp sensors using the OBD port. That gives accurate, in-situ ATF fluid temps from the bowels of the beast. An external gauge will only be relative to the real deal in the trans, showing you that your ATF is being nicely cooled, or not, by whatever cooling setup you have. But once that fluid is back in the pan, it's coming up to cooking temps nice and quick. Sous vide, anyone? If you want an external gauge, then it should be plumbed in before the cooler, as close to the transmission as possible to more accurately monitor the actual ATF temps within the trans. What's important in a cooler is that it cool an adequate amount when necessary. What's an adequate amount? As David illustrated, it depends on the car, the driver, and the conditions. I've got lots of lady friends with OBXTs that will never need more than stock cooling. Preventing long term fluid overheating is what's paramount. It really doesn't take too many incidents of overheating even quality ATF to severely degrade it. Any stock 5EAT with decent power in front of it is capable of toasting its fluid, even with as much cooling as you can throw at it. Looking at scorched blue transmission steels and clutch packs reveals that's the most dangerous heat source from the ATF's perspective: extreme pressure, sheering, and heat generating friction, with the fluid laid out nice and thin and at its most vulnerable. Built 5EATs and those with VB mods will generate less heat internally than a stock 5EAT. In fact, a VB upgrade is probably the best "cooling" solution for a 5EAT, but I don't think you can put too big a cooler in place, especially if you use a thermostat with it. My testing shows that even with a large Hayden 678 as the only cooler, temps can still linger over 200* for a prolonged period of time in summer heat after having beat on the car.

Thanks, Frank. Didn't have time to look that up. Eagerly awaiting a hitch for my wagon BTW, I shattered my center diff gears boost launching with 700 lbs. of carpet in the back the other morning. Swapped it with spares that day. Bushings seemed fine, but I haven't pressed them out yet. Running a stock setup for the moment Oh, and the center diff clutches were BURNT!!! All four black, with moderate cracking on the paper friction surfaces. I was really surprised to see that with only 15,000 miles on them.The damn frictions in the diff are the tiniest things from the old 4EAT. Of course, that's daily multiple low boost launches to scoot ahead of traffic, cornering under power as well as braking. I'm hard on my cars. ;-) If they last at all they're worthy. The 5EAT is fairly worthy. Cryo and a surface treatment on the next set of sun/planetaries going into mine. Agreed. Me too. Although it drops it only about 6%, or 200 RPM at 75, but that's not bad. I've briefly started looking at alternate 1-5 gear ratios for the 5EAT by swapping in internals from other Jatco based transmissions. A super tall 5th would be nice, with low and tight 1-3. Fast off the line, GTR style, with stretched out taller gears for better freeway mileage and/or higher top speed.

The R&P are different ratios between the manuals and the automatics.

Definitely not your center diff, which is only in use when turning. I'd vote for wheel bearing. I don't think I've heard of the diff gears making noise before failure. Only after. Then it's a noise that indicates that something's obviously wrong. Only doesn't upshift manually properly from the wheel paddles, or doesn't upshift properly in normal drive or sport mode as well? If it's just manually from the paddles, that does sound like faulty electrics there. The lack of downshift to second is manual or auto mode? What on earth do you mean by the cooler being blocked off? Removed from the cooling loop? If you block that loop, that's not a good thing. Not throwing a code is good. Seems like the TCU keeps pretty good tabs on the trans, so if it was a VB issue or the actual vs. selected gear was different, it would let you know.

Yeah, 30,000 miles is low mileage. I've reconsidered selling just the clutch packs though and I'm only going to be offering the full kits. It adds a little to the overall price, but I think if you've got the trans out, you might as well do the full rebuild. The "core" is the three clutch packs that require machining to be refit with extra high capacity clutch pairs. Those would be the input, direct and hi/lo/reverse clutch packs. Those are done on an exchange basis as part of the kit, and the $900 covers the cost of those in case they aren't returned.

Yeah, the internals are mostly interchangeable amongst the years, so the build kit will work for 2008+ 5EATs.

I've gotten used to the sound of Wilwoods. To me they sound like brakes that work. If someone hears them and throws a glance in traffic, they can't help but take a deeper look and realize the same thing. Also, the aluminum bracket extenders definitely contribute to the whole thing ringing and squealing. Mostly it's all of the square edges in the pads and calipers.

I've pretty well convinced myself that I'm taking the clutch pack kit out of the equation and offering just the full rebuild kits. There hasn't been much demand, so it's build to order at the moment. Two weeks lead time is probably realistic at the moment. I just moved and I'm settling into new shop space. Once settled in, I hope to keep one or two kits stocked for quick shipment.

Considering that the trans pump is capable of generating several hundred psi, I'm sure any restrictions in the cooling loop are inconsequential. I seem to remember reading that typical cooling loop pressures are around 20 psi, give or take 10 psi, depending on the vehicle.

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The ACME Transmissions Subaru 5EAT Clutch Pack Kits and Rebuild Kits are built with the best components available for the 5EAT transmission. Premium frictions and steels are used throughout, with additional clutches added to the major clutch packs responsible for transferring power under high loads in forward gears. This results in additional torque capacity and longevity to solve the problems associated with increased power output from modified engines. Some quick specs: 33% more surface area on input clutch (4th & 5th gears) 60% more surface area on direct clutch (2nd, 3rd, & 4th gears) 25% more surface area on hi/lo/rev with Penultimate (3rd, 4th and 5th gears) 50% more surface area on hi/lo/rev with Pinnacle (3rd, 4th and 5th gears) 50% more surface area on front brake with Pinnacle (3rd and 5th gears) Alto Red Eagle frictions Input Direct Hi/Lo/Rev Forward Low coast Alto high energy graphite clutches Reverse Front brake Alto Kolene treated steels Input Direct Transfer WPC treated steels Pinnacle Hi/Lo/Rev Pinnacle front brake Premium Alto or Raybestos steels are used throughout in the remaining clutch packs, and Alto high energy graphite clutches are used in the front brake and reverse clutches, where Alto Red Eagles are not available. ACME Transmissions Subaru 5EAT Clutch Pack Kits ACME Transmissions Subaru 5EAT Pinnacle Clutch Pack Kit - $1,900 ACME Transmissions Subaru 5EAT Penultimate Clutch Pack Kit - $1,500 ACME Transmissions Subaru 5EAT Rebuild Kits ACME Transmissions Subaru 5EAT Pinnacle Rebuild Kit - $2,150 ACME Transmissions Subaru 5EAT Penultimate Rebuild Kit - $1,750 Core costs - $900 Any kit incurs a $900 core cost. The core cost is a depreciating refund deposit to cover the clutch pack cores that will ship to you. Ship your useable condition cores back in 1-30 days, and you get the full $900 back. 31-60 days, and you get $600 back. 61+ days, and you get $300 back. What’s the difference between the Clutch Pack Kit and the Rebuild Kit? The key difference is that the Rebuild Kit contains the frictions and steels for the reverse, forward, low coast and transfer case clutch packs in addition to the parts contained in the Clutch Pack Kit. Either kit contains a full transmission overhaul kit. An overhaul kit is transmission industry lingo for the soft parts of a trans rebuild kit. The seals, sealing rings, gaskets, o-rings, etc. The Clutch Pack Kit is intended for a healthy, low mileage transmission, specifically where a user might intend to do the install themselves and doesn't have the specialized tools for a full transmission rebuild. The Clutch Pack Kit contains all the parts to freshen up the clutch packs in the front of the transmission, and "overhaul" the remainder of the transmission. The clutch pack kits include a full overhaul kit for the 5EAT. That means all seals, sealing rings, gaskets, etc. that are needed to freshen up the trans. Essentially all soft parts, plus rebuild parts for the front brake and fully assembled input, direct and hi/lo/rev clutch packs. It does not include frictions or steels for any of the other clutch pack sets besides the front brake, input, direct, and hi/lo/rev. The Rebuild Kit is intended for a local shop to fully rebuild the transmission, not just the "front half" which is essentially what the Clutch Pack Kit does. Of course, if an end user is capable and has the correct tools, there's nothing to prevent them from rebuilding their own transmission. I would recommend the Rebuild Kit option if you're capable of doing a full trans rebuild, if a shop is doing the build for you, if the trans isn't currently perfectly healthy, or is over 100,000 miles. The Rebuild Kit contains all the parts to rebuild the transmission. Exceptions would be low wear parts that are typically only replaced as necessary, including bushings, bearings and pump gears. Those parts are available and stocked by ACME Transmission, and can be shipped via expedited means if the parts are found to be necessary. Please contact me for details. What’s the difference between the Pinnacle kit and the Penultimate kit? The Pinnacle Clutch Pack kit is ACME Transmission’s top of the line offering, while the Penultimate kit is just a notch below it. The Pinnacle kit has a 6 pair hi/lo/rev clutch pack with custom thickness, WPC treated steels, whereas the Penultimate kit has a 5 pair hi/lo/rev clutch pack with premium Raybestos steels. The other difference is in the front brake, where the Pinnacle kit has 3 pairs with custom thickness, WPC treated steels, versus the stock 2 pair setup using premium Raybestos steels in the Penultimate. The extra clutch pairs and WPC treated steels in the front brake and hi/lo/rev clutches of the Pinnacle kit provide greater torque capacity and longevity in gears 3 through 5. Since those gears are the most heavily loaded, the Pinnacle kit is the choice for big power cars intending to run at high speeds. With all of that said, a VB upgrade and bronze diff bushings are highly recommended if you don't already have those items. They'll contributed significantly to the longevity and enjoyment of the transmission, and are "since you're there" type items. Note that pricing does not include shipping. Availability is limited at the moment. I'll have a Pinnacle kit available the week of 7/8/13, then I'll be waiting on clutch pack cores as well as a large batch of custom steels before the next kits are ready to go. ETA is roughly before the end of the month. Just so you all know, this is my pet project and side gig. I'm a full time IT consultant by day. I'll do my best to keep the supply of these catching up with demand. Funding is the major issue at the moment, but initial monies are all rolling back into the project for the sake of expansion, so hopefully availability will improve as time goes on.